Clarification of Answer by
tlspiegel-ga
on
24 Jun 2004 13:58 PDT
Hi happytobeme,
I've further researched the possibilites for you, and the information
I provided is listed in no particular order, however - the first
option I've listed might be the ***only*** thing that will work.
I spoke to a young lady named Jennifer, and asked her many questions.
What she indicated to me is for your situation and condition in a
densely wooded and shaded area it will work. :)
The company is located in Northern Oh (Cleveland). She asked me to
have you call, and because Brian Madden is very busy this time of year
- leave your phone number and he will call you back.
The following information WILL work in a highly shaded/densely wooded
area. I spoke with the company listed in the article. The company
doesn't have a website up yet, and there is no 800#. Brian Madden is
the person to contact if you are interested.
MADDEN BROTHERS INC
66 PEARL RD
BRUNSWICK, OH 44212
Phone: 330-220-1886
SEEDING: Success In All The Techniques
http://www.forester.net/ecm_0201_seeding.html
"There are many ways of getting seed into the ground. Knowing what you
want to achieve helps determine which will work best."
[edit]
"Brian Madden, who oversees the blower-seeder division for Madden
Brothers in Cleveland, OH, has "seed it all," including terraseeding,
hydroseeding, seed-and-straw methods. "But we try to promote
terraseeding the most. Because it combines organic materials with seed
and fertilizer, the process helps seed germination. Terraseeding?s
better for erosion control; if it rains right after seeding, the
compost holds the seed mixture to the ground.
"For residential work we prefer terraseeding, because we guarantee all
our lawns," Madden continues. "There have been times when we?ve had to
go back and redo hydroseeding. Part of the problem is that the
hydroseeding mulch is only an eighth of an inch thick, and it?s only
paper; if the homeowner doesn?t water it, it dries out and doesn?t
germinate well. With terraseeding, we add compost with the seed, and
it doesn?t have to be watered as much. Plus, most new-home owners have
a clay soil, and you can?t put a lawn on that without some amendment."
The Madden Brothers? terraseeding crew is sometimes called out to
correct others? hydroseeding. On one project, Madden recalls, "the
client?s landscaper had hydroseeded a new lawn for them the previous
year. Over winter, the lawn settled. It was all uneven. We blew the
terraseed mix about 2 inches thick and leveled the whole lawn. Because
they had no irrigation system, the client?s neighbor said theirs would
never look like his golf-course-type ?perfect? lawn. But in July, even
with drought conditions, the lawn we put in was still green and had to
be cut just like the neighbor?s!"
When terraseeding in northern Ohio, Madden uses 60% specific Kentucky
bluegrass and 40% specific perennial rye. "We don?t use anything with
less than a 90% germination rate, and our mix contains minimal inert
matter. We use eight to 10 pounds of seed per 1,000 square feet. For
shady locations in a yard, we use red fescues. Some homeowners want
wildflower areas; we blow those in too."
Although terraseeding comprises about 90% of Madden Brothers?s
business, the firm still gets calls for other methods. "We blow in
crown vetch for roadsides, using perennial rye as a carrier, because
vetch takes so long to grow. However, for a large commercial area, or
if the Ohio Department of Transportation calls for it, we will
hydroseed.
"Sometimes we use PennMulch hydroseed put in pellet form. The water
expands the pellets, which create a protective sheet atop the seeds.
We?ll also do seed-straw for rough grade construction, or for new
street construction, in that strip 50 feet from the right of way.
Seed-straw remains the most cost-effective method for temporary
seeding."
=================================================
Growing Grass in the Shade
http://www.lowes.com/lkn?action=howTo&p=LawnGarden/GrassShade.html&rn=RightNavFiles/rightNavLawnGarden
The area under tree canopies provides little sun and water. Grass also
has a very tough time competing with trees for nutrients from the
soil. One option is to get a tree pro to remove some lower tree limbs
or thin the crowns of the trees to let more light in. There?s still no
guarantee that grass will get established.
http://www.lowes.com/lkn?action=howTo&p=LawnGarden/Turf_grass/Fine_Fescue.html
================================================
Clemson Extension - Growing Grass in Shade
http://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheets/hgic1202.htm
"One of the most common problems the homeowner must face is growing
lawn grass in the shade. There are not many solutions to the problems
associated with growing turf in the shade, but guidelines have been
set that may make this more manageable.
If an area gets less than 4 hours of sunlight per day, it is too shady
for lawn grass to grow well. The lack of sufficient light reaching the
grass causes a reduction in photosynthesis, which is the process that
produces energy for growth. As a result, the plant has lower tolerance
to heat, cold, disease, drought and wear stress.
Competition with trees and shrubs for limited nutrients and water also
reduces vigor, as many shrubs and trees will have root growth in the
same area as the turf roots. Disease problems are often more severe in
shade due to higher humidity, reduced air circulation and prolonged
periods of dew on turf. As a result of all the factors mentioned, turf
grown in the shade often shows a steady decline in density over a
period of years.
Some measures can be taken to reduce the problems associated with
shade. These include plant selection, management of ornamentals and
modifications of normal turf management practices.
Certain lawn grasses perform better in shade than others. Of the
cool-season lawn grasses, fine fescues are more tolerant of shade than
tall fescues. St. Augustine exhibits the best tolerance to shade of
all the warm-season lawn grasses. Recommended St. Augustine cultivars
for the coastal and midland areas include Raleigh, Palmetto, Delmar
and Jade. Bitterblue and Seville are less tolerant of cold but grow
well in coastal areas. Zoysia is more tolerant to light or moderate
shade than centipede, but neither will survive heavy shade. Zoysia
cultivars that have good tolerance to shade include El Toro, Diamond,
Belaire and Cavalier. Meyer and Emerald have fair tolerance. Bermuda
exhibits extremely poor tolerance to any amount of shade."
[edit]
"When establishing cool-season lawn grasses, it is best to seed or sod
early enough in the fall so there is sufficient time for the turf to
mature before leaves cover the ground. During the fall remove leaves
by raking, blowing or bagging when mowing to prevent smothering of the
turf. Lawn grass will grow long after deciduous trees have dropped
their leaves. If lawn grass cannot be seeded by mid-September it would
be preferable to wait until spring to avoid the leaf problem.
Ideally the mowing height should be one-half to 1 inch higher than
normal. Turf growing in shade needs a large leaf surface to take
advantage of what light does filter through the leaves. Mow on a
regular schedule, never removing more than one-third of the leaf area
at one time. It is also important to remove clippings to prevent
further reduction of light to the turf.
Lawn grasses growing in heavily shaded areas require only one-half to
two-thirds as much nitrogen as lawn grasses growing in full sun.
Reducing the amount of nitrogen to grasses growing in the shade
reduces the incidence of disease. Fertilize shady locations at the
same time as turf grown in the sun. For maximum tolerance to disease
and environmental stress, maintain the soil pH, potassium and
phosphorus levels as recommended by soil tests.
The frequency and quantity of water needed for shady areas is less
than that required for sunny areas. Water infrequently but deeply, and
only when absolutely necessary. Light, infrequent watering encourages
shallow roots, and increases disease problems associated with turf
growth in shade.
Most of the same disease problems exist in both shady and sunny areas.
Those diseases associated with high moisture and/or high humidity may
be more serious in shady areas because air movement is reduced and
surface moisture remains longer. Good cultivar selection and good
management practices should reduce the severity of these diseases.
Ornamentals that have dense canopies and shallow roots normally result
in failure of turfgrass stands even if proper management practices are
used. When possible, select trees and shrubs that are deep-rooted and
have relatively open canopies. Some species that generally cause fewer
problems include sycamores, many oaks and most elms. Undesirable
species include ash, willow, poplar and some species of maples.
Some measures can be taken to aid turf survival, whether desirable or
undesirable ornamentals are present. Selectively prune branches,
particularly low branches, to aid in air movement and light
penetration. Ideally, the lowest branches of trees should be over 6
feet above the soil surface. Remove any unnecessary trees and shrubs.
Use recommended species and sufficient spacing between plants when
placing new plants.
Consider other alternatives if quality turf cannot be maintained, even
after following sound management practices and using recommended
species and varieties. Two options you may consider are: (1) Removing
ornamentals; (2) Planting an appropriate groundcover such as English
ivy, ajuga, liriope and pachysandra in place of lawn grass."
=================================================
Selecting and Managing Lawn Grasses for Shade
http://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/pubs/management/Shade1.html
Turfgrass, trees, and shrubs are desired in most landscapes because
they are attractive and useful. Unfortunately, growing turfgrasses in
the presence of trees and shrubs can be a formidable task because each
plant group competes with the other for the light, water, and
nutrients that are essential for survival and growth. The desired
effects of trees sometimes make it difficult to grow turf. When trees
and shrubs are used to provide screening and privacy, the reduced wind
movement and sunlight often increase the chance for disease. Even so,
homeowners can take steps to improve the performance of a lawn growing
in shade.
Problems Associated with Shade
Tree leaves can substantially reduce the amount and quality of
sunlight reaching the turfgrass. Food reserves of plants growing in
very dense shade are typically drained, resulting in weak plants.
Shade varies with the season, the characteristics of the trees, and
where they are located on the lawn. Maples, oaks, and beeches are
examples of trees with dense canopies that intercept most of the
light. Some evergreens such as firs and spruces have very dense
canopies but affect small areas of turf because of their narrow
canopy. Pines, poplars, ashes, and birches produce a more open shade
than maples and oaks. Areas with an understory, or with trees close
together, cast very dense shade. Leafless deciduous hardwood trees can
block out nearly 50 percent of the sunlight in the winter, whereas the
same trees in full leaf can block nearly 95 percent of summer
sunlight.
Shrubs and shallow-rooted trees such as willows, maples, and beeches
compete strongly with turfgrasses for nutrients and water. In clay
soil, most of the shade trees' feeder roots grow in the upper 8 inches
where turfgrass roots grow. Competition extends past the trees' drip
zone, since roots can grow a considerable distance beyond this point.
Reduced amounts of light, nutrients, and water produce succulent, weak
turfgrass plants. They are slow to establish and are susceptible to
insects, disease, and environmental stress. They are less able to
withstand traffic than plants grown in full sunlight.
Environmental conditions associated with shade favor some diseases.
Poor wind movement and reduced sunlight moderate the temperature and
increase the relative humidity in shady areas. As a result, foliage
remains wet for extended periods. Although dew forms less frequently
in shaded than sunny locations, it lasts longer because the trees
hinder drying. Wet foliage encourages disease development, and thus it
is important to select disease-tolerant turfgrasses."
[edit]
Strategies for Managing Lawn Grasses in the Shade
"Modifying the Environment. Turfgrasses will not grow in very heavy
shade or under dense leaf cover. If an area gets less than 50 percent
open sunlight or less than 4 hours of sunlight per day, it is much too
shady for turfgrass to grow well. Consider removing selected trees,
especially if existing trees are too close together and removing them
will not detract from the landscape design. Use ground covers such as
English ivy, ajuga, liriope, and pachysandra as well as pine bark and
needles, crushed stone, and woodchips as an alternative to turf when
shade is excessive. These ground covers are more attractive than a
thin, dead lawn. For more information, refer to Extension Service
publication AG-75, Ground Covers for North Carolina, available from
your county Cooperative Extension Service Center. A turffree zone at
least 2 to 4 feet in diameter around a tree can improve the growth
rate of small plantings by minimizing competition between tree and
turf roots for nutrients and water.
Removing tree limbs up to a height of 6 feet and cutting out
unnecessary undergrowth will enhance wind movement and reduce the
potential for disease. Selective pruning of the tree's crown will open
the canopy and allow more light to reach the turfgrass. Removing dead
and diseased limbs can enhance the health and appearance of the tree
if pruning is done selectively and with care. Avoid severe pruning.
Tree-root pruning also aids in lawn performance, but care must be
taken not to injure desirable trees. Maples, beeches, oaks, and
certain evergreens are very sensitive to extensive root pruning. Roots
should be cut cleanly, and no more than 40 percent of the functioning
roots should be removed at one time. Supplemental irrigation and
fertilization help reduce the harmful effects of root pruning.
The depth of shade within the dripline of a tree can result in soil
erosion, exposing surface roots. Willows, elms, and maples are
notorious for their surface roots. One temporary solution is to cover
these surface roots with 3 to 4 inches of mixed topsoil and organic
matter. Shade-tolerant ground covers can be established in these areas
to give a pleasing appearance and minimize mowing problems."
[edit]
"Grass Selection. Using shade-tolerant cultivars is important when
growing turfgrass in partial shade. Mixtures of tall fescue in
combination with shade-tolerant cultivars of Kentucky bluegrass (80
percent and 20 percent by weight, respectively) are the best choices
in most locations where cool-season grasses can be grown. (See Table 1
) The addition of a fine fescue, specifically cultivars of hard
fescue, is beneficial in areas that will receive little maintenance. A
mixture of 80 percent tall fescue, 10 percent Kentucky bluegrass, and
10 percent hard fescue by weight seeded at 6 pounds per thousand
square feet is recommended. Other fine fescues, such as certain
cultivars of creeping red and chewings fescues that perform well under
low light intensities in other states, are thinned by disease in North
Carolina. Perennial ryegrass and Sabre rough bluegrass (Pea tnvialis)
have also performed poorly in shade trials in North Carolina.
Do not permit leaves to accumulate on the new lawn. As leaves fall,
they become layered and create a mat that blocks light, air, and water
movement. Remove leaves frequently until the grass is established.
Some seedlings may be torn out by the rake; however, more seedlings
will be lost if the leaves remain.
In general, warm-season grasses often suffer more winter injury in
shaded areas than in open, sunny locations. St. Augustinegrass is the
most shade-tolerant of the warm-season grasses, followed closely by
zoysiagrass. Both Emerald and Meyer varieties of zoysiagrass are more
widely used in North Carolina because they tolerate cold better than
St. Augustinegrass. Centipedegrass and bahiagrass perform well under
light pine-tree shade but are not as shade tolerant as St.
Augustinegrass and zoysiagrass. Bermudagrass is the least shade
tolerant of the turfgrasses and should not be considered for use in
shady areas. Table 1 and table 2 list shadetolerant grasses and grass
mixtures. Figure 1 shows the boundaries of the three areas of
adaptation in the state.
Cultural Practices. Keep in mind that shade-tolerant grasses prefer
sunny locations. Lawns grown in the shade must be managed more
carefully because they are often weaker than turf grown in full sun.
Cultural practices must be altered to help ensure survival and enhance
performance. Mow grasses at the top of their recommended mowing height
range to promote deep rooting and to leave as much foliage as possible
to manufacture food for the plant. (See Table 1)
Lawn grasses grown in the shade should generally be fertilized at the
same time as turf grown in the sun, but at a lighter rate. (See Table
3) Lawn fertilization is not harmful to trees and shrubs and may
actually be beneficial. Fertilizers associated with turf, such as
12~-8 and 16~-8, can help to meet the requirements of trees and
shrubs, thus preventing a nutrient deficiency. (Nutrient status can be
confirmed by submitting a soil sample to the NCDA Soil Testing
Laboratory in Raleigh.) If the trees require more nutrients than can
be supplied by the turfgrass fertilizer, apply additional fertilizer
by soil injection or drill coring to reduce the amount of area
affected and minimize the potential for turf injury or loss. Keep
track of the total amount of fertilizer applied to a given area so the
total recommended amount for any plant is not exceeded.
Overfertilization may occur if different people are responsible for
the trees, shrubs, and lawn.
Irrigate the lawn deeply and infrequently to encourage deep rooting of
trees and lawn grasses, reduce soil compaction, and minimize the time
that the foliage is wet. Wet foliage promotes disease development.
Remove accumulating leaves frequently from a young lawn. The tender
seedlings cannot stand long periods without adequate air, light, and
water. Once the lawn is established, and if the mat is not too thick,
the leaves can be mulched with a lawn mower. The mulch will decay and
add organic matter to the soil. However, if the cover is too heavy, it
is best to remove the leaves."
[edit]
"Disease Control. Powdery mildew, brown patch, leafspot, and melting
out are the major turfgrass diseases associated with shade. Powdery
mildew is particularly severe on Kentucky bluegrass; however, most
shadeadapted cultivars exhibit good tolerance to this disease. Brown
patch is often associated with tall fescue, whereas leaf spot and
melting out are associated with Me fescue, St. Augustinegrass, and
Kentucky bluegrass. (See Cooperative Extension Service publications
AG-360, Diseases of Warm-Season Grasses, and AG-361, Diseases of
Cool-Season Grasses, for a description of the symptoms of these
diseases and suggested management practices for minimizing development
and damage.) Planting improved, shade-adaptable lawn grasses and using
good cultural practices can help reduce damage from diseases. A blend
or mixture of improved, adapted coolseason grasses, rather than a
single cultivar, can help reduce the potential of turf loss from
disease."
(see Tables 1 and 2)
=================================================
Made in the Shade by Keith C. Hansen, Extension Horticulturist
http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/county/smith/homegardens/Shade/shadegarden.html
"Nothing will grow under the trees in my front yard!" Sound familiar?
Blessed with a climate and soils conducive to vigorous growth of
trees, shade is common factor for most East Texans. Rather than
looking at shade as a liability, use it as an asset to enhance your
landscape.
Most shade complaints stem from the fact that grass will not grow well
in dense shade. All turfgrasses perform best in full sun. St.
Augustine is the most shade tolerant grass, while Centipede will
tolerate partial shade. But, some trees cast such heavy shade that no
grass will thrive in that dark environment. This is particularly true
for areas under evergreen trees such as live oak, pine and magnolia.
Even deciduous trees with large leaves, like oaks, can have such dense
canopies that little sunlight penetrates to the ground."
[edit]
"Not all shade is equal. Plant selection for shade is based on the
degree of absence of sunlight. Full or deep shade occurs under low
branching trees, trees with large leaves and evergreen trees. The
north side of buildings and fences can also have deep shade,
especially if a tree is nearby. Open or filtered shade can be found
under tall, high-branching trees with small leaves or near walls and
fences without overhead branches. Some areas may receive shade only
half of the day, such as the edge of a wooded area or the west or east
side of a house or fence. Select your plants based on the type of
shade you have.
Here is a sampling of plants worthy of consideration to give you an
idea of what is available. Many in the following list can be
classified as ground covers which can be used as a lawn replacement.
English Ivy may be one of the best evergreen ground covers for the
shaded location. It thrives in deep shade, and once established, will
cover a large area with a thick carpet of deep green. There are
several varieties available with varying leaf shapes. English Ivy will
grow up tree trunks, but can be kept under control with an annual
trimming. Asian jasmine will also make a nice cover in light to
moderate shade."
[edit]
"Periwinkle is a vining ground cover which does great in full or
partial, open shade. It bears sky- blue flowers and is a very vigorous
grower, covering large areas in a short time. Variegated periwinkle
really brightens up dark corners.
Liriope is a grass-like perennial that grows in dense, low clumps in
full shade or partial sun and bear lilac colored flowers which are
followed by black fruit. There are several varieties, including giant
and variegated liriope. The liriope bordering the beds in the Camellia
Garden area in the Tyler Rose Garden are in full bloom right now and
very pretty.
A close relative is monkey or mondo grass (Ophiopogon) which forms
dense clumps that spread by underground stems. The foliage of common
mondo grass is dark green, and there is a variety with almost black
leaves. Dwarf mondo grass is a very low growing variety, suitable for
growing between the cracks in stepping stones.
Ferns are classic plants for shade. There are many species of ferns to
select from - both native and exotic. Most ferns prefer a moist
environment and are perfect for the woodland garden. Their light, airy
texture provides an excellent contrast to the broad leaves of most
plants. Some common types include holly fern, painted fern, royal
fern, lady fern, sensitive fern, wood or river fern and autumn fern.
Here's a few other shrubs and ground covers that would prefer a shady
location in your yard: Japanese andromeda (Pieris japonica), acuba,
aspidistra, camellia, coralberry, holly (many species), Oregon
grapeholly (Mahonia), wintercreeper (Euonymus fortunei), ajuga,
variegated Japanese sedge (Carex), inland sea oats, and azaleas."
================================================
If Shade Killing Grass, It Could Be Time to Try Colorful Alternatives
http://energy-efficient-products.ebuild.com/guide/resources/product-news.asp?ID=57423&catCode=26
"I commonly hear from gardeners who complain that grass won't grow
under a tree no matter what they do. When I mention that the shade
created by the tree is the likely problem, the standard response is
that grass always grew there before.
What they don't realize is that trees grow, and the shade created by a
tree increases from year to year. Eventually, even an area where grass
has always grown well before will no longer get enough sun.
If you are trying to deal with this sort of situation, here are some
things you can do.
The amount of sunlight reaching the turf can be increased by
selectively pruning trees in your landscape. The lower branches and
some of the inner branches may be pruned to allow more light to reach
the lawn below. Keep in mind that raising and thinning the canopy on
older, mature trees is often done best by a professional arborist who
can determine which branches should be removed without adversely
affecting the tree.
After pruning is done, the existing grass will (hopefully) do better.
Or if the grass has died out in the area, you can lay new sod. But
remember, the tree will continue to grow, and this should be
considered, at best, a temporary solution.
St. Augustine is considered the most shade-tolerant grass for our
area. ****Baton Rouge, La.****
Understand that the word tolerant does not mean this grass thrives in
the shade. All of our lawn grasses prefer full sun; it's just that St.
Augustine will do better than others with some shade during the day.
During our cool season, rye grasses and fescues will grow quite well
in shady areas, but they must be replanted every fall since the heat
kills them in May. That means areas where these cool-season grasses
were growing are bare during the summer if you depend only on them.
Grass growing in shaded areas should be mowed at a slightly higher
setting on your lawn mower than normally recommended. This allows the
leaf blades to grow longer and therefore have more surface area to
absorb what light is available and produce food through
photosynthesis. St. Augustine can be mowed at a height of 3 inches.
Grass growing under trees also needs less fertilizer, since it grows
more slowly, but it may need more irrigation because the tree roots
compete with the grass for water.
If after these efforts you still can't get grass to grow under your
tree, it's time to accept the situation and stop wasting your time and
money trying to make grass grow where it can't.
Unless cutting down the tree is an option, you have two choices. Cover
the area with a few inches of mulch, or look at the area as an
outstanding opportunity to create a new garden with shade-loving
plants.
The most important thing to remember when creating a landscaped area
under a tree is to respect the root system of the tree itself. Here
are some tips:
Avoid severing any roots larger than 1 inch in diameter.
Use a garden fork to turn the soil under the tree rather than a shovel
or spade, since the fork will cut fewer roots.
If you need to bring in extra soil to create the bed, use as little as
possible - preferably no more than 2-4 inches.
Don't pile several inches of soil up around the base of the trunk of
the tree, because this can lead to decay.
If you intend to fill over an area that will cover a large part of the
tree's root system, do not apply more than 2 inches of fill.
The simplest solution is to plant the area entirely with a low-
growing ground cover. I think the three best ground covers for
covering large areas are monkey grass (Ophio-pogon japonicus),
creeping lily turf (Liriope spicata) and Asian jasmine
(Trachelospermum asiaticum). These ground covers are reliable, easy to
grow and relatively fast spreading.
Other ground covers suitable for larger areas include ferns, such as
holly fern, autumn fern, wood fern and many others; English ivy;
Japanese ardisia; liriope (Liriope muscari); Algerian ivy; and the
asparagus fern (Asparagus sprengeri).
Many other plants also thrive in partially shaded to shady conditions.
For colorful bedding plants, try impatiens, wax begonias, caladiums
and torenias. Shade-tolerant perennials include ferns, hostas, ground
orchid, strawberry begonia, indigo, ligularia, aspidistra, purple
heart, ajuga, cardinal flower, Indian pinks, violets and the many
gingers, to name a few.
Shrubs to consider include hollies, azaleas, nandinas, cleyera,
ligustrum, aucuba, fatsia, mahonia, pittosporum, hydrangea, mahonia,
red buckeye, sasanqua, camellia, Christmas berry (Ardisia crispa) and
many others.
When the lawn grass finally decides that an area has become too shady
for it to grow there anymore, don't fight it. Instead, open yourself
up to the wonderful possibilities of planting a beautiful and
satisfying garden of shade-loving plants."
=================================================
http://www.pikenursery.com/stories_php_loc_02_06_00.html
"Not all areas in your landscape may be suited for growing grass.
Shady areas under trees; banks and hillsides that are difficult to
mow; or wet, boggy areas may make growing grass a real challenge.
Instead of turf grass, you may want to consider another type of ground
cover for these problem areas. Like turf grasses, ground covers are
generally used to carpet an area of soil and create a consistent
appearance. In an area where there is limited or no foot traffic,
established ground covers can provide a uniform appearance, like a
grass lawn, but with more interest and significantly less maintenance.
Ground cover plants are very versatile. The wide range of sizes,
textures, foliage colors, blooms and growth habits have extended their
popularity in recent years. Ground covers can be seen growing in
woodland areas, spilling over the edge of a container garden, pocketed
into the crevices of a rock garden or stone walkway, or planted near
the edge of a pond.
Soil preparation is very important. Till the planting area to a depth
of four to six inches and mix in plenty of soil conditioner and
mushroom compost. As with all new plantings, ground covers will
benefit from regular watering and fertilizer applications.
In addition to the old standbys, English Ivy and Hosta, there are many
other popular ground covers. Let's take a look at just a few."
[edit]
"PACHYSANDRA is a cold-hardy, perennial ground cover often grown in
wooded areas because of its shade tolerance. This compact, shrub-like
plant has handsome clusters of green leaves sometimes mottled with
purple, gray or brown. White flowers appear in late spring. Plants can
range from 6 to 12 inches high and prefer moist, well draining soil."
=================================================
Questions on: Lawn/Grasses -Ron Smith, Horticulturist, NDSU Extension Service
http://www.ext.nodak.edu/extnews/hortiscope/lawn/general.htm
Q: I have a question about my yard, but the problem is I live in
Hawaii. The climate here is warm, but the area I live in is cool, and
because we are slightly elevated we get a fair amount of rainfall,
especially during the winter months.
I have a 36-square-foot "courtyard" with a 6-foot fence around it, so
it stays shaded most of the day. I loosened the soil about 1.5 inches
down and bought something called "shady lawn" grass seed. It has been
about two weeks now and we have very nice growth. OK, here's my
question: What is "shady grass"? What we have growing looks like a
skinny blade of grass that grows up. It seems very frail, it is very
easily pulled out of the ground with no effort at all.
I'm just wondering what it's going to look like. What can I expect out
of it? Will it spread and withstand any amount of traffic?
A: From your description, it sounds like you are growing some creeping
red fescue or rough bluegrass, as either would fit the description you
provided. My bet would be that it is probably the creeping red fescue.
Generally, grass that is shade grown, even adapted species like the
ones mentioned, are not as vigorous as grass grown in full sun and
would not stand up to traffic as well. It takes some time to get a
grass toughened up to the vicissitudes of what we are going to put it
though. Mow it high, 2.5 to 3 inches, and alternate directions each
time, to build a stronger, denser turf. Fertilize, but don't overdo
it. Base the applications on the seasonal rainfall and how well your
soil drains. I suspect that you have in excess of 60 inches of
rainfall during the "winter season" and likely will have to irrigate
during the summer. One to two applications of a turf fertilizer would
likely do the trick. It is better to keep the grass a little on the
lean side to promote toughness than to apply too much fertilizer and
make the growth soft and susceptible to wear and disease problems.
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I hope this information is helpful to you.
Best regards,
tlspiegel
