Hi 69big,
You say "There is no leak while the vehicle is parked."
I recommend you have the cooling system pressured checked for external
leaks. To do this you need a tool which connects onto the radiator
filler neck. Since most people haven't got this tool, you probably
need to go to a garage and have the procedure done there. If nothing
shows up there, then check for signs of a milky solution on the oil
level dip stick, which will indicate a possible internal leak of
coolant into the oil pan. Note bene: If a vehicle makes a lot of short
trips, the milky solution will show up on the dip stick due to excess
condensation build up in the oil. Just because the milky solution
shows up on the dip stick, it doesn't necessarily mean you have an
internal leak.
If the system doesn't appear to hold pressure with no external leaks,
then I recommend bringing the engine up to operating temperature, then
pulling the spark plugs and pressurizing the cooling system for
approximately 10-15 minutes. If the coolant leak is bad enough, it
will seep out of one of the spark plug holes, indicating an internal
leak. The leak that shows up internally will appear as a whitish
colour on the ground electrode of the spark plug related to the
affected cylinder. Also, if the coolant is leaking badly enough it
will show as excess white smoke out the tail pipe, even after the
engine warms up. So, if the white exhaust smoke shows ALL the time,
then it indicates a leak into one of the cylinders.
If/when your mechanic finds and locates this definite internal leak,
the next step is to have the engine torn down to inspect the intake
manifold gaskets and possible removal of cylinder heads to inspect the
cylinder head gaskets for definite signs of deterioration. Also, the
cylinder heads should be checked by a machine shop for signs of cracks
or warping.
"He tested for oil in the radiator"
This is very unlikely because the crank case system is not pressurized
enough to cause a leak of engine oil into the cooling system. The
pressure in the cooling system is greater than what you would
encounter in the oil pan.
"it seems to me that he should have checked for antifreeze in the oil
instead" You're dead on! Have your mechanic perform the above
diagnostics in the order per above.
If you aren't mechanically inclined, this is going to cost you
anywhere from $300 to $1500, depending on the test results. If it's
just an intake manifold gasket seepage, perhaps $400; but rebuilt
cylinder heads are, on an average, $500-$700 each plus gaskets, plus
labour. I'm assuming you're Canadian because of your metric
references, and am providing estimated costs in Canadian funds.
My husband says a vehicle of this age mightn't be worth putting such a
large repair investment into it. Just his personal observation.
I wish you well,
revbrenda1st
Search strategy:
picking my super mechanic husband's brain |
