I know nothing about guns, but I was recently given a gun. It turns
out that it may have considerable value. Here is what I've found
(using google) about the gun:

Manufacturer: Browning
Dates: 1954-1977
Description: 9mm Hi-Power Fully Engraved Renaissance (Pearl Grip)
Category: Curios/Relics

Question: How should I get this gun ready for resale (two categories):

Administratively - The gun is unregistered and I don't know the
history of it. What should I do?

Cosmetically - How should I clean/preserve it? Keep in mind I'm a
do-it-yourself type of person.

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Clarification of Question by klwdallas-ga on 04 Jan 2005 10:14 PST

Mine is was made in 1974 (found how to interpret the SN).

I live in Texas if that helps with the 'Administrative' part.

Cosmetically, the gun has minor rust blemishes on the exterior.

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Clarification of Question by klwdallas-ga on 04 Jan 2005 23:34 PST

There are also surface scratches on the mother of pearl grip that I'd
like to remove. I can't find anything online about this.

My husband, who collects curio/relic guns, had the following advice
for you.  Hope this helps...

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There is no requirement for registration of handguns in the state of
Texas ( http://www.nra-ila.org/GunLaws/StateLaws.aspx?ST=TX ).  If it
was inherited or a gift from a family member or trusted friend, he
should be reasonably sure it isn't stolen so that shouldn't be an
issue.  Basically, if it's his and its not stolen, he can sell it. 
There are various stolen gun lists around, he might want to check with
a trustworthy gun store or the DPS to see if there is a registry he
can check against within his area (if this is a concern).

For selling it:

Within Texas, he can sell face to face with no background check (not
politically correct, some risk of it going to a bad place, etc).  He
can limit this by selling only to someone with a Texas Concealed
Weapons Permit.  He can take the trouble out by taking it to a gunshop
that sells by consignment.  They'll sell it for him, take a
commission, and transfer and do the background check.  Alternatively,
they my just buy it (at reduced value), and then it's no longer his
concern.

Outside of Texas, (sale by internet, ad in the paper, ad in Shotgun
News, etc) he must ship it to a receiving Federal Firearms License
(FFL) holder (AKA a "dealer"), the buyer should be the one to find the
receiving FFL.  This person (receiving FFL) will do the transfer
paperwork for that state and the background check and help the buyer
confirm with his state's laws.  He should get a copy (signed in ink)
of the receiving transfer FFL dealer before he ships it (it can be
mailed with the check/money order), he keeps this in his records and
shows it to the UPS or FedEx shipping clerk (if asked) when he ships
it overnight (only way for a handgun unless he has a local gunshop
send it for him) to the receiving FFL.

As for rust removal, I prefer Kano Lab's Kroil and 0000 fine steel
wool.  This will only remove light surface rust, not pitting.  If he
doesn't wish to attempt this, he can spray it with WD40, wipe it with
a clean rag/cloth, spray it again, and place it in a plastic bag. 
This will serve to preserve it, for now, with things he has around the
house.  Anything marked "rust removal" may also remove the blued
finish, as the blue finish is a surface protectant that is a rust as
well (Kano Lab's rust remover seems to work like a bluing, it removes
rust in favor of its own brand of blueing/rust, but that may not be
the best for these purposes).  Anything like sandpaper, Dremel, wire
brush, etc. will scratch the finish as well.  If he were keeping it,
I'd say to get it refinished if the rust is going to bother him.  This
can be done by many gunsmiths.  If he's selling it, the cost he'd have
for removing the rust and re-finishing it would probably be more
expensive than the reaped benefit in resale value.  If it were a
collector firearm, home attempts to "fix" it would only lower that
value.

A 1974 manufactured Browning High Power is most likely not part of the
Curios and Relics list maintained by the BATF(E), but I don't have my
copy of the list handy.  Unless its one of a select few variants it
wouldn't be, but I don't believe those variants were manufactured in
1974 (Canadian Inglis High Power, a Centennial model, a couple with
"tangent sights," etc).

I don't know anything about fixing pearl grips.  Try asking someone
who has some experience in preserving scrimshaw.

Thanks for the help. I've already tried the rust removal steps you
mentioned. I had some luck, but I'm afraid to rub any harder. I was
going to try to find a gunsmith, but I wasn't sure if I could carry it
in my car legally.

I had already stumbled on the BATF list and I think the gun is on the list:

Browning Arms Company "Renaissance" engraved FN Hi Power pistol, cal.
9mm, 1954 to 1977.

I think this is my gun, but I've only been able to find one picture online.

I'm leaning towards keeping it. Should I actually use the gun? It's
apparent that it was used previously and not maintained very well. I'm
sure this will lower the value.

Here are some more suggestions from my husband.  (He doesn't have a GA
login, which is why I'm posting for him.)

>Thanks for the help. I've already tried the rust removal steps you
>mentioned. I had some luck, but I'm afraid to rub any harder. I was
>going to try to find a gunsmith, but I wasn't sure if I could carry it
>in my car legally.

You can transport it without a carry permit.  The safest way if you do not
have one is unloaded, disassembled, in a locked box, in the trunk.  That
generally satisfies all transport requirements.  If you cannot disassemble
it, locked in a trunk (unloaded, no magazine), should satisfy any
requirements.  It should be in a container/box of some sort from the trunk
to the gunsmith/store in general just to avoid any potential squeamishness
by someone who might cry "fear" or "brandishing."  This is generally true
if you are transporting it to/from a shooting range/facility, gunshop,
gunsmith/repair facility, shipping location, and/or hunting.  This assumes
you have a car, of course.

>I had already stumbled on the BATF list and I think the gun is on the
>list:
>
>Browning Arms Company "Renaissance" engraved FN Hi Power pistol, cal.
>9mm, 1954 to 1977.

If this is the case, you can add selling to a Curios And Relics FFL (AKA
03-FFL) holder within or out of the state with no problems as well.  The
C&R FFL holder (if it is a C&R qualified pistol) can directly receive the
pistol without a transfer FFL in most states (he/she is his own transferrer).

>I'm leaning towards keeping it. Should I actually use the gun? It's
>apparent that it was used previously and not maintained very well. I'm
>sure this will lower the value.

Assuming it is in good mechanical condition, there is no reason not to keep
and use the pistol (legally).  Browning HP magazines are relatively easy to
find and buy.  Maintained WRT finish vs maintained WRT mechanically are two
different things.  If the prior owner(s) had not modified the safeties
(home gunsmith), or taken a dremel to the barrel in some way, most likely
it should be safe.  A good gunsmith can verify this, so you have a
disclaimer for legal reasons:  Use at your own risk...  Refinishing it will
destroy collector value, but if it is refinished/restored to the original
issue/factory condition, that does not damage the C&R status of the
pistol.  HOWEVER, while a working but refinished pistol will not have as
much collector value, it would presumably be a working, good (refinished)
pistol and can be priced accordingly (again, the restoration cost may
exceed any resale recoup, i.e. $80-100 to refinish the slide may only gain
$40 or so in additional resale for good condition, working (non-collector)
pistol).

Before you "use" the pistol (assuming you keep it and it has been examined
or you have decided it's safe), if you have not ever shot one, I would
recommend some sort of safety or familiarization course.  The manuals for a
High Power can be found on many websites about the internet and possibly
from Browning itself.  The Texas requirements for a carry permit are such
that you must pass a minimum shooting proficiency level and have taken some
safety training, IIRC.  This means that there should be minimal trouble in
locating a place, person, or course that will train you in the safe use of
the pistol.  A good gunshop or someone at a shooting range who is very
friendly and helpful should be able to help you learn how to disassemble
and clean the pistol appropriately.  (disclaimer again:  Gunshop advice is
worth what you pay for it, so you should be wary...  If you have a friend
with a Texas Concealed Handgun Permit or they are a competitive shooter,
they might know who is "good" to go to for help/advice.  Contacting a local
gun club or IPSC/IPDA shooting group might also work.)

Thanks once again for all the information. I found a local gunsmith
who told me the  gun was in good condition and that the value was
between $1500 and $1800. It hasn't been modified in any way, but did
have an add-on I didn't know about.

I carried the gun in my trunk unloaded, in a case.

I'm looking forward to shooting it.

Hi. If you have a Renaissance Hi-Power, please don't shoot it. It
should work fine, but you do own a collectors item that is and will
remain much more valuable if you don't shoot it.

As far as cleaning goes, ask your local gunshop how to dissasemble it.
Make sure you ask about the "dummy scratch" and how to avoid it.
(Hint, it has to do with the slide release)

PLEASE don't use any harsh chemicals or any abrasive substances. An
old toothbrush and some Hoppes No. 9 should work fine. Then, wipe down
with a thin layer of oil. Reapply the oil occasionally to prevent rust
from forming. Please don't use WD-40. It removes the protective oil
from the gun, exposing it to additional rust.