I am a artist-painter- and I am looking for one or more long life, non
yellowing clear coatings that could be applied over dry oil paint
(Winston Newton Alkyd and oil colors mixed with liquin medium). I
would prefer low toxicity and no more than 24hr drying time, (the
sooner the better). I Would like to be able to apply it to horizonal
masonite doorskins with the coating thicknesses up to 3/16 inch
without cracking. In addition, I would like to then add more oil color
glazes and additional clear coats. Ideally, the final clear coats
could be thinned,applied and buffed if needed. Please respond with
"Clear Coatings**" in the subject and include product name and source
info. Thanks much, Jim

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Clarification of Question by jamesk92000-ga on 07 Sep 2004 08:35 PDT

In response to Monroe22-Thanks- I don't expect complete non-yellowing
nor do I need to buff it if it is a good finish. Just thick and clear.
I have seen it in paintings before but it may have been applied in
dozens of layers. Also similar to resin topped tables?? Jim

jamesk92000: I happen to have 45 years experience in the coatings
industry and am also an artist, so I believe I can partially respond
to your question. ( I am not a GA Researcher). First, there is no
clear coating that is totally non-yellowing, only degrees of
difference. For certain, don't use any clear containing linseed or
other vegetable oils, or natural resins. If you simply wanted a thin
clear coat over most any type of base color, you could use a water
borne (latex) clear such as Minwax Polycrylic. But water borne clears
are not hard enough for buffing. I believr you are seeking a
hard,thick clear coat that gives the appearance of encapsulation. That
is a tall order for a non-industrial application. There are many
decoupage materials which may do the job, but be warned that
application on a sizable flat surface such as a door can be fraught
with hazards, such as sags and thickness variations. I know all this
sounds negative, but if I understand your goal, it cannot usually be
done by an amateur. If your artwork is very time consuming, I would
advise you seek out a professional finishing shop, and even then do a
practice piece without artwork. Good luck.
monroe22

jamesk92000: Resin topped tables have a catalyzed clear polyester
coating. This is best done in a factory situation, but it can be done
by a hobbyist. You can obtain this material in a craft shop or via
internet. If you do it yourself, by all means try it on a practice
piece before applying to artwork.
   Jim, if I understand your goal, consider having it done by a professional.
The expense is worth it...there could be a steep learning curve.
   You mentioned a 3/16 in. coating, which can be a problem. If you
only need an extremely high gloss,not necessarily very thick, then you
can do it yourself. Practice with many thin coats of Minwax Polycrylic
(non-toxic), or decoupage clears. The high gloss oil paintings are
typically coated with Damar varnish which eventually yellows and
cracks.
monroe22