Dear Grammaton Cleric,
I am delighted to assist as you prepare to be a catdaddy! Rather than
relying upon data from the Web, I'm mainly going with my own insights
here; I've posted a few useful links farther along, but most of my
response is drawn from my experience with my cats, discussions with
veterinarians, and tidbits of information from members of the animal
rescue organization in which I volunteer.
In my answer, I'll be using the feminine pronoun, but this isn't any
kind of gender-boosting political statement. It is awkward to keep
saying "he or she," and since my youngest arrival is a girly-cat, I
tend to think of kittens in feminine terms at the moment. Although
there are some behavioral differences between the sexes in adulthood,
female kittens and male kittens act very much alike.
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PINK'S PRIMER ON PETITE PUSSYCATS
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Before your furry bundle of joy arrives in the house, you'll want to
do some "kittenproofing" to ensure the safety of the kitten and the
security of your belongings. Frail knickknacks and potentially
hazardous swallowable items need to be placed somewhere out of reach
(and preferably out of view). Keep in mind that cats can fly (or
nearly so), and items that may appear to be beyond kitty's range could
be more vulnerable than expected. If a cat can see or smell something,
the odds are that she can get to it if she really wants to.
If you have any old roach motels or mouse baits back in dark corners,
discard them. Substances that kill household pests are likely to be
harmful to household pets as well. Pesticide sprays and powders can be
picked up on your cat's paws and fur, and since cats groom themselves
meticulously with their tongues, anything that is deposited on the
outside of the cat will soon be transferred inside.
A multitude of feline fripperies (toys, playhouses, collars, beds and
such) are sold by pet stores, but there are really only two must-have
categories: food supplies and litter supplies.
Regarding food, you'll want to choose food that is specifically
designed for the nutritional needs of kittens, not adult cats. There
are many kinds of kitten foods on the market, and the price of the
food does not necessarily indicate its quality. Very young kittens
should be given canned food at first, since they may not yet be able
to chew dry food. When dry food is introduced, try to choose one that
has smallish nuggets so that the kitten won't have to work too hard
crunching the food into digestible bits.
Regarding long-term feeding plans, the debate of canned versus dry is
a hot topic; personally, I've had great success with dry food that is
available on a self-serve basis, with occasional treats of canned
food. I know people who swear by canned food as a sole diet. I really
don't think it makes a difference, as long as the food contains the
nutrients a cat needs to thrive, and doesn't contain too much of
certain chemicals that can lead to urinary problems.
You can generally trust the big brand names (Purina, Iams, Science
Diet, etc.), and food sold by the big pet supply stores (such as
PetsMart, Petco, or Pet Food Direct) is likely to be of decent
quality. Cheap, off-brand grocery store cat food is (in my view)
risky. If I may put in a plug, I've found SophistaCat brand food
(available in dry and canned formulas for kittens and for adult cats)
to be a great value. My cats love the flavor variety, the nutritional
quality is excellent, and the price is right.
First-time catparents are often not aware that some cats cannot digest
cow's milk. It's best not to give milk to your kitten; although she
may love the taste of it, milk could give her diarrhea, which can be a
serious health risk in a young animal. If you want to offer milk to
your kitten, choose a lactose-reduced milk. You can get
lactose-reduced milk in the dairy department of many groceries, and
there are milks sold especially for the pet market:
PetFoodDirect: Cat Sip Real Milk for Cats
http://www.petfooddirect.com/store/product_detail.asp?pf_id=30211701&dept_id=17&brand_id=205&Page=
Fresh water should be available to your cat at all times. Many cats
are finicky about the freshness aspect of the water, so you may want
to change the water bowl once or twice a day, even if it isn't empty.
Speaking of finickiness and freshness brings us to the subject of the
litter pan. Cats, unlike dogs, want to cover their feces to make them
undetectable. At seven weeks, your kitten is likely to need no
training in the use of a litter pan. If you build it, she will come.
There are numerous styles of pans (some covered, some open) and
several types of litter. The automatic litter pans that are
self-cleaning may sound attractive, but many people find that cats are
alarmed by them and don't want to use them (I can understand this.
Would you want to sit on a toilet that made growling noises?)
I suggest starting with a simple, deep-walled litter pan without a
hood or cover. Fill it about half full with clumping litter. This
style of litter costs more than the old-fashioned clay litter, but
it's money well spent. Don't spend extra on litter with fancy scents
or deodorizers: cats don't like added fragrances, and scenting a piece
of cat excrement doesn't really improve it any.
Most cats want a nice, clean place to "do their business," and if the
litter pan smells too "used," they may pick another place, such as
your living room rug. You don't have to change the litter pan every
day (although some folks do), but it is best to remove and discard
pieces of poop and clumps of urine-soaked litter. Special rakes and
scoops are sold for this purpose.
It is essential that your new kitten be examined by a veterinarian.
Even a kitten that seems healthy can carry parasites such as worms and
fleas, and routine immunizations are necessary in order to ensure a
long, healthy life.
Choosing a veterinarian for your pet is a lot like choosing a
pediatrician for a child: it's an important decision, and you don't
want to go only on convenience or price. Rather than pulling a name
out of the yellow pages, it's better to ask friends, relatives, or
co-workers who live in your area for their recommendations. Most
larger communities have vets who specialize in cats, and veterinary
hospitals for cats only; this is a blessing when your cat needs
medical care, since the presence of barking or howling dogs can be
very upsetting to some cats, and vet facilities that handle both cats
and dogs tend to be noisy.
You'll want to have your kitten neutered before the age of sexual
maturity. This prevents certain kinds of behavioral problems, and
provides health advantages as well. Sometimes people are reluctant to
neuter a pet because they anthropomorphize the sexual experience, and
don't feel right about depriving the animal of its sex life. Be
assured that sex, for cats, is not a deeply fulfilling emotional
experience. It's not a leisurely romantic liaison with an afterglow;
it's a violent, momentary frenzy that resembles the compulsion to
scratch a maddening itch.
Unless your cat has very long, thick fur, she will probably be
self-grooming. Some breeds (such as Persians) need help in detangling
their coats, but most cats do a remarkable job of keeping themselves
clean and neat. Brushing will help to remove loose hairs which might
otherwise end up on carpet and furniture. If you want to brush your
cat, it's best to use a brush made for this purpose, rather than a
hairbrush or comb made for humans. This is my favorite kind of brush:
PetsMart: Speedy Groom for Cats
http://www.petsmart.com/global/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524441806940&ASSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=2534374302023690&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302033730&bmUID=1092083499187
Training a cat is a tricky matter. Unlike dogs, cat don't usually want
to do things just to please humans. Cats do things to please
themselves; if they see that you are displeased, the conclusion they
draw is not "don't do that again," but "don't get caught doing that
again." The most common problems with kittens are occasional toilet
troubles, clawing at furniture and fabrics, rowdy romping during
bedtime hours, and overly aggressive interaction with humans
(scratching and biting to the point of drawing blood). All of these
are, to some degree, normal and expected kitten behaviors that can be
expected to get better with the passage of time.
The most serious of these behavior problems is aggressive play. Do not
encourage a cat to play roughly with humans' hands or feet. This may
seem cute at first, but it must be dealt with, preferably at a young
age, if the cat is to become a loving housepet. If your kitten attacks
you in a playful manner, pull your hand or foot away from her;
redirect the behavior by offering her a toy to play with instead. If
you wish to administer discipline, don't strike the cat. A very
effective and totally harmless disciplinary tool is a water pistol or
a spray bottle filled with plain tap water. Or you can make a sudden,
unpleasant noise: a good homemade noisemaker is a dozen pennies inside
an aluminum soda can with the top taped shut. Shake the can vigorously
when the cat misbehaves. Cats just hate the sound of this; they'll
stop whatever they're doing, and will be hesitant to do it again lest
they hear the horrid noise.
The very most important advice I can give to someone who is acquiring
a new kitten is to pet, play with, stroke, hold, and love that little
furball as much and as often as you can. The more handling and
affection a kitten receives, the better socialized she becomes, and
the deeper her bond with her humans will be when she matures. Don't
let anyone tell you that cats are not affectionate. If given a lot of
attention and touching when young, your cat can grow into a
love-machine unequaled by any creature in the world. As is the case
with many interpersonal relationships, the more you put into it, the
more you'll get out of it. Cats are not like dogs: they don't
automatically love us. Cats who are fed and sheltered but largely
ignored grow up to be indifferent creatures who view human beings as
gigantic can openers. Cats who are fondled and dandled and played with
and shown a great deal of attention grow up to be little angels in fur
coats.
Here are a few good links that will provide more detailed information
on kitten-related subjects:
PAWS: Animal Fact Sheets
http://www.paws.org/cas/resources/fact_sheets_cats/
About Cats: Bringing a New Kitten Home
http://cats.about.com/cs/kittencare/a/kitcareone.htm
HDW Enterprises: SELECTING & PREPARING FOR YOUR NEW KITTEN
http://www.hdw-inc.com/newkitten.htm
Jeff & Diane's Cat House: Tips for When You Get a New Kitten or Cat
http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Plains/1151/kitntips.htm
PetsMart: Your Kitten's Veterinary Visits: The First Year
http://www.petsmart.com/global/articles/article_detail.jsp?CONTENT%3C%3Ecnt_id=10134198673267643&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302025593&ASSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=2534374302023690&bmUID=1092079024610
My Google search strategy:
Google Web Search: "new kitten"
://www.google.com/search?hl=en&ie=UTF-8&q=%22new+kitten
In closing, I would like to encourage readers to rate my kitten:
Rate My Kitten: Brownie
http://www.ratemykitten.com/ratemy/kitten?image=105382
Brownie and her two siblings were tiny feral kittens found starving in
a friend's garage. Since there was no mama cat in sight, my husband
and I took them in and bottle-fed them. The three of them are a source
of more joy than anyone (except a person blessed by cats) can possibly
imagine.
I wish you the very best as you embark upon your own kitten-parenting
adventure. May you and your wife have a plenitude of purrs and an
absence of hisses for many years to come.
Best wishes,
pinkfreud |
