Hi jayson!
I scrounged around all of my favorite DIY sites on the 'Net, and
virtually all of them, when presented with the question of "How do I
repair my foundation? I can stick my finger through in some spots!"
said "Replace the whole thing. If it's that bad where you *can* see
it, it's probably that bad where you *can't* see it."
But you said you didn't want to replace it, so I made a few phone
calls to see who could explain things, then printed your question out
and took it in to see Jake in the Building Materials department at the
Home Depot in my neighborhood. He explained everything, and gave
suggestions as to where to find more details on the 'Net. (They won't
specifically talk about foundations, but the techniques do apply.)
Jake's first question, after recommending replacement and being told
"No, he wants to *repair* it." was "Has he had it professionally
inspected?" You didn't mention that here, so we went on the
assumption that you haven't yet done so. Jake highly recommends it,
however, to make sure you don't get started on the repair and discover
that you're in over your head. Sandstone is apparently considered a
bad idea for foundations these days - they look nice, but they just
don't stand up to pressure very well, and tend to do nasty things like
leak, crumble and crack. To repair them, you have to treat them like
concrete - not as pretty as sandstone, but the best way to repair
them.
The first thing you'll need to do is make sure the foundation is clean
and dust free. Wash the foundation with warm soapy water and a
moderately stiff brush. DO NOT use a power washer. Make sure to
remove all crumbly areas with a chisel or ball peen hammer.
Next, make sure the foundation is completely dry. If you have a space
heater in the basement, turn it on for a day or two.
Jake recommends that your next step be to plug all holes and cracks,
inside and out, with Quikrete Water Stop Cement:
[ http://www.quikrete.com/catalog/product_1126.html ]
You can do this with a small trowel, and use a wooden dowel rod to
push the plugging material into the deeper holes (you'll want to patch
the ones that go all the way through from both sides if possible}.
Quikrete gives a brief tutorial in their projects section:
Repairing leaks in Concrete and Masonry
[ http://www.quikrete.com/diy/project_48.html ]
To repair chips and corners, you can use Quikrete's Quick Setting
Cement Tutorial:
Repairing with Quick Setting Cement
[ http://www.quikrete.com/diy/project_52.html ]
Once you've patched up all the holes and repaired all the chips and
corners and everything has dried, you're ready to resurface. For
resurfacing, you'll need Quikrete Concrete resurfacer:
[ http://www.quikrete.com/catalog/product_1131_40.html ]
Wet the foundation down, then mix the resurfacer according to the
package directions. Jake says you'll want to mix it a little thick,
since it's going up on a wall, instead of being laid out on a
horizontal surface. Apply with a trowel, smooth with a squeegee, and
let it all dry completely. Seal the inside with Quikrete Acrylic Cure
& Seal:
[ http://www.quikrete.com/catalog/product_8800.html ]
There's a tutorial here:
Sealing Concrete and Masonry
[ http://www.quikrete.com/catalog/product_8800.html ]
Your very last step is waterproofing the outside of the foundation.
Jake recommends DeWitt's Foundation and Liquid Roof. I wasn't able to
find it online, but Jake assures me that any reputable building supply
carrier will have it - instructions are on the bucket (it's a big,
black, 5 gallon bucket). Application of DeWitt's should keep your
foundation leak free for up to 20 years, says Jake.
It's a time consuming project, but considerably less expensive than
replacing the whole thing. Even so, please take Jake's suggestion -
get it inspected first, to save yourself possible headaches later.
You can find everything you need for your project, including free
pamphlets, expert advice, and more in-depth project books to either
purchase or peruse in the store at your local Home Depot:
Home Depot Store Locator
[ http://www.homedepot.com ]
If there isn't a Home Depot in your area, try Lowe's. I can't speak
personally for their selection and service, but they seem to be
comparable to Home Depot in layout and available help:
Lowe's Store Locator
[ http://www.lowes.com ]
Lowe's also has a tutorial related to your problem here:
Repairing Leaky Cracks in Masonry Walls and Concrete Floors
[ http://170.224.4.200/lkn?action=howTo&p=prvlksbs&topic=howTo#4 ]
Good luck! I hope the project ahead of you is less daunting than my
sources have made it out to be!
missy-ga |
