Hi Rusty!
What an interesting question!
As with any natural product, the question of "does it help with
wrinkles" can only be answered with "depends on who you ask".
Uncle Harry's Natural Products says it does:
"Rosehip Seed Oil Vs Aging or Damaged Skin
Rosehip seed oil has remarkable skin rejuvenating properties. It is
extremely effective against irregular skin pigmentation, burns, and
early aging wrinkles. In fact, Rosehip seed oil is recommended for
people who spend much of their time in the sun as it reduces the
appearance of wrinkles and premature aging often associated with
exposure to the sun. Scientific research has shown that the oil
contains substances that retard the aging process of the skin. A five
month study of women living in sunny climates who showed symptoms of
photoaging, or surface wrinkles, brown spots, eyelids, etc, revealed
that applying Rosehip seed oil everyday actually worked in causing
surface wrinkles to disappear, spots to fade until, at the end of the
fourth month, the disappearance became almost complete. Skin presented
a smooth and fresh aspect and the spots had almost disappeared."
Uncle Harry's also discusses the presence of Vitamin A, claiming that
Rosehip Seed Oil contains a natural form of Retinol:
"Rosehip Seed oil & Trans-retinoic Acid (Vitamin A)
Rosehip seed oil is an excellent source of topical trans-retinoic acid
(vitamin A) in a natural form. Retinoic acid, found in Tretinoin, also
called Retinol (Vitamin A), is a topical application for treating a
variety of skin disorders which has been well researched and
recognized for almost 30 years. Synthetic Tretinoin is a very strong
substance and must be applied under medical supervision with possible
undesirable side effects. Rosehip Seed Oil, however, produces all the
benefits of Tretinoin, but without the undesirable effects since it is
in a natural state as part of a complex system of unsaturated fatty
acids. Therefore, its action is controlled and slowly released by
nature, eliminating the rash of overdoses."
Rosehip Oil for Skin Rejuvenation
http://www.uncleharrys.com/infobase/product/ROSEHIPS.HTM
The Rosa Bay Company makes similar claims:
"It also is very rich in vitamins especially vitamin A, which has been
proven to have a very beneficial effect on skin, as well as a related
substance, retinoic acid, which gives rose hip oil its remarkable skin
repairing and rejuvenating properties. "
[...]
"Rosabay rosehip seed oil is recommended for people who spend much of
their time in the sun as it reduces the appearance of wrinkles and
premature ageing often associated with exposure to the sun."
Rosa Bay
http://www.rosabay.co.nz/rhoil.htm
RoseHipOil.com claims a "Medical Scientific Discovery", and cites a
paper called "Contributions to Identification and Application of
Active Components Contained in Rosa Aff. Rubiginosa":
ROSA MOSQUETA ROSE HIP OIL - A MEDICAL SCIENTIFIC DISCOVERY
http://rosehipoil.com/r-scientific.htm
Searching Google for that paper yielded only mentions of the paper on
other skin care pages and homeopathic remedy sites, but not the paper
itself:
Google Search Results - (link fed to MakeAShorterLink.com)
http://makeashorterlink.com/?V30E52221
I did, however, manage to find a very brief extract from that paper
(as well as two others) at TheSkinsource.com:
"Application on surgical scars Extract from Contributions to
Identification and Application of Active Components contained in Rosa
rubiginosa, by Dr. B. Pareja and Dr. H. Kehl.
Ten women were selected who had suffered unilateral or bilateral
mastectomy. Applications of rose hip oil were made, starting on the
day when the surgical stitches were removed. After washing the area
with tepid water and soap, the oil was applied by soft massage. After
three months of applying twice daily (morning and evening) it was
noted that the scars were less apparent, without lumps and that skin
elasticity as well as the colour of the area had improved
significantly. We carried out these observations and the treating
doctors found that the skin conditions were improving considerably,
allowing implantations of prosthesis or plastic surgery in far better
conditions than with patients who had not been treated."
Rose Hip Oil Assists Medical Treatments
http://www.theskinsource.com/Document/rosehips.htm
Herbalist David Brill says Rose Hip Seed Oil is "soothing" to aging
skin, but mentions nothing about it preventing or reducing wrinkles:
"I have not heard of Rosehip seed oil for preventing scarring, can you
give me a reference for this? I do know that the essential oil of Rose
has been traditionally used in skin care products, such as skin
creams, powders and lotions because it is soothing to the dry,
sensitive or aging skin."
Ask the Herbalist
http://www.herbnet.com/ask%20the%20herbalist/asktheherbalist_questions%20on%20scars.htm
Cottage Hill Soaps suggests Rose Hip Seed Oil in soaps to treat:
"dry, scaly, fissured skin; dull skin; eczema; psoriasis;
over-pigmented skin; scars; prophylactic after burns; trauma; ulcers;
ulcerated veins; use as 10% additive"
Carrier Oils and Their Properties (Rose Hip Seed is near the bottom)
http://www.cottagehillsoaps.com/properties.html
Aroma Trading notes the presence of trans-retinoic acid (Vitamin A)
and claims that treatment with Rose Hip Oil results in disappearance
of wrinkles in 16 weeks. The page also includes a "Technical
Specifications" chart:
"Besides non-saturated fatty acids, the presence of carotenoids,
flavonoids, vitamin C, o ketonic compound (namely
3-penten-propyl-ketone) and, recently, trans-retinoic acid has been
detected. The latter could be responsible for some of the
pharmacological and therapeutic properties of Rosehip Seed Oil.
Among dermatological studies:
* Application on aged skin
On some skin troubles like superficial wrinkles, chestnut spots and
ephelides, good results have been obtained. After 16 weeks of
treatment, wrinkles disappeared and spots become imperceptible."
Rosehip Seed Oil
http://www.aromatrading.co.uk/rosehip/
DrLam.com, which calls itself "An Insider's Guide to Nutritional and
Anti-Aging Medicine", has this to say:
"Extensive studies have shown rosehip seed oil to have a positive
effect on scars, stretch marks, sunburn, and aging skin. Because of
its high fatty acid content, Rosehip seed oil penetrates the skins
upper layers very quickly, making it a good moisturizer."
Youthful Skin Protocol
http://www.drlam.com/A3R_brief_in_doc_format/youthful_skin_protocol.cfm
Does Rose Hip Seed Oil really contain retinoic acid? Again, it
depends on who you ask. This abstract suggests that there is, as yet,
no conclusive evidence:
[Rose Hip Seed Oil] "This oil in particular has created great interest
and there are numerous clinical studies on this oil from South America
that demonstrate that it has cicatrising activity and solutions to
hyperpigmentation. The debate on whether or not the oil contains a
source of retinoic acid is still in progress, but it would certainly
help to explain some of the excellent reported properties if a modern
analysis could detect this molecule."
HERBAL MEDICINE FOR THE SKIN. THEIR CHEMISTRY AND EFFECTS ON SKIN AND
MUCOUS MEMBRANES
http://www.dweckdata.com/Published/Rome_lecture.htm
Further evidence of this uncertainty can be found near the middle of
the following abstract:
"The presence of retinoic acid is disputed, however. An analysis sheet
from Siber Hegner on “Aceite de Rosa mosqueta Lote 107” by SGS Chile
Ltda. states that the analysis of a batch of rosehip seed oil
contained 0.83 mg of trans-retinoic acid/100 g of oil. This would
explain quite conveniently many of the properties of this oil.
Unfortunately, a study later carried out at King’s College London
University using rosehip seed oil from other sources did not confirm
these findings."
Formulating the 100% Natural Product
http://www.dweckdata.com/Published/Formulating_natural_products.htm
I have been unable to locate *any* complete and definitive studies to
support either contention, alas. The jury is simply still out on the
matter.
On a personal note, I use rose hip oil myself as a moisturizer - it
feels wonderful to dry and cracked skin, and is also a very effective
post-sun soother. Whether or not it actually does reduce wrinkles (I
can't tell either way just yet!), it's a handy remedy to have around
if you're prone to sunburn or dry skin.
I hope what I've found for you helps you make up your own mind on the
subject! If I can be of further assistance, please don't hesitate to
ask!
missy-ga
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