Hello Johnny!
I hope you're well today, and not freezing the way we are in Ohio!
It took a little telephoning and a trip to the West End of town, but I
did lay hands on a tube of the Graham Webb product. I also got a ton
of great advice from a well respected hair stylist who insisted that I
pass a few things on to you. I'll get to those in just a bit. First,
the ingredient lists:
Clairol Renewal 5x Conditioner, Replenishing for Dry/Damaged Hair:
Water, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Esters, Behentrimonium Chloride,
Panthenol, Vaccinium Myrtillus Extract, Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar
Cane) Extract, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon)
Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract,
Hydrolyzed Elastin, Retinyl Palmitate, Acer Saccharinum (Sugar Maple)
Extract, Linoleic Acid, Amodimethicone, Cetrimonium Chloride,
Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone Copolyol,
Citric Acid, PEG 35 Castor Oil, Fragrance, Trideceth 12, Polysorbate
20, Disodium EDTA, Phytantriol, Sodium PCA, Methylparaben,
Propylparaben, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone
Graham Webb Vivid Color Color Locking Conditioner:
Water, Cetearyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Methysulfate, Dimethicone,
Propylene Glycol, Aloe Extract, Chamomile Extract, Rosemary Extract,
Sage Extract, Symphytum Extract, Panthenol, Allantoin, Hydrolized
Wheat Protein, Tocopheryl Acetate, Wheat Amino Acids, Hydrolized Silk,
Stearalkonium Chloride, Trimethylsilylaodimethicone, Hydroxycellulose,
Isolaurethe-6, Octoxynol-40, PEG-8/SMDI Copolymer, PPG-12 SMDI
Copolymer, Ethyhexl Methlylcinnamate, Myristyl Alcohol, Citric Acid,
Tetrasodium EDTA, Benzophenone-4, Methylparaben,
Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone, Fragrance.
These are the ingredients we've already discussed:
Water
Panthenol
Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar Cane) Extract
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Fruit Extract
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract
Hydrolyzed Elastin
Retinyl Palmitate
Acer Saccharinum (Sugar Maple) Extract
Dimethicone Copolyol
Citric Acid,
PEG 35 Castor Oil
Fragrance
Polysorbate 20
Disodium EDTA
Methylparaben,
Propylparaben
Methylchloroisothiazolinone
Methylisothiazolinone
Dimethicone
Propylene Glycol
Vaccinium Myrtillus Extract (Bilberry)
Aloe Extract
Chamomile Extract
Symphytum (Comfrey) Extract
Rosemary Extract
Sage Extract
Tocopheryl Acetate
Myristyl Alcohol
Citric Acid
Tetrasodium EDTA
If you want to review the definitions and uses of any of these
ingredients, you can find them on the questions I've answered for you
over the past few days:
Compare Chemicals In Shampoos
http://answers.google.com/answers/main?cmd=threadview&id=146590
Tea Tree
http://answers.google.com/answers/main?cmd=threadview&id=147124
American Crew
http://answers.google.com/answers/main?cmd=threadview&id=147473
Both Conditioners contain Cetearyl Alcohol, sometimes also called
Ceterostearyl Alcohol. This is an emulsifier – a substance which
helps the other ingredients blend and stay together.
Cetearyl Alcohol
http://www.totalskincare.com/library/totalskincare_c_cetearyl-alcohol.html
The remaining ingredients for each product follow:
Clairol Renewal 5x Conditioner, Replenishing for Dry/Damaged Hair:
**Cetyl Esters – lubricating agent derived from esters, or products
synthesized from the reaction of acids and alcohol. These are what
make the conditioner slippery.
About Esters
http://www.hatcocorporation.com/pages/about_esters.html
**Behentrimonium Chloride - an anti-static agent and surfactant
Inventory of Ingredients Used In Cosmetics
http://dg3.eudra.org/F3/inci/inciabe.htm
**Amodimethicone – a silicone additive, used to make hair feel smooth
and silky. A conditioning agent.
“Cones”
http://www.angelfire.com/empire/long_hair_community/cone.html
**Cetrimonium Chloride – a more water soluble conditioning agent
Make Your Own Cosmetics Glossary
http://www.makingcosmetics.com/makingcosmetics/glossary/03_glossary_c.html
**Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine – a derivative of stearic acid.
“A water-soluble derivative of stearic acid. Possesses unique
properties of closing hair cuticles over a wide range of pH.”
Make Your Own Cosmetics Glossary
http://www.makingcosmetics.com/makingcosmetics/glossary/19_glossary_s.html
**Cyclomethicone – a silicone derivative. Adds shine and body.
“Adds luster and sheen and emollients benefits, used as a carrier for
other ingredients.”
Hair Products Ingredients
http://www.fredonline.co.uk/ingredientlist.htm
**Trideceth 12 – an anti-buildup agent. Slightly weakens silicone
additives to help prevent build-up
“Cones”
http://www.angelfire.com/empire/long_hair_community/cone.html
**Phytantriol – encourages moisture retention.
“Phytantriol's value has been demonstrated through its ability to
increase moisture retention.”
BASF – Cosmetic Ingredients
http://www.basf.com/businesses/consumer/cosmeticingredients/html/pr980712.html
**Sodium PCA – a naturally occurring humectant
“Occurs naturally in human skin and is responsible for binding
moisture to the cells. Highly water-absorbent, holding several times
its weight in water, which makes it an excellent humectant.”
Make Your Own Cosmetics Glossary
http://www.makingcosmetics.com/makingcosmetics/glossary/19_glossary_s.html
Graham Webb Vivid Color Color Locking Conditioner:
**Behentrimonium Methysulfate – an anti-static agent and surfactant
Inventory of Ingredients Used In Cosmetics
http://dg3.eudra.org/F3/inci/inciabe.htm
** Wheat Amino Acids – protein building blocks, derived from wheat.
Helps strengthen hair and hold in vitamins.
**Hydrolized Silk – silk. Used to help make hair stronger and more
resilient.
**Stearalkonium Chloride – an antistatic agent
Make Your Own Cosmetics Glossary
http://www.makingcosmetics.com/makingcosmetics/glossary/19_glossary_s.html
**Trimethylsilylaodimethicone – a silicone derivative. A conditioning
agent, lends shine and “slipperyness”
“This branched chain silicone fluid gives excellent wet and dry
combing and is available in emulsion form, greatly simplifying its
incorporation into hair conditioning products. The hair serums are
generally solutions of dimethicone or dimethiconol in cyclomethicone,
the latter reducing product viscosity and improving spreadability
while the dimethicone or dimethiconol is deposited on the hair shaft
as a thin film, giving an unique feel of slip and smoothness and
conferring a high gloss.”
Advances In The Use Of Silicones In Cosmetics
http://www.connock.co.uk/Article%20-%20Silicones.htm
**Hydroxycellulose – a polymer, used as a thickening agent. Coats the
hair shaft.
Make Your Own Cosmetics Glossary
http://www.makingcosmetics.com/makingcosmetics/glossary/08_glossary_h.html
**Isolaurethe-6 – an emulsifier
Inventory of Ingredients Used In Cosmetics
http://dg3.eudra.org/F3/inci/inciais.htm
**Octoxynol-40 – an emulsifier and surfactant
Inventory of Ingredients Used In Cosmetics
http://dg3.eudra.org/F3/inci/inciaoc.htm
**PEG-8/SMDI Copolymer, PPG-12 SMDI Copolymer – “film formers”. Coat
and protect the hair shaft.
Inventory of Ingredients Used in Cosmetics
http://dg3.eudra.org/F3/inci/incif10.htm
**Ethyhexl Methlylcinnamate – a sunscreen
Chembytes eZine
http://www.chemsoc.org/chembytes/ezine/2001/woodruff_jul01.htm
**Benzophenone-4 – a sunscreen
Trevor Sorbie Professional
http://www.jtspeaks.com/sorbie5.html
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Both conditioners are fairly similar in composition.
The Graham Webb product uses a different combination of herbal
extracts (chamomile, rosemary, sage and comfrey) for their scalp
soothing effects and their value as aromatics (they make the product
smell very pleasing and soothing).
The Clairol product makes liberal use of citrus extracts, for their
“shine” properties and also for their aromatic value. Where the
Graham Webb product has a lush, “green” or forest-y scent, the Clairol
product smells citrusy and somewhat exotic. These aren’t going to
affect the performance of the conditioners, just the way you feel when
you smell them. This would come down to personal choice.
Both appear to offer the same conditioning and moisturizing
properties, sharing many ingredients in common. Personally, I’d give
a very slight edge to the Graham Webb product due to the extra
“protectors”, such as silk, hydroxycellulose, sunscreens and the
various copolymers. Based on what I learned from Steve, however, I’d
recommend that you avoid it. More on that in a minute.
Overall verdict: Tie. If you plan to be out in the sun for a long
while, or color your hair, the Graham Webb may be more suitable, but
only for occasional use. If you’re not going to color your hair or
otherwise mistreat it, you’re fine with the Clairol.
To answer the rest of your question, yes, conditioners can and do
build up on your hair and can sometimes plug up the follicles. Steve
at Artistic Creations said that if you regularly use products that are
supposed “volumize” or “thicken” your hair, you’re flirting with build
up. They’re fine for occasional use, but you’re better off sticking
with something lightweight.
Steve said that the best thing for you to do to get your hair and
scalp difficulties straightened around is to consult with a
professional hair stylist. A stylist can examine your hair and scalp
and help you devise a plan to care for your hair; stylists are very
well suited to recommend helpful products for you or point you in the
direction of a good dermatologist if your hair products are irritating
your scalp. He said that above all else, you really need to be very
careful with your Rogaine dosages – too much can *permanently damage*
your hair follicles, which is exactly the opposite of what you want –
so follow your Rogaine instructions to the letter.
He also gave me a nifty little book published by Nioxin Research
Laboratories, in Atlanta, GA. It’s called “An Educated Look into the
Causes of Hair Loss”. This 28 page guide explores the most common
forms and causes of hair loss, and discusses treatments, including
alternatives to Rogaine. A tip from pages 24– 25: “You need to
select cleansers, conditioners, treatments, supplements and styling
products that contain bionutrients like vitamins, proteins and amino
acids. These provide the nourishment living hair and skin need to be
healthy. Avoid products with sticky animal proteins, polymers,
plastics, resins, alcohol, or that claim to “volumize” the hair. They
may help you achieve the look you seek, but they can also build up on
the scalp and block the hair follicle.”
An Educated Look into the Causes of Hair Loss – pp.24 –25
Nioxin Research Laboratories, 2001
You can call Nioxin for a free copy of this book at 1-800-628-9890 or
visit their website:
Nioxin
http://www.nioxin.com
The book also includes some hair loss resources which you might find
helpful:
The National Alopecia Areata Foundation
710 C Street, Suite 11
San Rafael, CA, 94901
(415) 456-4644
The American Hair Loss Council
http://www.ahlc.org
1-888-873-9719
I hope the information I’ve gathered here is helpful to you! If I can
be of further assistance, please don’t hesitate to ask for
clarification. I’ll do everything I can to help you out!
-- Missy
Search terms: Listed ingredients, in-person consultation with
licensed stylist. |
Clarification of Answer by
missy-ga
on
25 Jan 2003 18:30 PST
Evenin', Johnny! I hope you're enjoying your Saturday!
I've assembled a short list of very good, goop-free (no animal
proteins and no plasticizers!) lightweight conditioners for you to
have a look at. Each one is linked to its ingredient list at
Drugstore.com, and includes a brief description. Of the seven listed,
I've used all but the EO and the ABBA myself, and have been happy with
the overall performance of all of them.
** Kiss My Face Aromatherapeutic Conditioner, Light Weight**
Certified organic blend of Lavender, Hibiscus, Horsetail, Rose Hips,
Red Raspberry and Thyme. Oils of Grapefruit, Jojoba, Lemongrass and
Lemon. Also contains wheat proteins, wheat amino acids, Panthenol
(B5) and Vitamin E.
Kiss My Face Aromatherapeutic Conditioner, Light Weight
http://www.drugstore.com/products/prod.asp?pid=70279
** Aveda Shampure Conditioner**
100% Botanical formula. Very light, non drying, no build up.
Contains extracts of lavender, peppermint, rosemary. Also contains
brazil nut proteins, wheat proteins and wheat amino acids.
Aveda Shampure Conditioner
http://www.drugstore.com/products/prod.asp?pid=75194&catid=29177
**Aussie Hair Salad**
Contains extracts of lettuce, carrot, tomato, corn, garlic, lemon,
pineapple and peppermint. Adds shine and moisturizes, without
buildup.
Aussie Hair Salad
http://www.drugstore.com/products/prod.asp?pid=26984&catid=10335
**EO Hair Repair Conditioner**
100% Botanical formula. Light and non drying, no build up. Nourishes
and protects with extracts of Horsetail, Aloe, Hops, White Ginger,
Wild Cherry Bark and Nettle. Also contains Canola Oil, Vegetable
Glycerin, Safflower Oil, Mango Seed Oil, Wheat Amino Acids, and
Vitamin A.
EO Hair Repair Conditioner
http://www.drugstore.com/products/prod.asp?pid=73001&catid=10329
**ABBA TruMint Light Daily Conditioner**
Extracts of Blue Malva, rosemary, sage, and balm mint. Also contains
Panthenol (vitamin B5), and hydrolyzed wheat proteins.
ABBA TruMint Light Daily Conditioner
http://www.drugstore.com/products/prod.asp?pid=46855&catid=11938
** Suave Professionals – Awaphui**
Light and versatile – rinse it out or leave it in! No build up.
Contains Algae, Rosemary, Wheat Germ Oil, Jojoba Oil, Henna, White
Ginger (Awapuhi), Aloe and Hair Keratin Amino Acids. Even better, if
you don’t like it, Suave will refund 100% of the purchase price.
Suave Professionals – Awaphui
http://www.drugstore.com/products/prod.asp?pid=27079&catid=10327
** Citre Shine - Daily Revitalize Conditioner**
Very light, pleasant smell, no buildup. Contains extracts of lime,
tangerine and grapefruit, as well as cottonseed oil, wheat proteins,
wheat amino acids, beta carotene and panthenol (B5).
Citre Shine - Daily Revitalize Conditioner
http://www.drugstore.com/products/prod.asp?pid=76662&catid=10327
If you're looking to make a trial run of a couple, I highly recommend
the Kiss My Face and Aveda products - they're 100% plant products,
very light and easy to obtain. Or, if you're interested in a more
in-depth comparison, choose two that you'd like to have compared, and
I'll go through the ingredients for you.
Due to family commitments this weekend, I'll be away from my desk
until Monday morning. If you have any questions about this list or
want a couple compared, please feel free to ask for a clarification,
and I'll take care of it as soon as I return to my desk on Monday.
Have a terrific weekend!
--Missy
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