Hi tipping_point,
Here you go -
>>> YEAST
Liquid vs Dry: Liquid yeasts are...
1. Better quality / purer / fewer chances of contamination
2. More varieties
3. Requires more work / time / care
4. Refrigeration more critical / shorter storage time
5. Costs more but if you make your own cultures you can reduce the overall cost.
6. Less convenient
BYO - Plunge into Liquid yeast:
"What's the deal? Your dry yeast works fine. It's easy. It's cheap.
It's nearly foolproof. Why would anyone want to mess with yeast in a
seemingly expensive and temperamental liquid form?
As it turns out, for quite a few reasons, the most important being
taste and control. Most experienced homebrewers will tell you that,
all things being equal, beer made with liquid yeast is usually cleaner
and tastier than beer made with dry yeast."
"Dry yeast usually comes in only two varieties, "ale" and "lager"
Using dry yeast is like trying to touch up a scratch on your car with
generic paint from the hardware store. Sure, it's good paint, but it
won't match your car color perfectly. For that you have to spend a
little more money and get the exact coded shade from the right
manufacturer."
http://www.byo.com/feature/37.html
How to Brew by John Palmer
Chapter 6 - Yeast 6.3. Yeast Forms:
"Dry yeast are select, hardy strains that have been dehydrated for
storability. There are a lot of yeast cells in a typical 7 gram
packet. For best results, it needs to be re-hydrated before it is
pitched."
"Dry yeast is convenient for the beginning brewer because the packets
provide a lot of viable yeast cells, they can be stored for extended
periods of time and they can be prepared quickly on brewing day."
"Dry yeasts are good but the rigor of the dehydration process limits
the number of different ale strains that are available and in the case
of dry lager yeast, eliminates them almost entirely."
"The only thing missing with dry yeast is real individuality, which is
where liquid yeasts come in. Many more different strains of yeast are
available in liquid form than in dry."
"Liquid yeast used to come in 50 ml foil pouches, and did not contain
as many yeast cells as in the dry packets. The yeast in these packages
needed to be grown in a starter wort to bring the cell counts up to a
more useful level. In the past few years, larger 175 ml pouches
(Wyeast Labs) and ready-to-pitch tubes (White Labs) have become the
most popular forms of liquid yeast packaging and contain enough viable
cells to ferment a five gallon batch."
http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-3.html
Realbeer.com Beer Community > Homebrewing > In general > dry/liquid
yeast questions:
"In my opinion, liquid is worth the extra few bucks simply due to its
variety. I generally pitch the smack pack or vial directly without a
starter and have never had a problem. I guess what it boils down to is
whether $3.50 extra is a worthwhile investment to produce a superior
beer. I must admit though, I've made plenty of good beers with dry
yeast and never used more than 1 pack. On the other hand, you could
not make an acceptable lambic with dry yeast (to name 1 style)"
"I use liquid yeast. I enjoy the results. When I first started, the
people I was learning from would try a beer and could tell if it was a
dry yeast. I said I hope I never end up like that, but I did. Dry
yeast leaves a different after taste, not bad but you can notice it.
Liquid yeast does not have to have a starter. The starter will
decrease your lag time time and give you a stronger fermentation."
"One other con to dry is that it is considered to not be of high
enough quality to be harvested and re-pitched. Re-pitched liquid yeast
costs $0.0."
"And.... if you do a lot of beers that use the same yeast, you can do
the parallel culturing thing. I use a lot of the American Ale yeast so
I made a large starter and split it 8 ways. $5.00 / 8 = 63 cents a
shot, cheaper than dry yeast, eh?
I have never used dry yeast, St. Pat's started me out with SmackPacks.
I never made a starter until a couple of months ago after hearing
everyone here talk about them. A good starter does seem to make a
better beer. "
http://www.realbeer.com/discussions/showthread.php?threadid=1306
Yeast Culturing Practices for Small-Scale Brewers
By Karl King
Republished from BrewingTechniques' May/June 1994.
http://brewingtechniques.com/library/backissues/issue2.3/king.html
Yeast Management Guidelines:
http://www.wyeastlab.com/cbrew/cbmanage.htm
Homebrew Yeast Strains Chart:
http://www.byo.com/referenceguide/yeaststrains/
Yeast Temperature Charts:
http://www.wyeastlab.com/education/edtempch.htm
Liquid Yeast Varieties - list with descriptions:
http://realbeer.com/spencer/liqale.html
Storage:
ProBrewer.com > Resources...
...> Library > Keeping your yeast healthy longer (commercial use):
http://www.probrewer.com/resources/library/bp-healthyyeast.php
Price:
"PROPAGATED LIQUID YEAST (1 liter) - Yeast which has been propagated
in our laboratory under sterile and growth enhancing conditions to a
final stage of 10 liters. Yeast is concentrated to 1 liter or less,
refrigerated, and shipped overnight (U.S. and Canadian destinations
only). This amount of yeast is sufficient for further propagation at
the brewery starting with a volume of about 1 Hl (about 1 barrel).
Cost: $260."
http://www.siebelinstitute.com/services/yeast.html
yeast FAQ:
http://www.realbeer.com/jjpalmer/yeastfaq.txt
Profiles and average fermentation characteristics of each yeast strain:
http://www.wyeastlab.com/beprlist.htm
Yeast History
http://www.wyeastlab.com/education/edyehist.htm
Maximum Yeast Performance
Practical guidelines for Homebrewing
http://www.wyeastlab.com/education/edmyp.htm
Choosing Yeast:
http://www.wyeastlab.com/education/edyechoo.htm
>>> SUPPLIERS
LIQUID
Supplier & Services Directory
* Category: "Ingredients & Raw Materials: Yeast: Yeast, Liquid"
[click on the link for more details and suppliers]
http://www.probrewer.com/probrewer/marketguide/mgsupsearch.php3?prodcat=1&prodscat=53
1) Vinothèque, Canada
2142 Trans Canada Hwy.
Dorval PQ H9P 2N4 Canada
Phone: 514/684-1331
Fax: 888/644-8466
2) Spagnol¹s Wine and Beer Making Supplies Ltd.
1325 Derwent Way
Delta BC V3M 5V9 Canada
Phone: 604/524-9463
Fax: 604/524-1327 and 1-888-557-7557 (toll free)
3) Crosby & Baker Ltd.
P.O. Box 3409
999 Main St.
Westport MA 02790 USA
Phone: 508/636-5154
Fax: 508/636-4170
4) Global Brewing Services, Inc.
P.O. Box 699
Yarmouth ME 04096
Phone: 207/846-9088
Fax: 207/929-5505
5) Saccharomyces Supply Company
18 Alcott Lane
Westwood MA 02090
Phone: 781/769-7888
Fax: 781/326-9920
DRIED
Supplier & Services Directory
* Category: "Ingredients & Raw Materials: Yeast: Yeast, Dried"
[click on the link for more details and suppliers]
http://www.probrewer.com/probrewer/marketguide/mgsupsearch.php3?prodcat=1&prodscat=52
1) Vinothèque, Canada
2142 Trans Canada Hwy.
Dorval PQ H9P 2N4 Canada
Phone: 514/684-1331
Fax: 888/644-8466
2) Distrivin Ltd.
950 Pl. Trans-Canada
Longueuil PQ J4G 2M1 Canada
Phone: 450/442-4487
Fax: 450/442-3531
3) Mout International, Inc.
8191 Metropolitain Est
Anjou PQ H1J 1X6 Canada
Phone: 514/354-6281
Fax: 514/354-6416
4) United Canadian Malt
843 Park St. S.
Peterborough ON K9J 3V1 Canada
Phone: 705/876-9110
Fax: 705/876-9118
5) Vineco International Products Ltd.
27 Scott St., W.
St. Catharines ON L2R 6W8 Canada
Phone: 905/685-9342
Fax: 905/685-9551
Additional Links of Interest:
PrpBrewer; An Online Resource Serving The Beer Industry:
http://www.probrewer.com/
Brewing Techniques Library:
...article index
http://brewingtechniques.com/library/index.html
Homebrewing Information Page:
...Resource Sites / Brewing Suppliers / Brewing Organizations
http://www.realbeer.com/jjpalmer/brewing.html
The Great Beer Experiment By Bill Nevits:
...homebrew experiment comparing variables of all-grain, malt extract,
liquid yeast, & dry yeast.
http://home.comcast.net/~wnevits/wizards/greatexp.htm
Brewing Applicaton notes: see: Yeast Culturing:
"As it is my experience that the most common and objectionable
contaminants of dry yeast are bacteria and mold, this process will
guarantee at least, to eliminate these most serious problems."
...although from a homebrew point of view, the process is for making
liquid yeast for brewing from a single cell.
http://schmidling.netfirms.com/appnotes.htm
Well, that should keep you busy for awhile! If you have any questions,
please post a clarification request *before* closing/rating my answer
and I'll be happy to reply. By the way, your English is fine.
Thank you,
hummer
Google Search Terms Used: "liquid yeast" and "dry yeast" but we mostly
searched our own bookmarks. |
Clarification of Answer by
hummer-ga
on
11 Feb 2005 06:51 PST
Hi tipping_point,
In my answer, I copy and pasted relevant bits for you but if you click
on the links, you will find the websites are chock-a-block full of
information and instructions. Here are some sections regarding yeast
culturing.
Yeast Propagation and Maintenance: Principles and Practices"
"Master stocks. In general, it is a good idea to keep two stock
preparations of yeast; one which is referred to as a working stock and
the other, a master stock. The working stock is for routine use such
as initiation of yeast propagation. The master stock is used to
preserve the integrity of the original yeast strain. It is only used
to replace the working stock or to propagate new master stocks. New
master stocks are prepared when viability of the current master stock
may be diminished. When this needs to be done depends on the yeast
strain and the method of storage.
Liquid Media. This is a common method of storage for homebrewers and
has also been referred to as yeast ranching or parallel yeast
culturing. The best media for this method is wort or wort-containing
media. Yeast is inoculated into 10 - 20 ml of media and grown until
it reaches the stationary phase of growth (approximately 3 days) then
stored in the refrigerator as cold as possible (40 °F). That means
don't keep it on the door. Stocks should be made in duplicate; one to
use for brewing, the other as a stock. Some homebrewers prefer to
build the 10 ml culture upto a larger volume and then dispense it into
12 oz. bottles. Storage in culture tubes or small jars also works
fine. If stored properly, these cultures are stable for up to 6
months and then must be recultured (preferably from the untouched
master stock). There are reports that storage in 10% sucrose after
growth in wort can increase the shelf-life of yeast to as long as 2
years. In this case, it seems to be necessary to remove all residual
nutrients or wort since direct addition of sucrose to the stationary
yeast leads to continued fermentation even at 40 °F. Other bona-fide
non-fermentable sugars such as lactose or glycerol may be more
suitable but have yet to be tested for improving yeast's shelf-life.
Yeast strains vary in their sensitivity to storage in liquid wort. In
general, only a small percentage of the cells survive storage.
Therefore, it may be necessary to store in volumes larger than 10 ml
especially if longer storage periods are used. Culturing in wort has
been extensively characterized by the National Collection of Yeast
Cultures (NCYC). They have cultured yeast for periods of up to 60
years and find that the mutation rate can be high. Of 600 strains
studied as many as 50% with specific nutritional markers had lost at
least some of their specific markers after culturing for 10-25 years
(that's after 20-50 passages). This was for all types of yeast
strains including brewing yeasts. 10% of the 300 brewing yeast
strains tested showed changes in flocculation behavior after 10 years
or 20 passages. Thus storage in liquid media is feasible, but it is
not the method of choice for long-term storage since it can undergo
considerable genetic drift from the original stock. It is not clear
whether minimizing the number of passages will also reduce the overall
mutation rate. "
http://www.maltosefalcons.com/tech/MB_Raines_Guide_to_Yeast_Culturing.doc
PART 4: PARALLEL YEAST CULTURES Rick Cavasin sent me (PW) the
following method of "parallel" culturing liquid yeasts. "This should
work with most packaged liquid yeasts, not just Wyeast. The advantages
here for the beginner are that (in addition to saving money) it
minimizes the problems of strain drift and contamination that can
plague yeast ranchers. As for the savings, it makes liquid yeast
almost as cheap as dry yeast! Post follows: Here's the (poor man's)
method for stretching the Wyeast that I (Rick) have been using
successfully. This method has worked for me with 4 different Wyeast
ale strains (Whitbread, Irish, German, European). It's simple and
requires no special equipment. Also, it allows several brewers to swap
yeasts with each brewer propagating one strain. Briefly, my suggestion
consists of converting the original Wyeast package into number of
'copies' stored in beer bottles. i.e. it is a parallel propagation
rather than a serial propagation. Step 1: Prepare some starter wort
(S.G. = 1.020), see Miller's book for recipe. Basically, you need
about 1/2 gallon, but if you make more and can it in mason jars (using
standard canning procedures), you will not have to prepare more at
later date. Note from PW--Most authorities now recommend using full
strength (1.040), hopped wort for starters. Step 2: Place 1/2 gallon
or so of starter wort in a suitable container (1 gallon glass jug),
pitch (inflated) Wyeast package at correct temp. and fit air lock.
This is the 'master' starter. Step 3: Allow to ferment to
*completion*. When fermentation has ceased, agitate the 'beer' to
suspend all sediment, and very carefully bottle it. You will now have
about 6 bottles of very thin beer with a good deal of viable yeast
sediment in each bottle. Use each bottle as you would use a package of
Wyeast---ie. prepare a starter culture a couple days before brewing.
This is facilitated by canning wort when you prepare the master
starter. All you need to in that case is pop open a mason jar of wort,
dump it into a sanitized bottle/jug of appropriate size, pop open one
of your bottle cultures, add it, agitate vigorously, and fit an air
lock. All yeast starters are of the same 'generation', i.e. 'twice
removed' from the original Wyeast package (as opposed to the usual
'once removed'). I've had the bottled cultures remain viable for more
than 6 months. Observe proper sanitation and wort aeration procedures
thoughout. Equipment: 1 gallon jug (for 'master' starter) 1.5 liter
wine bottle (for subsequent starters) air lock 6 beer bottles, caps
and capper Optional equipment: mason jars and canning pot. Cheers,
Rick C."
http://www.bodensatz.com/homebrew/yeast/faq/#parallel
Yeast Culturing: Simplified Procedure:
"An even simpler process can be used if one is not interested in
isolating single cells and has confidence that the starting culture is
pure.
This procedure skips the petri dish part and assumes one is starting
with a packet of liquid yeast or a culture slant obtained from a
reliable source.
After preparing the agar/wort medium and a convenient number of slant
culture tubes, they are simply inoculated directly from the culture.
Using the sterile procedure outlined above, just dip into the packet
of liquid yeast with the transfer wire and poke this into the agar in
the sterile slants. One dip is enough to inoculate several tubes. You
can use the rest of the yeast in the packet to start the next batch
but the slants can be saved for a year or more.
If you use a purchased culture slant, the same procedure applies. Poke
the wire into the yeast culture and then poke this into the slants.
Save the original for future iterations. If you started with a liquid
yeast packet, save the last slant to start a new group.
Using this simple approach, one can go several years without spending
a penny on yeast and possibly forever once you get into the "yeast
swapping" mode. I have yet to buy any yeast since I stopped using dry.
While this is not necessarily music to the ears of yeast suppliers, it
is good news to the homebrewer. That $'s for yeast in the bill of
materials becomes zero to the yeast culturer. Yeast suppliers (like
extract suppliers) will no doubt always be with us and in the case of
yeast, we need them to maintain pure strains when ours go south."
http://schmidling.netfirms.com/appnotes.htm
Yeast Culturing Practices for Small-Scale Brewers
STEP-BY-STEP INSTRUCTIONS
http://brewingtechniques.com/library/backissues/issue2.3/king.html
Culturing yeast and using slants.
http://realbeer.com/spencer/yeast-culturing.html
Yeast Management Guidelines:
http://www.wyeastlab.com/cbrew/cbmanage.htm
In regards to price lists, just phone or fax the suppliers I sent you
(Vinothèque in Dorval would be a good place to start) and they will be
happy to send you their price lists. Normally, suppliers don't post
price lists for commercial quantities on the internet.
Enjoy the snow!
hummer
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