Hi,

My wife runs a small shop selling bath and body products (soaps etc.)
She needs to take a load of pictures for her on-line store but would
like them on a white background.

The question here is what is the best technique for for taking
pictures so that they are on a white background and require the least
amount of editing in Photoshop. She used to be a pro. Graphics
Designer so is well versed in Photoshop but would like to do the least
amound of work possible.

In previous tests we have not been able to set up the shots so there
is suitable light without washout or too much shadow.

Any help is appreciated.

23v-ga,

I've had hundreds of photographs published as step-by-step book
illustrations, all of which were shot against white backgrounds. While
you can eliminate shadows with enough lights and reflectors, I've
found the simplest method to be this:

Shoot outside with the product placed on a white sheet or white poster
board (available from office stores). Choose an overcast day
(eliminates shadows) or work in the shadows of a large structure, like
a house, in the early morning or late afternoon.

You didn't mention whether you are shooting a digital camera or 35mm,
but the main problem of shooting against a white background is that it
fools the automatic exposure mechanism, and causes meters to read
incorrectly (this causes the wash-out).

Basically, all light meters operate by averaging light to the middle
of the photographic gray scale (18% reflectance. For example, if you
take a photograph of a solid white wall, without over-riding the
automatic exposure system, the photo will come out gray. The same
thing happens if you photograph a black wall. You compensate by
adjusting the f-stop or the shutter speed, which in the case of
shooting against white, means letting in far more light than the
metering system suggests (usually 3 stops more). You can do this by
increasing the exposure time or the aperture. You can approach this
scientifically, by buying a photo gray card (18% reflectance) from any
decent photography store and using it to calibrate the settings
whenever you shoot, or you can just experiment with "overexposing" to
get the proper whites and contrast.

Some excellent links explaining the photographic zone system and how
light meters work (or don't work) follows:

A simplified zone system for making good exposures by Norman Koren 

http://www.normankoren.com/zonesystem.html

Photoworkshops - Introduction to 18% Middle Tone.

http://photoworkshops.biz/lesson2.htm

and from Active Image Manipulation for Deskop Publishing

http://www.aim-dtp.net/aim/calibration/middle_gray/

I'd also like to suggest an excellent book by Peter Laytin, "Creative
Camera Control."

I hope this answers your question, and let me repeat the key point. 

Google search terms used:

18% reflectance

Sorry for not getting back sooner, I was in a car crash and have been
in hospital. Thanks for the answer it was great and the comments
wonderful too.

As a designer who makes photo objects frequently, let me explain my
own method. Morris' technique is "the" way to go when you wish to use
the images, as is, without much manipulation in a graphics program. If
you're planning graphics editing, there are a few minor differences
which can make the editing job easier.

I examine each object and decide what color is not present. I have a
number of sheets of matte colored paper, gift wrap actually, which I
can use as the background. I select a sheet that is a complete
contrast to the edges of the object. I use a tri-fold "reflector",
just a piece of cardboard which I place behind the object. I cover the
reflector with another sheet of matching color paper. I use a pair of
inexpensive gooseneck lamps with 100 watt bulbs on dimmer switches to
light my subjects. I prefer to eliminate shadows as much as possible,
adding them uniformly in Photoshop, instead.

Since I also use a digital camera, as you've indicated in the title of
your question, I know how easy it is to take shots from several
angles, try various exposures or settings, or move the object between
shots to obtain the best angles. I use a tabletop tripod, generally.

When I bring the images into Photoshop, I use Corel's KnockOut 2
Plug-In to quickly produce a photo object on a transparent background.
Since I've chosen a contrasting background to begin with, it's quite a
simple process for this sophisticated filter to eliminate the original
 background. I bring the image back into Photoshop, placing it on its
own layer. I've found it very effective to occasionally use an empty
white pedestal as a background, sized to match the object, when I want
a little more of a display for an object. I use the Photoshop lighting
effects filter to add just a bit of directional light, then create a
complimentary shadow if desired. I save the project in .psd format
with all the layers, then a flattened copy as a jpg at 600 dpi. I use
a photo quality printer to print the image on glossy photo paper.

KnockOut Review and Tutorial
About.com Graphics Software
http://graphicssoft.about.com/library/extra/blko_000607.htm

Corel KnockOut 2 - Procreate
http://www.procreate.com/go/knockout/

- larre -