Hi dzoglio,
Thank you for an interesting question.
Basically, soundproofing involves two principals, noise blocking and
noise absorption.
BobVila.com
http://www.bobvila.com/BBS/Construction_Systems/591/591/flat-page1.html
"I live in a duplex that has a common block wall with my neighbor.
What would be the best way to sound proof this wall so that I can not
hear the neighbors and they can not hear me."
[...]
"They make insulation that is more sound proofing than other
insulations. The only way I can see you doing this thou, is if you
build a stud wall the whole length and height of block wall and fill
it with the insulation."
[...]
"R-11 insulation is used between walls to help when sound proofing.
Remember, where ever air can pass from one area to the next, sound
will too. So make sure the wall is sealed up tight. Electrical outlets
commonly allow air infiltration so make sure to sound proof them.
Once you put in your sheet rock over your insulation, use chalking or
"soft" spray foam to seal up the gap between the rock and the floor. I
read a little about sound proofing in a HandyMan magazine once, so
that is the level of my expertise."
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Soundproofing Walls
http://www.onthehouse.com/wp/20020812
"In homes where families live on opposite sides of a common wall, it
is best for the studs on one side to be separate from the studs on the
other side. We think that two separate walls work best. One wall for
one side; one wall for the other. This way when someone pounds on his
wall, the vibration isn't transferred to the other side. Also,
wallboard should not be applied between the common walls. The layer of
wallboard can defeat the sound-deadening properties of the insulation
layers in each of the walls. Remember the configuration: three layers
of 5/8-inch wallboard, a stud wall filled with fiberglass insulation,
a space between, another stud wall filled with fiberglass insulation
and three more layers of 5/8-inch wallboard.
We think that the building code ought to be up scaled to include a
full separation between multiple dwellings and that the party walls
should each have several layers of wallboard within each dwelling.
Wall cavities should be filled with as much fiberglass batt insulation
as will fit without compression to add more sound-deadening quality.
No portion of the wall cavities should be without insulation.
You can't do all of these fancy framing things unless you're building
from scratch. But if you have room, you can build a wall inside your
place holding it a few inches away from the existing one and adding as
many layers of wallboard and-or soundboard as you can afford. Also,
you can simply add wallboard to an existing wall. If the studs in the
wall travel all the way to the other side, some sound might come
through even with several layers of wallboard.
There are some types of soundboard that come with fabric or wallpaper
applied to one surface. Screwing soundboard to a wall is easy, but be
sure to properly extend the electrical boxes."
see image: http://www.onthehouse.com/articles/apimages/581.gif
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HERE'S HOW -A sound solution to duplex decibels By Gene Gary
Copley News Service
https://www.copleynews.com/1cns/features/how/
Question.
"I live in a 58-year-old, two-story "duplex" house. I would like to
make the common wall between my neighbors and me more soundproof. The
staircase runs alongside this wall; so building a sound-deadening wall
a few inches inside the existing wall is not an option. What are the
best options for insulating or otherwise modifying the wall so that I
don't hear my neighbors' conversation and footsteps?"
Answer.
"Since you do not have the ability to build a second wall (leaving an
airspace between it and the original wall), your best bet to reduce
transmission of sound is to add a layer of drywall on one or,
preferably, both sides of the existing wall. Stagger the joints of the
new panels and be sure to caulk the bottom edge (using butyl or
silicone caulk) before installing baseboards. Use manufacturer's
adhesive to attach a second layer of drywall over the original.
If the stair treads are flush with the wall as they ascend, caulk each
tread where it meets the wall. If the first layer of drywall was
installed horizontally, install the new layer vertically, and vice
versa. Padded carpeting on the staircase may help absorb some sounds
that will continue to travel through the wall.
To really control sound, it's best to use dense materials. The
ultimate sound-killing material is lead, and some people are willing
to go to the trouble of lining their media rooms with a layer of lead
foil to contain noise. Sound has an uncanny ability to slip through
any opening. Even electric outlets and light switches can admit sound.
Seal any such installations on this wall with foam gaskets, sold as
weatherproofing materials for outlets."
(see image)
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Soundproofing Existing Walls And Adding New Soundproof Walls
http://alsnetbiz.com/homeimprovement/faq10b.html
Improving on an Existing Wall:
This is a basic system.
"Laminate the existing wall with Soundboard, a material made from
compressed wood fibers and recycled paper. Construction adhesive makes
this a quick operation. You can get it at most commercial drywall
suppliers Next install a new 2" metal framed wall 1/2" or more away
from the existing wall. 2" metal studs are very easy to work with and
keep the wall thickness at a minimum. Pack the wall cavity with
fiberglass insulation, since we are not that concerned with the "R"
value as much as sound deadening. Hang new drywall, tape, finish and
paint with Acousti-Coat.
More Effective...
A well-constructed and sealed staggered-stud wall design has a very
high STC of 60. This design uses an extra wide base plate. For example
you use a 2" x 6" base plate and alternately position the studs to the
outer edges of the plate, 1 to the inside, next one to the opposite
edge etc. No stud actually touches both walls so there is no direct
sound path. You can improve on this design by using separate base
plates under each set of studs. The insulation is snaked through the
stud-to-wall gaps along the entire length. This leaves no voids to let
noise through. (Basically you are building two separate walls.)
System #1
5/8" type "X" fire rated drywall has much better sound deadening
properties than 1/2" reg drywall. The cost is not that much more so I
recommend you use 5/8"X. Attach it to the studs using construction
adhesive and a few screws to hold it in place until the adhesive
dries. Avoid using too many screws...this is a path for sound to
travel, 6-8 per 4'x8' panel of drywall is enough to hold it.
When installing the drywall do not fit it tight into the ceiling,
corners or floor. Hold it off at least 1/4" and use an acrylic
caulking to fill those gaps. The caulking acts as a flexible buffer
for sound vibration so that it minimizes the sound transfer.
Caulk an fill ALL openings, around outlet and switch boxes, light
fixtures etc. NO Cracks or holes left uncaulked!
Tape and finish the drywall using normal procedures."
Want More Soundproofing? - System #2 is Really Serious!
http://alsnetbiz.com/homeimprovement/faq10c.html
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http://www.handymanwire.com/questions/basementfinishingq.html
1/2 down the page
Dividing Wall
Soundproofing a Music Room
More On Soundproofing
Still More on Soundproofing
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Lastly, a bit of humor from Bob Aaron - Desperately seeking peace and quiet
http://www.propertyshop.ca/news.cfm?action=show&articleid=179
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Keyword search:
duplex soundproofing walls
duplex wall noise reduction
soundproof duplex wall
soundproof existing duplex walls
noise block duplex walls
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Best regards,
tlspiegel |
