Hello Roger,
Another interesting search, for which I thank you!
Let's talk a bit about the quality of silk.
An excellent Thai page notes the following on quality:
http://welcome-to.chiangmai-chiangrai.com/silk-quality_thai_silk.htm
"Why Does Good Quality Thai Silk Cost More?
General characteristics of Silk
-Raw silk thread is a very tough texture because of natural mechanism
of the silk worm's cocoon.
-Silks have a natural sheen or luster while other fabrics are
technically improved.
-Silk is not a heat conductor but can adapt well in various climates.
-Silk is easily burnt but will stop burning when it is removed from
the fire. A black fragile granule ash is obtained. The smell is like
burnt bird's feathers.
-Good silk thread will give a smooth, tightly woven texture. The
surface will resist the dirt...
They continue with the refining process and then arrive at some of the
quality differences:
"...Much of the silk from other countries is woven by machine, using
raw silk material (the silk threads have not been previously bleached
and dyed). Then the woven silk fabric is bleached and dyed in a single
process. This results in a woven silk fabric which has both warp and
weft of exactly the same color. This tends to give the fabric a "flat"
appearance, without the depth of color one associates with high
quality Thai silk.
Good quality Thai silk is woven on hand looms (Gee-Gratoog). The warp
and weft are not of the same color, which is what gives Thai silk its
natural sheen and luster, and makes Thai silk so unique in terms of
color tones and blends. If you hold a piece of good Thai silk up to
the light, the overall color tone will change depending on the angle
of the light. However, with machine-woven silk, regardless of what
light angle you hold it at, it looks the same.
There is also the tightness of the weave. Good quality Thai silk
begins with a warp of 2,000 threads for a 1 meter width, which
produces a very tightly woven fabric. Producers of substandard quality
silk may use 1,800 threads in the warp (or even sometimes as low as
1,600) along with poor weft fabric. All of these factors will make for
a looser weave, and also presents problems when the fabric is sewn
into a garment, because the material will tend to pull apart in the
process..."
A link from this page discusses a primer for buying silk in Thailand:
http://welcome-to.chiangmai-chiangrai.com/silk-tsilk.htm
"...SILK is a spun commodity that requires more knowledge and
understanding than most people think, and the types of silk produced
in different parts of the world have their own unique sheens and
textures. If we take silk pieces from the four main world producers
and place them side by side, we immediately see these differences.
Chinese silk tends to be smooth and satiny, while Indian silk tends to
be softer with richer colors and a more crinkly look. Italian silk has
the refined and elegant look of high fashion, and Thai silk projects
the natural blended textures and patterns that are so very Southeast
Asian.
Many visitors to Chiangmai and the North are under informed about the
various silk types. Some expect to see the Chinese type because that's
what they're used to. Others are not familiar with the material types
at all and have to rely on the advice of others when buying. Neither
of these is really acceptable when looking for the fine silk of
Thailand. It will help to know what silk is, how it's made, what kind
of price ranges one should be looking for and some simple material
tests that every consumer can apply themselves while in the process of
buying...."
This site is a treasure of information. As you will note above, and
since this silk will not be used in clothing, your son and daughter
may have to make an aesthetic decision on which "look" is appropriate
for their art backings. Though Thai silk appears to be very high
quality, perhaps the "crinkly look" of Chinese might be desirable.
However, if you are going to travel personally to purchase, I would
like to see you avoid China at this point in time.
They continue:
"...Recognizing Real Silk
The question is, "how can you be sure that the silk fabric item you
wish to buy is actuary 100 percent Thai silk and not the imitation,
which is made of polyester?" There are five basic guidelines for
determining the answer to this question. Consider the price, the
weave, the lusters, and the print and what we call the Burn Test...
...The weave is another area which will allow the shopper to
immediately see the difference between the real silk and the
imitation. The real silk weave is completely handmade of a natural
fibre and thus clearly shows small flaws or joins in the thread along
the warp and the weft. The imitation polyester, on the other hand, is
a machine-made fabric and has a perfect surface with no flaws or
bumps. This aspect can be most important to the unknowledgeable
shopper in that what appears to be perfect in polyester is actually
the imitation of real silk.
Luster is the third guideline feature, and a small light test shows
whether a fabric is real or imitation. The 100-percent Thai silk is
made with one color for the warp and one color for the weft. This is
what gives Thai silk its natural sheen and luster and it's what makes
Thai silk so unique in terms of color tones and blends. Thus, when you
hold a piece of 100-percent silk up to the light the overall color
tone will change depending on the angle of light. With the Imitation,
regardless of what light angle You hold it in, it shines white.
Whether a fabric is real silk or imitation is also easy to determine
by looking carefully at the print. A 100-percent Thai silk piece will
have the printed pattern on one side with only an outline of the print
on the reverse side When both sides are held up to the light, only the
full print side will change color. The colors are not evident on the
reverse side. With an imitation print, the pattern print and colors
can be seen on one side while a plain color can be seen on the reverse
side; and, both sides shine white when held to the light.
The final feature here is the Burn Test. If you take a thread or two
of 100-percent Thai silk and light them with a flame, it will leave a
fine ash and smell like burnt hair. As soon as the flame is taken away
the threads will stop burning. When the imitation silk is lit, on the
other hand, it will drip, it will burn black smoke, and it continues
to burn after the flame is taken away . This Burn test is really
unnecessary if you're familiar with the other features discussed
above. It is, however, a certain way to determine authenticity when in
doubt..."
Another site offers a little more information on burn testing:
http://www.srfabrics.com/linens/linen.htm
Silk Road
"Want to know what that fabric is? The Burn Test is a quick way to
determine the fiber content of an unknown fabric:
In a well-ventilated area, and away from flammable materials, unravel
a few threads of the fabric in question. Lighting a match or lighter,
move the sample slowly first up to the flame and then into it,
watching carefully. Remove it from the flame, still watching it and
extinguish it if necessary.
Linen fibers won't shrink from the flame, will burn with a yellow
flame while in it, continues to burn when the flame is removed, and
smells like burning paper. There is a little grey ash residue after
extinguishing. Cotton reacts much the same, because they are both
cellulose, but cotton has much shorter, limper fibers. Practice with a
little of each known fiber to get a feel for the difference..."
And this site has an excellent chart on the burn qualities of
different fibers:
http://www.lindrix.com/fabcontent.html
"How to determine fabric content by using the burn test.
Snip a piece of fabric equivalent to 1" square. Using a butane
lighter and holding the fabric with a pair of tweezers ignite the
fabric over a non-flammable surface in a well ventilated area.
Examine the quality and color of the flame, the odor produced, and the
quality of the resulting ash or cinder. Use this table to help
determine your fabric's content."
Back to the Silk Road site, and important for you to note:
"Width: Silk is seldom wider than 45". All our silk is 45" wide unless
noted otherwise."
I am finding that common widths are 41" to 54". If this is a show
stopper for the needs of your family, do let me know and we will look
into other fabrics. But don't give up hope just yet. I have not begun
to search the wholesale availability of wider widths.
This page continues to talk about the different varieties of silk:
http://www.srfabrics.com/silks/silk.htm
100% silk charmeuse: Satiny and drapey, it puts the 'silk' in silky
100% silk dupioni: Iridescent, with slight natural slubs. Best suited
for tailored garments
100% silk 4-Ply silks - a medium to heavy weight crepe, lustrous with
a pebbled finish
100% silk noil - Light and nubby
Silk velvet (silk/rayon blend) - simply the best
Burnout Silk velvet (silk/rayon blend) - Same as above with peek-a-boo
viewing ports
100% silk organza (white) - 42" wide
100% silk gauze (white) - 42" wide
100% silk chiffon
On the 'Other Silks' page:
Embroidered silk (white base)
100% silk broadcloth (white)
Silk brocades (Chinese patterns, silk/rayon blend)
100% silk crepe
100% silk crepe de Chine
100% silk Peau de Soie (duchess satin)
100% China silk
Very unusual: silk / metal tissue
100% silk 8 mm habati
I read through the individual pages and would surmise that the
following would most likely be the better choices for your
application:
"Dupioni (sometimes spelled 'douppioni' or 'dupion'), is a lustrous
silk often woven from two different colors of threads, so that it
shimmers or changes color in the light. Dupioni is made from an
irregular, rough silk reeled from double cocoons or cocoons spun
side-by-side which are interlocked, making it necessary to reel them
together. Usually brightly colored, it has a moderately crisp drape,
fairly reflective luster, and a nubby texture. It is crisp to the
touch and doesn't wrinkle badly or hold a crease well. It is
reversible, not particularly stretchy, and relatively easy to sew.
General Uses
Dupioni is most often used for loose fitting blouses, jackets, suits,
skirts, dresses, bridal gowns and draperies for home decoration. White
dupioni often used for bridal gowns due to its lustrous sheen and
relatively low cost. That is a good choice, as we often have matching
beaded dupioni in the same shades, perfect for a contrasting bodice.
Avoid tight fitting garments as seams may pull apart due to the weave.
Sews relatively easily, but pins leave marks, so pin carefully."
And...
"Silk Noil (sometimes incorrectly called raw silk) has a nubby feel
and a low sheen. Noil somewhat resembles cotton in surface texture,
and sews easily. The nubby texture of noil comes from the use of very
short fibers (called, appropriately, 'silk noils') to weave the
fabric. When these short fibers are spun into yarns, the resulting
yarns have occasional slubs and loose ends. Nubs vary between
different weaves. Noil which has not been completely de-gummed (had
the natural sericin removed), may easily attract dirt and odors. Wash
before sewing up.
General uses
Noil is a bit bulky to use for gathered construction, but it has a
gentle drape. It is durable, travels well and resists wrinkles. It is
best suited for loose to moderately fitted pants, skirts, slacks,
dresses, and jackets. Also used for Men's suits. Silk noil is very
easy to sew, doesn't show pin holes, but does tend to unravel."
You will find a number of other types of silk on this page:
http://www.srfabrics.com/silks/othersilks.htm
It is also useful to know how silk thicknesses are measured:
http://www.raincitypublishing.com/silkyardage.html
"Some silk fabrics are sold by momme weight, a Japanese unit of
measure. Momme is abbreviated mm and appears on the fabric bolt as 5mm
or 16mm. A 1mm fabric weighs 3.62 grams per square yard. The bigger
the number, the heavier the fabric. A 5-8mm fabric is very
lightweight, such as chiffon, habutai or organza. 12-16mm is medium
weight, typical of charmeuse and crepe de Chine. Heavy fabrics such as
suiting, tussah and tweed are sold by gram weight or without a weight
designation..."
At this point, let's see what we can find on silk widths available as
this may present a problem. As noted above, 54" seems to be a standard
large width. The largest I have so far found is an Indian company with
270 CM widths (8.85'):
http://www.indiamart.com/nidhiexports/
Since I think we might be leaning toward Thai silk, I investigated
this page which notes:
http://www.bangkok-thailand.com/about-thai-silk.htm
"What is smooth Thai silk?
Smooth Thai silk has a shiny, satin-like finish. It's suitable for all
purposes, particularly clothing and interior decorating. The
"standard" width is about 37 inches/94 centimeters and is available in
2-ply and sometimes 4-ply. All colors and designs are available.
Starting in 2003, our weavers are being to produce silk at a standard
width of 40 inches..
So, we may have to look at machine woven silk to find the wider
widths.
Lets look at the four main world regions for silk once more and then
inquire of specific manufacturers or wholesalers:
Thai silk is well described above. Apparently, since it is hand
loomed, which appears desirable, this also limits the width to under
54".
Indian Silk:
Trade-India.com has a list of manufacturers / exporters of silk at
this page. I looked at their sites and found a few that show promise:
http://www.trade-india.com/dyn/gdh/eyp/Textiles_and_Leather_Products/Silk_Silk_Fabric/
http://www.universaltextile.com/ for example.
Unfortunately, they also note:
"The width of the fabric usually varies from 90 cms to 150 cms but the
most widely used width is 110 cms/44" and 135 cms/54"
There was little company information on many of these listings, so I
emailed a few dozen and await their replies on available widths of
silk bolts available. I will post any promising replies as comments as
they are received.
Krishti Silks
http://www.ksrishti.com/dupion.asp
Shows an excellent selection with widths up to 60", a slight
improvement. I have emailed them for availability of wider widths.
This company looks promising and email has been sent:
Khemchand Bros
http://www.businessonlineindia.com/listings/khemchand.htm
Manufacturers of Dupion and Taffetta Silk any weight and width, We
have our own manufacturing unit and specialise in printing. We even
manufacture Cushion Covers, Scarves and Sarongs both in silk as well
as Art silk.
Address: 126, Devatha Market, Chickpet, Bnagalore - 560 053 Karnataka,
India
All in all, I have about 30 inquiries out to Indian Silk
manufacturers.
Italian silk:
What an introduction to Italian silk I found on my first hit!
http://www.setificiofiorentino.it/english/sezione.htm
There is a place where
... fabrics, in sparkling silk, for interior decoration are created
...the interiors of the Kremlin, The Quirinale, The Royal Palaces of
Stockholm and Copenhagen were produced
the most famous contemporary architects choose fabrics, woven on
ancient looms dating to the 18th and 19th centuries, for their
projects
modern and tradition are melted together
...and where you can make your dreams come true
This place is lAntico Setificio Fiorentino
Hmmm. Their presentation of fabrics looks very interesting, albeit
with not enough description to know if they meet your needs. I have
sent email, but arrrgh, their mailbox is full and the mail has been
bounced. Perhaps you might like to call them, Roger?
Antico Setificio Fiorentino S.P.A.
Via L. Bartolini, 4 50124 Firenze
Tel +39 055 213861 Fax +39 055 218174
I checked a few additional sites and was duly impressed with what I
have seen of Italian silk quality. though no one yet mentions widths
of wider than 140 cm, I have sent email inquiries none-the-less. I am
hoping Italy may provide your answer and it somehow seems to coincide
with the purpose of backing fine art with a fine Italian product.
Focusing on Italian silk for the moment, I noticed that this site
makes interesting comments:
http://www.fabrics.net/newslist/news.asp?NewsID=8
"...Doupioni [doo-pee-ohn-ee] is reeled from double (silk) cocoons
nested together. The threads are uneven and irregular. Italian
Doupioni is the finest, followed by Chinese Doupioni and Indian
Doupioni. Doupioni is also seen in man-made fibers such as polyester,
acetate and referred to as doupionni. Silk Doupioni is most often
found in men's and women's fine suits and also dresses in lighter
weight silk Doupioni..."
And...
http://www.fabrics.net/outlet/momme.asp
"...but the FINEST SILK FABRIC comes from Italy and France. China has
come a long way from its earlier silk fabric manufacturing to become
today a supplier of quality silk fabric for the most part. But not
every supplier out of China produces silk of equal value in beauty and
durability. As the weight of the silk goes up, so does the price and
the durability. A duchesse silk satin from China does not have the
same value/beauty as a duchesse silk satin from Italy for instance.
Although it is a nice silk, it is not comparable to the silk fabric of
Italy and France. But of course, it is less expensive..."
Here is an interesting article from Italy Weekly:
http://www.italydaily.it/Italian_life/Suzy_Menkes/giugno/textiles.shtml
"It all starts with the best textiles
By Suzy Menkes - fashion editor of the International Herald Tribune
Tuesday, June 25, 2002
Artisanal roots nurture industry built on integration
MILAN Highly fragmented, intensely specialized and still largely owned
by the same families that started the businesses, Italy's textiles
industry remains the most important component in fashion worldwide,
supplying top designers with quality materials. But its continuing
success may depend on whether it can resist the modern business mantra
that says market economics, consolidation and vertical integration are
essential to survive in a global marketplace.
Known as la filiera, which roughly describes the entire fashion chain
from thread to the garment sold in a shop, the industry is one of
Italy's most important. According to Carlo Rivelli, head of the data
department at the textiles trade association, Associazione
Nobilitazione Tessile, it had total sales of E47.8 billion ($46.2
billion) in 2001, a 1.6 percent rise from the year before. He believes
the most important feature of the industry is its integration. "All
the elements of the production chain are present in Italy," he said.
"The fact that they are often to be found together in the same
geographical area means that production is fast and flexible, which
gives it an advantage over countries where this is not the case."
"...Moritz Mantero, the chairman of the Como-based silk fabric
manufacturer Mantero, says that there are 10,000 companies in the
Italian textile-to-fashion production chain. ."In world markets, you
need to be big to survive," he says. "But in Italy numerous small
companies are competing with each other to produce something better
than each other. Together they are big enough to compete globally."
.Mantero, with 1,000 workers and annual sales of E160 million, is
hardly a giant. And yet it is the leading silk fabric producer in
Europe and supplies all the top designers in the world. "I do not
believe there is another silk manufacturer as big as us anywhere
else," Mantero says...."
Italy sounds more and more promising.
DolceVita says this:
http://www.dolcevita.com/travel/como/musei/silk.htm
"Italy produces 91% of all the silk produced in Europe . The city of
Como covers 78,8%.of this amount all by itself. Its annual production
totals 3,200 tons of silk, (broken down into material for clothing,
upholstery, decorator fabrics, scarves, ties and shawls). In economic
terms, exports around Lit. 2,000 billion per year.
It's a huge business and there are two huge presences which stand out
in any study of the silk industry in the 20th-century: Antonio Ratti
and the Mantero family, still the most prominent influences in the
market, produce their own textiles as well as custom fabrics for the
big names in fashion design. Among the famous fashion houses who
commission silk materials from Ratti are Versace, Valentino, Dolce &
Gabbana, Gianfranco Ferré, Christian Dior, Karl Lagerfeld, Romeo
Gigli, Loewe, Bulgari, Gucci and Paloma Picasso. Mantero's clientele
includes Kenzo, Yves Saint Laurent, Ungaro, Nina Ricci, Trussardi and
Lonchamp.
The Museo Didattico della Seta (Silk Museum) was opened in 1990 to
document an accurate account of the history of the silk industry in
Como. It is provides physical evidence, from past to present, of an
industry that still operates a veritible world-wide monopoly..."
Do read this article. Shall we book a ticket to Italy??
CUGNASCA - MANTERO SETA S.p.A. (Silk)
Via Rosales 4, 22100 Como, Tel: 031 574 703, Fax: 031 571465
Chinese silk:
As mentioned, probably not the ideal destination at this time in world
history and probably the most difficult suppliers to communicate with.
That being said, I have sent email inquiries but have not found
anything yet compelling enough to recommend. I do have a number of
email inquiries in the pipeline and will report should China become a
compelling source of supply.
So, let's summarize a bit.
There are four major silk producing regions in the world: Italy,
India, Thailand and China. I think we would like to avoid China as a
destination. Thailand has excellent quality, but since production is
primarily on hand looms, the widths will rarely exceed 54". If quality
is a higher priority than width, Thailand might be my first choice. If
width is more important, then India should be the target. If pattern
and artful quality is the focus, I would be trotting off to Italy.
Perhaps a single seam with two pieces of 60" wide would suit the need?
Hopefully, I will have email replies back to confirm the widths
mentioned on the above pages and 60"-106" silk should be available.
I have also searched for "exotic fabrics" but nothing except antique
brocades caught my eye for your purpose. Since they have no
predictable supply, I have excluded these from my search.
Should width be the primary requirement, we might want to search
further for other fabrics. Do let me know if your son and daughter
would like this to be pursued.
At this point, I think I will let you digest this research and make a
few decisions. I'll append any replies of note and await further
direction on width, fabric, colors or patterns or anything pertinent
that will assist in finding the best choices for you. I am so tempted
to just recommend a trip to Como, Italy where I am confident you would
find something of excellence to meet your needs.
Best regards,
-=clouseau=-
Search strategies:
quality of silk
silk +manufacturer OR wholesaler OR distributor
silk roll OR bolt +width
"silk fabric"+manufacturer OR wholesaler OR distributor +china OR
India OR italy
italy OR italian +"silk fabric" +wholesale OR manufacture
"silk manufacturer" +italy OR italian
"silk manufacturer" +france OR french |