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Q: golf club ( No Answer,   4 Comments )
Question  
Subject: golf club
Category: Sports and Recreation > Outdoors
Asked by: birkett7-ga
List Price: $5.00
Posted: 11 May 2004 03:14 PDT
Expires: 10 Jun 2004 03:14 PDT
Question ID: 344524
what is the average loft for a 3-wood.  Specifically I"m interested in
getting a Titleist 980F fairway wood for my boss, and it comes in the
following lofts: 15°, 17°, 19°, 21. What is average?
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Subject: Re: golf club
From: stratus2000-ga on 11 May 2004 09:05 PDT
 
The Clubfitting Department

Fairway Woods
General Loft and Numerical Designations

Click here for numerical chart:
Basic Guidelines & Comparisons 

An Overview of Fairway Woods

There is much overlap and confusion nowadays amongst fairway wood
designations. The factors that determined traditional designations
were as follows: Head Size, Loft, Shaft Length, Lie and Head Weight. 
Many woods now blend factors from one type of wood with another to
achieve specific performance parameters. There are no set standards.
Weight distribution in the head often plays as important of a role in
shot trajectory as does the loft. Shaft flex and bend point also
factor in. Some 4 woods will hit higher than some 5 and 6 woods. Some
3 woods are really 2 woods, etc. etc.

Some well-known woods such as Callaway's Heavenwood are hybrids. The
Heavenwood has a 6-wood size head with a 7-wood loft and a 5-wood
length. This makes for a better long-range, lofted trouble wood than
does a straight 7-wood. It can be used in conjunction with a 4-wood
better than a normal, shorter 7-wood. The yardage gap between the
clubs won't be as pronounced. Many woods are not purely one thing or
another therefore they are designated on their sole by their degree of
loft, not by a traditional wood number.

Another reason that many manufacturers now use degree numbers instead
of traditional numbers is that market analysis clearly shows that
golfers are reluctant to leave behind the concept of 1 - 3 - 5 wood
sets even when their game cries out for 2, 4, 6 or 8 woods to fill
crucial gaps. A "strong three" or a "fairway driver" sells better than
a 2 wood. A "strong 7" sells better than a 6. This consumer confusion
and reluctance is changing slowly.

New technology in head design and in graphite shafts is deeming old
standards irrelevant. Modern 2 woods hit more easily than old 3 woods
due to weight distribution patterns and shaft selection. They are
often as long off of a tee as were traditional drivers of a short time
ago. The use of a traditional 3-wood in conjunction with an
overlength, extra-light, jumbo driver leaves too large of a gap in
available yardages. Dropping down on the tee to a 3-wood gives up too
much distance. Many players are switching to 2 and 3+ woods and then
going with 4 and 5+ woods. These serve as easy, safe versions of
traditional 3-woods. A long, graphite-shafted 7-wood is then given the
role of a traditional 5 wood. The trajectory is higher and the landing
is softer.

The odds are that the woods set of the future will be a Jumbo,
overlength Driver combined with a 2-wood/fairway driver, 4-wood and 6
or 7-wood. Research indicates that the majority of golfers hit short
woods much better than they do long irons, consequently 9-woods will
become more prevalent. This, however, could all be upset by the
growing popularity of the new, fusion clubs - wood/iron combinations
such Taylor Made's Rescues.

Basic Guidelines & Comparisons
(Remember, there are actually no set, industry standards.)

Club #
 Loft Length Description & Notes
 
 1   wood
(Driver)
  6.5 to 14  degrees steel - 43"
graphite - 44" & up
  8 to 11 degree range is standard. Senior Drivers are often 12
degrees. Ladies' drivers are generally 12 to 14 degrees.
 2   wood   12 to 13  degrees steel - 42 1/2"
graphite - 43 to 44" Should be midway between a 1 & 3 wood. Also known
as a Fairway Driver or a Grass  Driver when given the a head size
approximating that of a driver.
 3+ wood  13 to 14  degrees steel - 42 1/4"
graphite - 43 1/2" Also known as a Strong 3 - ideally 1/4 inch longer
than a standard 3 wood with a slightly larger, lighter head though
often only the loft is lessened.
 3   wood  15 to 16  degrees steel - 42"
graphite - 43" The traditional second wood in a golfer's bag - a
mainstay for 90% of the world.
4+ wood  16 to 17  degrees steel - 41 3/4"
graphite - 42 3/4" Strong 4 - A slightly easier, shorter 3 wood. Ideal
for those using a long 2 wood as well. Now popular with Adams,
Orlimar, etc.
 4   wood  17 to 18  degrees steel - 41 1/2"
graphite - 42 1/2" For decades, a favorite of tour pros who were good
with 1 & 2 irons. Safer than a 3 wood, longer than a 5 - an easy club
to use.
5+ wood   18 to 19  degrees steel - 41 1/4"
graphite - 42 1/4" Strong 5 - Essentially a 4 wood 
 5   wood  19 to 21  degrees steel - 41"
graphite - 42" The easy hitting long wood. Good for approach shots and
easy tee shots.
 6   wood  21 to 23  degrees steel - 40 1/2"
graphite - 41 1/2" Rarely seen number - many 5 & 7  woods are actually 6 woods. 
7+ wood  23 to 24  degrees steel - 40 1/4"
graphite - Strong 7 - Often used in lieu of 6 woods. Shaft should be
longer than a regular seven. A good compliment to 4 woods.
 7   wood  23 to 26  degrees steel - 40"
graphite - 41" Many variations on the 7 wood exist - it is the
traditional Trouble Club for heavy rough
 8   wood  26 to 27  degrees No 
standard length Virtually never seen. Short 7's and long 9's are used
instead. A few are manufactured.
 9   wood
  28 to 29  degrees No 
standard length 9 woods vary from being nearly 7 woods to being easy,
wedge-style woods. Excellent short "trouble" woods.
11, 13, 15 woods
 29 to 38
degrees No 
standard length Several manufacturers produce higher lofted woods.
These are mostly intended for those who hate hitting irons.
Manufacturers vary greatly on specs for these clubs.


Golf Club Review's General Recommendations
Fairway Woods

http://www.swingweight.com/fairway_wood_designations.htm
Subject: Re: golf club
From: stratus2000-ga on 11 May 2004 09:24 PDT
 
Loft is the measure of the angle of the club head 
The greater the loft, the greater the angle on the face of the head
and the more control but less distance
The less loft, the greater distance, but at the risk of less control 
The slower you swing the club, the higher loft you will need.
Subject: Re: golf club
From: stratus2000-ga on 11 May 2004 09:38 PDT
 
Fairway Woods

BY GEOFF GREIG
Because of the shaft length and lack of loft fairway woods pose
problems to a large number of golfers. Here is what you need to
remember to be successful with your fairway woods:

1. Hit down on the ball for better contact and trajectory.
2. Let the club take care of the distance.


Trying to lift the ball into the air is the primary cause of topped
and fat shots with fairway woods. The goal is to have the middle of
the clubface strike the middle back of the ball and continue downward
so it brushes the grass AFTER impact. Do not attempt to get under the
ball (it is sitting on the ground). Hit slightly downward on the back
of the ball and let the loft of the club and the backspin from the
downward blow get the ball airborn. As with all full swing golf shots
when the ball is on the ground, strike the little ball first (the golf
ball) then strike the big ball (the earth).

There is no need to swing the fairway wood any harder than you would a
7 iron. The extra length and less loft will propel the ball further.
All you need to do is concentrate on good contact. You do your job and
let the club do its job. Think of each club as a tool, you do your
best to make the same swing each time and let the different tools take
care of the different distances and trajectories. See you next time,
hopefully on the green.

http://golfcircuit.com/instruction/tip.asp?id=27

How to buy a fairway wood:
http://www.all-sports-posters.com/golf-driver.html
Subject: Re: golf club
From: birkett7-ga on 11 May 2004 10:37 PDT
 
this is great, thank you!

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