Hello
Just "short" comments.
The Mitsu GTO is upgrade model from the VR4 aka as 3000 GT also sold
as Dodge Stealth.
It has a V6 DOHC Biturbo AWD&AWS.
Dechiper the codes needs deep knowledge and is nearly impossible
without full VIN ( even Mitshu dealers canīt tell you what version it
is and equiped with what and sometimes you ordered all the different
aviable spares to make sure you got the right part to bring the car
from the shoplifter within a resonable time )
My guess is based on the german codes: E is europe; Z16A is 4WD/AWS
chassis; M is the Year ( should be 1991 )
IFIK the US MKII( LHD ), Jap/Aus/UK ( RHD ) GTO are the same cars sold
in germany/swiss/austria as 3000 GT manual base entry ;)
In germany they came with the large G13 Turbos, the Getrag manual and
had upgraded brake systems ( for repeatet high speed brake ability
standard brakes would have meltet away, however those brakes are still
useless compared to the ones from Porsche and warped discs where
normal on those cars even if they had a speedlimit set to "only" 250
km/h).
However donīt nail me i think your trany code is for a automatic wich
where option in germany and only aviable with the 285 HP G9 Biturbo
This car is loaded with electric gimmiks ( Little Plasma screen for
the airconditon ) and the 110 amp alternator is mandatory to keep the
systems alive.
However the 110 amps are the maximum output mostly hit at 3-4000 engine rpm.
At idle most alternators from that decade only produced some 20-25%
from the nominal max output wich is mostly enough to keep the systems
alive at a cold night without drawing the battery.
On the ABS topic and reguarding the way you ask ( a circuit diagram is
not really helpfull to nail the problem ( better said nearly useless
), the ABS CPU is from "Nippon" wich is a JV from
Bosch&Nissan&Nabco&Nippen&Melco(Mitsubishi electro conductors wih is a
sister to Mitshu automotive ) today aka as Zexel) i would recomend to
bring the car to a Mitshu technician.
Those 3000 are very loaded and need special tools for the simplest
things doing in a moderate time.( Trust me i once had to work on them,
they make a loaded Merc., BMW, Porsche or Ferrari looking real nice to
work on ).
If you are in the US then avoid Flatratemechanics ( aka as Flatlinemechanics ).
However the net has some 3000 GT relatet sites, bulletin boards and
newsgroups ( easy to find ) and this topic isnīt realy new:
This is from the 3SI Q&A ( http://www.planetkc.com/fatbiker/faq.htm )
http://www.planetkc.com/fatbiker/brakes.htm#Why%20does%20my%20ABS%20light%20come
*** Why does my ABS light come on? ***
Typical question is "sometimes while driving, the ANTI-LOCK light
turns on for no apparent reason".
First off, don't panic yet. Check your Owner's Manual and you'll see
that this occurence is so common that Mitsubishi felt compelled to
discuss it in black and white. Their answer is to stop the car, switch
off, switch on again, and start driving, and that should make the
light go out. If the light does not go out at that point, then you
have a problem. (By the way, I bought my car at 168K klicks, it now
has 231K klicks, and my ABS light has done this four times).
Your Stealth provides you with a visual ABS diagnostic every time you
turn the key. Next time you hop in and get ready to start the engine,
check out the instrument cluster's orange ANTI-LOCK light (middle
group, 3rd from the bottom). The way that that light flashes at you
when you start your car is telling you something about your ABS. (In
the following description, replace "2 flashes" - which is for an FWD -
with "4 flashes" for a turbo, if applicable).
Turn your key to the first click (ON or ACC I think, I'm not in the
garage right now). Your light should flash twice in about one second,
and then go out. (All your other idiot lights come on too, but ignore
them).
Turn your key to START (i.e. start the engine). While the key is in
START, the light should be on solid.
Release the key back to ON or ACC or whatever. The light should go
out, and then flash twice again, and then go out.
That is the "all is well" pattern. The shop manual lists at least
three other possible patterns, each of which is indicating its own
error, and each of which is accompanied by a trouble-shooting
flowchart which usually ends with "take out a bank loan and replace
everything".
I've seen the light on a turbo model, and there is no problem seeing
the flashing, it is quite obvious. On my R/T, and on one other R/T
that I checked, the flashing is not as obvious, more like the light
comes on, dims a bit, gets bright again, then goes out.
There is one more self-diagnostic check that you can look for. The
first time that you get up to about 4 MPH after starting your engine,
you ought to hear a quiet whining hum that lasts about 2 seconds.
Sitting in the driver's seat, it sounds like it's behind the radio,
but it's probably somewhere under the hood. If you have the radio
turned off, you'll have no problem hearing it. This is yet another
self-test that your ABS system is doing.
Other usefull links:
http://www.gtouk.org.uk
http://www.fronty.demon.co.uk
http://www.3si.org
http://www.stealth316.com
http://www.3sxperformance.com/faq.asp
http://www.stillen.com
Grüsse aus germany |
