How are professionally sewn garments able to be made so perfectly?
I.E. The seams are perfectly straight, the stitches are always
balanced, the hems are perfectly even, etc. How can I achieve these
results on my home machine? (I have a Singer $300 model.) I have been
using a seam guide, automatic
hemming foot (also called a rolled hem foot) - without good results.
Basically, I am looking to sew products for resale and I need help
making perfect hems and the like! Thanks!

Hello jude~

First, let me wish you the best of success with your business venture!

Second, I'd point out that the quality of sewing on retail clothing
varies considerably. If you look closely at most of the clothes found
at such places as J.C. Penny, Meyer & Frank, and similar department
stores, you'll find that the sewing is often quite flawed.

However, there are a few differences between home sewing and sewing
for retail:

1. The sewers use industrial machines. The major difference between
these machines and a home sewing machine is that they sew *much* more
quickly. (In fact, if you're not use to them, it's easy to stick a
needle through your hand.)

2. The garment is usually cut out by a machine (or, as in some couture
clothing, is cut by a master cutter, who cuts the same garment over
and over again).

3. Each sewer has their own job and has done it a million times. One
does buttons, the other does hems, one sews bodices, etc.

You may wish to simulate this production-line thinking into your own
business. For example, you might sew a large number of sleeves, then
attach them to all the bodices in one fell swoop. This not only might
be faster, but the repetition of doing the same section over and over
again will turn you into a real expert :)

If you feel that your machine may be the cause of less-than-ideal
stitches, I suggest that you take it in to be serviced. Get it
thoroughly cleaned and checked out. Then, even if you think you know
the answers, ask them how best to maintain the machine at home and how
best to deal with the machine's tension.

Sewing machines should be dusted for lint regularly (typically between
projects; if you're sewing for hours each day, you may need to de-lint
a couple times each day), and require frequently oiling. Use sewing
machine oil (found at fabric stores in the "notions" section), and oil
every place that moves and comes into contact with another part. A
single, small drop is plenty. Machines should be oiled about every
four hours of use. Failure to oil and clean machines can lead to
sloppy stitches.

You'll also want to change your sewing machine needle frequently.
(Again, how often depends upon how much you're sewing; the average
home sewer should change needles for every project. The "Threads"
article below suggests changing the needle every four hours.) Machine
needles become dull quickly, resulting in skipped and sloppy stitches.

For tips on maintaining your machine, check out this article by Sally
Hickerson, which originally appeared in "Threads"
magazine--"Preventative Sewing Machine Maintenance:"
http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/t00022.asp

There are also some general sewing techniques you can use that will
help. If you're interested in making couture clothing, my best
recommendation to you is to pick up the following books. They should
be available at any bookstore (or even a sewing store), but I've
included links to Amazon.com so you can learn more about them:

* "Couture: The Art of Sewing" by Roberta Carr:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0935278281/qid=1056554897/sr=8-1/ref=sr_8_1/102-8989840-5812962?v=glance&s=books&n=507846
This book isn't about "haute" couture (which is a very specific style
of making garments), but it does offer higher-end, quality sewing
instructions. In it, you'll learn the best way to cut out a garment
(fabric preparation is a lot of it), pressing, making special seams
and hems (French, mock Hong Kong, narrow hems, etc.), making darts,
working with bias, binding, piping, gathers, sleeves, sleeve heads and
shoulder pads, pockets, topstitching, and more.

* "Couture Sewing Techniques" by Claire B. Shaeffer:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/1561584975/ref=pd_sim_books_1/102-8989840-5812962?v=glance&s=books
This is a superb book if you want to learn to make clothes the way the
top-of-the-line (haute couture) designers do. You'll learn about the
entire process, from hand sewing basics, to machine sewing seams, seam
finishes, pressing, sewing hems (plain hems, interfaced hems, hand
rolled hems), facings, closures, and much much more.

* "Shirtmaking: Developing Skills for Fine Sewing" by David Page
Coffin:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/1561580155/qid=1056555308/sr=1-1/ref=sr_1_1/102-8989840-5812962?v=glance&s=books
If you'll be sewing men's or women's shirts, this book will help you
learn to make them *quality."


That aside, let me see if I can directly address the concerns you've
mentioned.

1. Perfectly straight seams. The key to straight seams is two fold.
First, accurate cutting is essential. If you're going to be making a
lot of garments, I'd suggest you cut out most things with a rotary
cutter. At the very least, make sure you have an excellent set of
shears that you only use for cutting out. A good table will make your
work go much more easily and accurately. It should be big enough to
spread your fabric out on, and high enough that your back doesn't ache
when you cut. For tips on cutting, see "Cutting Out" by Jan Bones:
http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/t00005.asp

Remember that if you haven't pre-shrunk your fabric or straightened
the grain, even the most accurate cutting will look "wrong" when the
garment is put together. For a primer on preparing fabric for cutting,
check out this article by Rose Marie Tondl:
http://www.ianr.unl.edu/pubs/Textiles/g1028.htm

Second, accurate sewing is a must. Simply line up the edge of your
fabric with the correct markings on your machine (near the foot). If
for some reason your machine doesn't have the correct markings, you
can make them yourself by taking a tape measure and putting one end
exactly where the needle falls. Measure the correct distance and mark
it with masking tape. If you still have trouble sewing a straight seam
you're probably either sewing too fast.

2. Balanced Stitches. This is a matter of making sure your machine is
properly adjusted for your fabric. You'll have to read your sewing
machine manual for specifics here, but here's a great primer on
tension, from "Sew News" magazine:
http://sewing.about.com/library/sewnews/qa/aaqa0703a.htm

A worn out needle might also cause problems in this area (as can an
unclean machine). The wrong needle could also cause difficulties.
Check out "Needle Know How" by Laurie Baker, to learn about which
needle is best for which project:
http://sewing.about.com/library/sewnews/library/aamach21b.htm

3. Even hems. It's impossible to have an even hem without trying the
garment on the wearer. But there are many things that will make the
hem look even one day and uneven the next. For example, if the wearer
is donning different underwear or shoes. Even just how they let the
garment ride on their body will make a difference.

From your query, it sounds like you're trying to sew a narrow hem.
(Indeed, on most garments, narrow hems look more graceful, less bulky,
and less "home made.") The best way to do this is to make sure you add
5/8 inch extra to the finished length of the garment. Then:

* On the wrong side, carefully measure and press up 1/2 inch. In order
to avoid stretching the fabric, press with the top (the tip) of the
iron facing the top of the garment.

* From the right side of the garment, machine stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch
from the pressed edge.

* Press the stitched area again, making sure the tip of the iron is
pointed toward the top of the garment.

* With a pair of sharp, small scissors (like "pelican" scissors) cut
away the seam allowance as close to your stitches as possible.

* From the wrong side, press up the stitched edge; the stitches should
be centered in the areas you're pressing up.

* From the wrong side, machine stitch directly over the first
stitches. You'll have to do this slowly, with the fabric taunt.

* Press the stitched area again.

For abbreviated instructions on this (that are illustrated) see The
Home Sewing Association's article on "Finishing The Edge:"
http://www.sewing.org/html/ls-finishedge.html

With these things in mind, your sewing should improve. And with more
practice sewing similar garments over and over again, soon your sewing
will resemble that on retail clothing! :)

Good luck!
Kriswrite


Keywords Used:
"sewing machine" maintenance
://www.google.com/search?hl=en&lr=&ie=ISO-8859-1&q=%22sewing+machine%22+maintenance&btnG=Google+Search

cut* garments rotary
://www.google.com/search?hl=en&lr=&ie=ISO-8859-1&q=cut*+garments+rotary&btnG=Google+Search

"how to" narrow hem
://www.google.com/search?hl=en&lr=&ie=ISO-8859-1&q=%22how+to%22+narrow+hem&btnG=Google+Search

---

Request for Answer Clarification by jude1-ga on 25 Jun 2003 19:44 PDT

Dear Kriswrite, May I request some clarification please? I mentioned
the seam guide and automatic hemming foot, I am interested in how to
use these better and  really interested in any other tools like these
that help make perfect hems/seams. Also, *why* are the industrial
machines so much better (besides speed)? Do they have special feet
that make the hems for them automatically? I am looking for efficiency
and the "couture" techniques (and I actually have that book! LOL.) are
too time costly. Please let me know. :) Thanks, Jude

---

Clarification of Answer by kriswrite-ga on 26 Jun 2003 08:30 PDT

Oops! I need more coffee this morning! I posted my clarification under "Comments" :)

What a wonderfully informative answer! Maybe I'll try sewing again,
after having put my machine away several decades ago.

Thanks for posting all the good advice, Kriswrite!

HI Jude~

Let me see if I can address your concerns.

The main reasons industrial machines are used are: speed and
durability. When you're using any kind of machine for 8 hours a day,
durability is a real issue. Break downs and time spent to fix problems
cost money. Therefore, industrial machines may require less upkeep (if
properly maintained). Most modern sewing machines have the same
features as industrial machines (unless they are very low end), and in
fact, many companies that make industrial machines also make home
sewing machines.

If you are sewing heavyweight fabric (heavy upholstery, heavy ducking,
heavy jean, etc.) then an industrial machine would probably be a great
investment for you, since they are especially made for such bulky
fabric.

A walking foot is a feature that almost all industrial machines have;
it makes it easier to feed fabric into the machine. Walking feet are
also available for home sewing machines; if you don't already have
one, you may wish to purchase one

For an example of industrial machine features, check out this sale
site of C.H. Holderby's:
http://www.chholderby.com/IndSew/heavy.htm

Also see this site, selling an industrial machine specifically for use
with heavier fabrics:
http://www.sewingmachineoutlet.com/sailmaker.htm

In addition, there are some specialized industrial sewing machines:
some just for sewing leather, others just for making buttonholes, etc.
For a peak at some of these specialized machines, check out Epinions:
http://www.epinions.com/hmgd-Large_Appliances-All-Sewing_Machines-Traditional/pp_~7

As someone who has sewn both for fun and profit (primarily
reproductions--which require a high degree of accurate sewing...and
costumes--which must be incredibly durable), I do not generally
recommend hemming feet. Generally, in my opinion, much better results
can be obtained by doing it "the old fashioned way." However, below
are tips for making better hems, including hems with special feet.

When you're dissatisfied with hems, do you try different types of hems
on a garment? This may be the key to happy results. Not every garment
and fabric type looks right with the same hem.

You might try your machines blindstitching to make a virtually
invisible hem. You'll have to consult your machine's manual for
specific directions on this, since it varies from machine to machine,
but here are some basic instructions, based upon those found in Claire
Schaeffer's "Fabric Sewing Guide" (
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0801986281/qid=1056639597/sr=8-1/ref=sr_8_1/102-8989840-5812962?v=glance&s=books&n=507846
):

1. Cut the hem allowance 1 to 3 inches wide
2. Mark, press, and finish the edge of the hem
3. Pin hem in place
4. Fold the garment, right sides together so that the free edge of the
hem is exposed 1/4 inch. Repin from the wrong side of the garment
through all layers.
5. Set machine for blind hemming (use a special foot if your machine
requires it). Center the fold under the foot and stitch. Press.

If the hem is flared, you'll need to baste the hem in place first (1/4
inch below the free edge) in order to control the fullness. For the
best blind hem, use a blind-hemming foot and a fine needle with loose
upper tension.


A machine stitched "Lettuce" hem is good on fabrics with 50% stretch
or on bias cut woven fabrics. To do this hem:

1. Trim away all hem allowance
2. While stretching the fabric, zig zag the edge to be hemmed. The
more you stretch, the more ruffled the hem will look. Experiment on
scrap cloth to get the effect you want. For a smoother look, use a 1/4
seam allowance, and fold it under before zig-zagging.


A machine rolled hem is common on retail clothes and works especially
well on curves. It is a variation on the narrow hem.

1. Cut allowance to 5/8 inch
2. Machine stitch 1/2 inch from the edge
3. With the right side up, fold under the edge on the stitched line,
edgestitch. A zipper foot of edgestitching foot can help you stitch
1/16 inch to the edge, which will create a very neat and narrow hem.
Trim as close to the stitched line as possible with applique scissors.
4. Fold up the hem again. With the wrong side of the garment up,
stitch on top of the previous stitches.

A variation on this is to use water-soluble thread in the bobbin when
edgestitching. That way, bulk will be reduced when the garment is
washed.


Now, here are instructions on how to use your hemming foot. Please
also check your manual, since the way you "thread" the fabric into the
foot will vary from machine to machine.

1. Cut hem allowance 5/8 inch wide.
2. At the hemline, trim side seams to a scant 1/8 inch.
3. With the garment wrong side up, machine stitch 3/8 inch from the
edge. Trim close to the stitch line with a pair of applique scissors.
4. Place the garment hem into the hemming foot. Hold the fabric firmly
in front and behind the foot and pull the hem back and forth until
it's properly threaded.

(A hint from Claire Shaeffer's book: "When the hem begins at an end,
thread the hem into the foot about 2 inches from the end; then pull
the hem toward the front of the machine to begin on the end. If you
haven't trimmed the ends of the machine stitching, hold them in back
of the foot.")

5. Stitch the hem with either a straight or a zig-zag stitch


As for the seam guide, your best bet is just to keep your eye on it.
There are no tricks involved--just keep the edge of your fabric
essentially in line with it's markings. (Minor variations aren't going
to hurt the finished product.)

In her article on perfect seam lines, Corinna Gaster says: 

"If you have difficulties seeing your seam guide grooves on the throat
plate, then use an additional seam guide tool. There are many
selections to choose from, starting with your own machine
manufacturer's seam guide, to generic, magnetized guides that will
hold fast to the bottom of the sewing bed. You can also create an
inexpensive, yet effective seam guide yourself, but cutting a ½” wide
strip of Moleskin™ or Molefoam™ and adhere it to the correct seam
allowance line, making sure to extend the adhesive strip forward,
toward the front on the bed of the sewing machine. Quilters have used
this method for years to create a scant, ¼” seam allowancing for
patchwork piecing." ("In Search Of The Perfect Seam, Part 1"
http://www.bellaonline.com/articles/art2934.asp )

Since I'm not sure what exactly you're dissatisfied with when it comes
to your seams, it's difficult for me to give you specific tips.
However, the above article is an excellent primer in that area.

Jude, I hope this helps!

kriswrite

Additional Keywords Used

"industrial sewing machine" hem* foot
://www.google.com/search?hl=en&lr=&ie=ISO-8859-1&q=%22industrial+sewing+machine%22+hem*+foot

compare sewing machines industrial home
://www.google.com/search?hl=en&lr=&ie=ISO-8859-1&q=compare+sewing+machines+industrial+home&btnG=Google+Search

seam guide "how to"
://www.google.com/search?hl=en&lr=&ie=ISO-8859-1&q=seam+guide+%22how+to%22&btnG=Google+Search