Hi yesmam,
Choosing an instrument is so personal (e.g., sound, comfort, style,
experience) that it would be foolhardy for me to recommend one
particular Mandolin for you, but I can help you to make an informed
decision. There are two excellent websites which contain enough
information to keep you busy for the rest of the weekend. One is
"Mandozine" by Bruce Dix, and the other is the "Mandoline Cafe" (links
below). The good news is you should be able to purchase a nice
Mandolin at well below your maximum price by starting with the less
expensive A-style (teardrop) ($500 - 600) and after you hone your
skills, you'll be more knowledgeable and able to trade-up to the
F-style (scrolled).
MANDOLIN:
SYLLABICATION: manˇdoˇlin
PRONUNCIATION: mnd-ln, mndl-n
NOUN: A small lutelike instrument with a typically pear-shaped body
and a straight fretted neck, having usually four sets of paired
strings tuned in unison or octaves.
ETYMOLOGY: French mandoline, from Italian mandolino, diminutive of
mandola, lute, from French mandore, from Late Latin pandra,
three-string lute, from Greek pandoura.
OTHER FORMS: mandoˇlinist —NOUN
The American HeritageŽ Dictionary of the English Language: Fourth
Edition. 2000.
http://www.bartleby.com/61/50/M0075000.html
Buying your first mandolin:
"If you are a real beginner, and you are not sure what type of
mandolin playing you want to do, it is probably best to start off with
a flat top (or carved top) teardrop shaped instrument. It doesn't
matter whether it has a round hole or two f-holes like a violin,
though there are tonal differences. Even for bluegrass music you don't
have to begin with a scroll model (F style)."
"Mid-Missouri mandolins have a good reputation for beginners"
http://www.btinternet.com/~john.baldry/mando/buying.html
MANDOZINE BUYER'S GUIDE by Bruce Dix:
"For a beginner, the best advice is to choose an instrument that plays
easily, sounds good to you, and is affordable. That's it in a
nutshell. Let your ears and fingers--rather than styles, model
numbers, or brand names--be your guide. If you don't feel equipped to
make an intelligent choice, go shopping with a teacher or a trusted
mandolin-playing friend who can coach you. (Be aware that many
teachers in music stores get a percentage on any instruments they help
sell to their students, and so may not give perfectly objective
advice. If in doubt--ask. It never hurts to know the ground rules.)
It's best to play as many different mandolins as you can before you
set out for a music store, your checkbook cocked and the safety-catch
off. First you should have some hands-on experience. You don't need to
be an expert at this stage; the idea is just to get a basic sense of
what different mandolins feel and sound like. That way, you'll have a
personal frame of reference when you try to judge an instrument in a
store, even if you're relying on a friend to help you make your
decision. Mandolin Types"
http://www.mandozine.com/resources/buyersguide.php
A-STYLE mandolins: This designation has been used to describe any
mandolin roughly oval or teardrop in shape, possibly with points or
occasionally with a guitar-like waist. The designation "A" can be
applied to any mandolin construction style. Arched A-style mandolins
tend to be less expensive than arched F styles. The decorative
"scroll" found on the F-style mandolins is more labor intensive to
construct than the mostly symmetrical body of the A. Some feel this
allows the prospective buyer of a mandolin to get more functionality
for his or her money. Beginners like them for this reason also.
F-STYLE ("Florentine") mandolins: This designation applies almost
exclusively to arched or rarely to flat instruments. F-style generally
describes an instrument sporting a curlicue ("scroll"), lobe, or
prominent horn on the bass side of the body near the neck joint. The
classic Gibson style, the one most frequently emulated, features a
scroll on the bass side of the body and two points on the treble side;
very early Gibson F styles also had a point at the base of the scroll.
Because well-made F-style mandolins with carved scrolls tend to be
more expensive, they are generally less popular with beginners and
more casual enthusiasts.
http://www.mandolincafe.com/archives/faq.html#mandolintypesmandolin
"For starting out, a good A-style ( teardrop shape ) is the wisest
all-around choice."
http://mandolincafe.net/cgi-bin/ib3/ikonboard.cgi?s=3a87437cd2e0d970cf7323b93fd629fb;act=ST;f=12;t=6807;hl=classical+blue+grass
MANDOLIN FAQ:
http://www.mandolincafe.com/archives/faq.html
MANDOLIN DISCUSSION FORUM:
http://www.mandolincafe.com/lists.html
MANDOLINE BUILDERS:
http://www.mandolincafe.com/builders.html
MANDOLINE EYE CANDY (photos):
http://www.mandolincafe.com/archives/builders/
MANDOLINE:
"SCALE length of a Gibson A model is 14 1/8", or 35.8 cm. Stefan
Sobell's mandolins are about 14 3/8" or 36.5 cm
TUNED [GDAE] (the same as a fiddle). Sobells are bigger, and hence
have more sustain and bass. You will find this to be generally true-
larger instruments of the same type (just like big fiddles) are a bit
"boomier", and have more sustain and bass. It is very rare to find an
instrument with perfect balance of treble and bass, there is always an
emphasis. If the instrument is perfectly balanced, it seems to be
bland... almost as if to get equal volumes and tones something was
removed from one end rather than added. These were sort of "invented"
in the late 1800's... the story of mandolins is vast beyond belief.
Suffice it to say that Orville Gibson invented both modern "A" and "F"
models roughly at the turn of the century. Before this, you get the
round-back ones which are more visually similar to a Greek Bouzouki."
http://www.ceolas.org/instruments/cittern.html#MANDO
Co-Mando music files:
http://www.co-mando.com/
MID-MISSOURI MANDOLINS:
1123 Wilkes Blvd. #5
Columbia, MO 65201
Phone: (573) 875-1944
Fax: (573) 875-5714
info@midmomandolin.com
Call for the dealer nearest you! (573) 875-1944
"Mid-Missouri Mandolins are crafted in the age old tradition of people
using hand tools of chisels, rasps, and files. They are made with real
woods, all solid and hand selected for each instrument we make. Each
instrument is then hand assembled."
http://www.midmomandolin.com/
"I think you you can't go wrong with a mid missouri-- great value for
a solid wood mando."
http://mandolincafe.net/cgi-bin/ib3/ikonboard.cgi?s=3a87437cd2e0d970cf7323b93fd629fb;act=ST;f=12;t=7387;hl=classical+blue+grass
GIBSON WEBSITE:
http://www.gibson.com/
Additional Links:
Lots of links:
http://www.mandolincafe.com/links.html
Vintage Gibson A Model Guide:
http://www.mandolincafe.com/archives/gibsona/gibsona.html/
Vintage Gibson F-Style Guide:
http://www.mandolincafe.com/archives/gibsonf5.html/
I hope this helps. If you have any questions, please post a
clarification request before rating my answer.
Thank you,
hummer
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