Clarification of Answer by
clouseau-ga
on
13 Mar 2003 11:09 PST
Hello again,
FlooringSlate.net says:
What can set off a room more dramatically than tile-on floors of
course, but up walls, around windows and doors-wherever ceramics can
go, including some places you haven't thought about. Using ordinary
tools and keeping special purchases to a minimum, you can do your own
tiling of durable and beautiful spaces that are inexpensive and simple
to install. It's easy to learn the various categories and types of
tile, including different glazes, hardness, and grades, for both field
and trim. The starting-out tools and techniques sections cover
measuring and marking, cutting, grouts, adhesives, and substrate
materials. The come considerations of joints, moisture barriers, and
setting techniques, from mixing and applying the thin set, to mixing
and spreading the adhesive, followed by setting times and clean-up
procedures.
They recommend this book:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0806961155/slatevalleyco-20/102-1697660-5444126
Available at Amazon for only 12.57
Rock Unique has an interesting page with some tips on slate on walls:
http://www.rock-unique.com/chancery_court_health_spa.htm
There is a question posted here:
http://www.ceramic-tile.com/tileman.htm?month=10&year=2002
Dear Tile Man! 1. You are the best. 2. I searched archives and still
have ??? 3. I would like to use slate tile on the walls in the alcove
for commercial gas stove (Viking). (a) What adhesive should I use? Is
mix of Master Blend Custom Flex Ultra Strength and Acrylic Mortar has
enough heat resistance? (You mention Laticrete earlier but I can find
any retail suppliers in DFW area.) (b) In the showroom they didn’t use
any grout for slate tile. What grout should I use? (c) What sealant is
the best? Thank you. Natasha
TILE MAN'S ANSWER
10-24-2002 - 09:27 pm
Dear Natasha, Thanks for your kind words. Understood it all but
don't know what slate... there are many variations and densities. I'll
assume you've got a great quality vitrified(glass-like) high quartz
content / class 1 slate. Custom Building Products (CBP)are just fine,
but you can and should use one with the already acrylic dry components
- either Flexbond or CFlexPro will do it well for you and no liquid
acrylic / latex admix is needed. You can use CBP sanded grout... I
recommend natural grey... don't try to add the grout as a design
element. natural grey, cement colour is most common for masonary work
and looks most natural...Hmmmm maybe that's why they call it 'natural'
grey grout? For sealing, again use CBP products to make it easy...
just a penetrating silicate sealer such as 'Surfacegard' sealer will
do fine. You are welcome.
You also might find this page helpful:
http://www.411homerepair.com/ideas/Kitchen_Bath/KitchenWallTile.shtml
Installing Kitchen Wall Tile
Installing wall tile in the kitchen between the backsplash and the
wall cabinets is an easy task to accomplish. Tile stands up to the
necessary cleaning behind a range or cutting board better than paint
and is very economical.
To start with, we have to make a few design decisions. The first one
is to select the tile that appeals to you. This is the part of the
project that I can't help you with. Unless I receive orders to the
contrary, I normally stick with white or off-white. The color you
choose for the grout should complement the tile color. I normally go
with (big surprise) off-white. Others like a dark grout to make the
grout lines stand out.
The third design decision is the space that you will allow between the
tile. I prefer tight grout lines in the kitchen (1/16") but wider
lines (1/8" - 3/16") in the bath. The width of the grout line will
determine whether you need sanded or non-sanded grout. Non-sanded
grout should only be used when the grout will fill a gap 3/16" or
smaller. Sanded grout may also be used on 3/16" grout lines but
nothing smaller.
Preparation
The wall where you are placing your tile should be clean and free of
debris. It also needs to be fairly straight. Beyond leveling the
surface, the amount of surface preparation necessary will depend on
the tile adhesive you use and the amount of abuse that the tiles will
receive. The example in the photos for this project is simply drywall
with a coat of latex primer. The tile adhesive we used was purchased
from a local hardware store, nothing special. Check the mastic's label
to make sure that it is compatible with your surface...
...Adhesive
For most backsplashes, a wall-grade mastic is generally sufficient.
Mastic is nice to work with as it has a longer open time than thinset.
Normal wall tile will hold nicely with mastic but some stone tiles
need special adhesives. Marble is a good example.
Put the adhesive on the wall
The adhesive goes onto the wall with the notched trowel. I used a
trowel w/ 1/4" notches for the job so that the "Corn Rows" would show
up. You should probably use one with smaller grooves for 4"x4" tile.
When applying the adhesive, use the flat edge to apply a layer of
adhesive first. Next, hold the trowel at a 45 degree angle to the wall
and "comb" the mastic out. The result should be nice even "corn rows"
of adhesive (picture at left). Don't get too far ahead of yourself,
only put up as much adhesive on as you can cover in the next several
minutes, especially if you have to cut the tile as you go...
So stone tile is addressed in this article and might provide the tips
you require.
I hope this is infomative for you.
Regards,
-=clouseau=-
