Hello, and thanks for a challenging question. I suppose I may be of
some minor help, although your question is very delicate since it is
medically-inclined, and the shortcoming of cyberspace is the
incapacity to perform a proper examination. First of all, I will
start by commenting that forearm injuries in rock climbing are common,
even among the most experienced climbers. Soft tissue in our bodies
are not always up to the stress and strain a good rock climb requires.
This is mostly caused by the repeated contractions in the forearm
muscles. Tendonitis of the forearm is also often reported by
climbers.
Some common injuries in the hands and forearm are:
-soft-tissue damage
-flexor tendon strain
-tendonitis
-tenosynovitis
-joint contractures
-and carpal tunnel syndrome
Rock climbing grip techniques transmit extremely high forces through
the tissues of the forearm, resulting in a myriad of injuries. I
suggest you check out
http://www.physsportsmed.com/issues/1997/05may/jebson.htm
which gives a very nice run-through of the muscles and tendons, and
their injuries and function in rock climbing. It also gives common
treatments and preventative measures, as you requested. Although
highly technical, it is a good reference. According to this site,
“Most climbers' hand injuries are relatively minor and can be treated
with rest, anti-inflammatory medication, and splinting and taping.
Certain injuries, however, require referral and surgical intervention,
and others, if neglected or not recognized, may have serious
functional consequences. Among these more serious injuries are flexor
tendon strains, pulley strains, and ruptures.”
I personally have carpal tunnel syndrome…a problem previously thought
to reside only in the elderly, but I have been diagnosed with this
problem since I was barely 10.
First timers to rock climbing experience tenderness and mistake this
muscle development for injury, but you sound as though you are an
experienced climber: therefore, your injury may be a wearing caused by
overuse. You may have torn something, although I cannot be sure.
When I tore a muscle in my leg during my track and field years, I
experienced no pain while bending my leg, but the pain I experienced
when returning my leg to its extended position felt like someone
lighting a match to my upper leg…
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I will foremost advise that you consult a doctor and do not depend
on the internet to diagnose injuries, for they can be serious and can
only be diagnosed upon in-person examination. Problems that seem
minor often go untreated. They can be progressive injuries that may
seem to lack seriousness now, but could eventually spell out the end
of your rock climbing…or writing or hand usage, for that matter.
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
However, I will attempt to give you a little background on these
injuries. Many rock climbers use massage techniques to eliminate
tenderness.
http://www.altrec.com/published/climb/healthfitness/herestherub/
suggests this massage for forearms: “This massage works wonders to
reduce inflammation after a climb, but can also help to alleviate a
flash pump mid-route. Grasp your forearm palm up with your opposite
hand. Moving from wrist to elbow, massage your arm with your fingers
and thumb. Turn your palm down, and repeat the massage. Use your thumb
to exert deeper pressure on trigger points for several seconds at a
time.”
Again, treatment should be left to an experienced physician who can
personally examine you. Hand and forearm injuries are controversial
in their treatment since often surgery is required and the hand or arm
never fully heals or gets worse. Some people have successfully
treated serious injuries. Prevention to rock climbing injuries could
include the following:
- observing personal limitations
- further ground conditioning before taking on a major climb
- hand exercises
- massages
- taping of the hands and wearing proper equipment
- allowing rest time between climbs
These are only a few. I wish you luck and would love to go on, but as
you can see, my answer is becoming quite lengthy already. Good luck
and I would be delighted to offer more if you so need. |
