Hi timespacette,
Thank you for an interesting question.
RE: Killing lombardy poplars
http://lists.tree-care.info/uktc/archive/2001/msg00795.php
Question:
"Does anybody have an opinion on the best time of year to successfully kill
the root system of a Lombardy poplar so there is no subsequent sucker growth
after removal?
What I am looking for is the best time to do the procedure...some say at bud
break, others at the end of June. What do you think?"
Answers:
"FC Field Book No. 8 `The Use Of Herbicides In The Forest` should help you.
In broad terms it advocates the use of either Glyphosate,Triclopyr or
Ammonium Sulphamate. It states that treatmets at any time of year are
effective but that they are more so within one week of felling and/or to
freshly cut stumps. It goes on to say that its best to avoid spring sap
flow. In any event in my experience you can expect to have to make several
applications as one is unlikely to result in a kill. It is also worth
treating any suckers which may appear - they usually do!"
and,
"Needs a bit of planning but how about ring barking with an axe using
a downward cut so producing a catch point for a brushwood killer to
enter the cambium. If this was done about 2 months prior to the fell
hydraulic action should drag the chemical down into the root system."
*****
Ring Barking Tool
http://www.tech.plym.ac.uk/sme/dsgn313/FirstAssignments.htm
"To ensure production of good quality timber, it is common practice in
UK conifer forests to kill selected trees (sometimes 20% of the total)
and allow the remainder to grow to maturity. Presently, selected trees
may be killed by the use of a chemical injected into the main stem
during the growing season. Although very effective. the chemical is
both toxic and expensive and its use raises objections on grounds of
conservation etc.
An alternative approach for killing selected trees is to 'ring bark'
the main stem, ie to remove a complete 360 degree ring of bark through
the cambium layer using some form of hand tool. Such a tool is
expected to have worthwhile economic and conservation advantages over
the chemical method."
Ring barking:
http://www.bonsai4me.com/AdvTech/ATLayering.html
"Use a sharp knife to cut two parallel slits at least 2 times the
diameter of the branch around the circumference of the branch. Remove
the ring of bark between these two cuts and the underlying cambium
layer (which is green and 'soft'). Make the ringbarking point just
below the section of the parent trees' branch that roots are required,
if it is possible try, to make the point of ringbarking just below an
old leafnode as it will contain many adventitious buds. Do not be
tempted to leave a strip of bark across the ring-barking as this can
allow the parent tree to bridge the air-layering and no new roots will
be produced, for the same reason, ensure the ring-barking is wide
enough so the parent tree is unable to bridge the gap as it heals.
The alternative method to ring-barking is the tourniquet. This is
suitable for species that are unable to cope with the removal of a
complete ring of bark. A piece of wire is wrapped very tightly around
the branch below the proposed rooting site, as the branch grows the
tourniquet bites into the bark and then the cambium layer slowly
interrupts the flow of nutrients from the leaves down to the roots.
The tourniquet method however is slower to work and more vigorous
species can bridge the tourniquet as they grow resulting in a failure
to root."
and:
Ring Bark Air Layering
http://www.actionvideo.freeserve.co.uk/layering.html
"This is a slightly more dramatic method than the tourniquet. When I
began in bonsai, I thought that it looked like a good way to kill the
tree. It involves removing the bark for a length of about 1" to 2" all
the way around the trunk or branch that is going to form the new plant
(ring barking). The edges should be a clean cut and right down to the
harder wood beneath. Any remaining soft sappy tissue, the cambium
layer, must be scraped down to wood. Otherwise it provides a nutrient
path and hinders rooting or calluses over again completely."
=================================================
Get to the root to get rid of the sprouts
http://www.sacbee.com/static/archive/home/gardening/garden_detective/2001/0714.html
"Q: Two years ago we planted two Lombardy poplars in our back yard
(not knowing anything about the tree). We removed them last year after
neighbors complained about their invasive roots. Any bit of root left
is continuing to send up sprouts every few days. Is there anything we
can use to kill the roots permanently without damage to surrounding
plants?
A: By cutting these root sprouts every few days the root pieces will
finally run out of energy and stop sprout production, says UC master
gardener Bill Pierce. This must be done every few days. By treating
the stump of the cut sprouts with 41 percent undiluted Roundup you can
kill the root.
Be aware, however, that one root may send up several sprouts that must
be treated individually before the root absorbs enough chemical to
expire.
Roundup is a nonselective herbicide and will damage any plant it
touches; therefore, careful application is critical. Wear rubber
gloves when you apply the chemical and use a sponge-type paintbrush
for best results."
=================================================
Q: What chemicals could you recommend to kill off silver poplar?
http://www.ext.nodak.edu/extnews/hortiscope/tree/poplar.htm
"I am in New Zealand so this tree gets a real long season and the
suckers it sends up are taking over. Are the suckers independent of
the main trunk? Do I need to cut and poison each one?
A: The silver poplar -- Populus alba -- is a tough tree that
withstands most stresses in the environment, including but not limited
to having the roots covered with blacktop or concrete for a parking
lot, compaction from continuous vehicle traffic, salt spray from snow
covered streets, and more. Killing it will not be easy. You want to
get a systemic herbicide that will translocate through the vascular
system. As extensive as the roots are on this species, you will have
to likely fight it for a couple of years. Spray the foliage that comes
up with a product that contains glyphosate (Roundup in the U.S.).
Allow the sucker to sprout to a couple of feet in height if you can,
then spray it completely. The material will kill any green vegetation
it touches. Material that simply burns the foliage back is not
effective in getting complete control and will only frustrate you."
=================================================
Forest Preserve District of Cook County (Illinois)
http://www.newton.dep.anl.gov/natbltn/001-099/nb016.htm
A tree is a living organism much like the human body. Just as your
body is made up of countless millions of tiny cells, so the root system,
the trunk and the foliage of a tree are composed of cells, and each of
these three groups performs a function vital to the tree.
Directly underneath the bark of a tree trunk is a layer of these tiny cells
called the "cambium layer", or the growing layer. Although no thicker
than tissuepaper, yet through this thin film passes all the food elements
which make it possible for the tree to live and grow.
If a tree is "girdled" -- the bark removed from a ring completely
encircling the trunk -- the cambium layer is either removed or exposed
to the drying effects of the air, and the tree dies. If the cambium layer is
cut by a blaze or notch hacked into the tree, a wound is made which
corresponds to a deep cut in your arm, and the cells in the cambium
cannot function until the wound has healed. This may require months,
or even years, depending upon the size of the wound. Until the wound
has healed completely, the tree is subject to attack by fungus -- wood-
rotting diseases -- just as a wound on your body is subject to infection.
=================================================
I answered a simliar question "How to kill a tree" which can be found
at the following link:
http://answers.google.com/answers/threadview?id=360604#a
keyword search:
kill lombardy poplar tree
kill poplar tree
kill poplar tree without cutting down
how to kill lombardy poplar tree
Best regards,
tlspiegel |
