Hi Will and Joana,
You've posed some interesting questions and at first glance, they
seemed nearly impossible to address without visiting with you at your
cabin first. We, my mate and I, have lived and worked on an organic
farm for many years (more than I care to admit!), starting as a small
self sufficient homestead and growing into a full time dairy farm
milking small but beautiful Jersey cows (the perfect family cow, with
big soft brown eyes). Although neither of us are agronomists, I feel I
understand what you are hoping to learn from posting this GA question
and given our past research for our own farm and our years of
experience, I am confident that we can lead you in the right
direction. Organic gardening and farming are vast subjects which much
have been written about, but I'll try to keep to your specific
questions. I've copied and pasted some relevant sections below but
please click on the links for full details.
-------------------------------------------------
>>> SOIL
"What can be done to either remove or, preferabbly, neutralize or
encapsulate these pesticides so as to eliminate / reduce risk of
harm?"
"What would be best way to ensure that the soil is clean enough to
plant crops for consumption (assuming a strict definition of
"organic").
You need to understand that most things added to the soil don't stay
there forever. Assuming we aren't talking about an industrial waste
dump, your land is well equipped to take care of itself given enough
time. It is your job to assist nature without interfering too much,
you will need lots of patience. Quick fixes (e.g., remove top soil
and replace) may seem like a good idea but they aren't. Assuming the
pesticide was sprayed on your field, it will in time 1) lose its
potency, 2) pesticide residues will break down by just being exposed
to the atmosphere, and 3) much of it will filter away (and hopefully
not end up in your water supply!). Soil is by nature a filter, and a
darned good one.
TABLES HALF-LIFE PESTICIDES
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/SS194
Understanding Your Soil
"Soil forms a bed for grass production and a filter for water and
water soluble materials. Generally, sandy highly porous soils have
little water holding capacity; pesticides, fertilizers and animal
waste easily infiltrate through the soil to ground and surface waters.
Clay soils absorb water slowly, so nutrients and pesticides can wash
off pastures during heavy rains. Loamy soils have good inflitration
rates and water-holding capacity, so neither runoff nor percolation to
groundwater are excessive. Loamy soils protect surface water from
contaminated runoff and groundwater from leaching of agricultural
chemicals. Pastures with steep slopes often erode and lose surface
nutrients. For more information on soils and water quality, see
EB1633, Role of Soil in Groundwater Protection."
http://cru.cahe.wsu.edu/CEPublications/eb1713/eb1713.html
How can I decontaminate my garden soil?
"There are no universally effective procedures for soil
decontamination except time or removing the soil. Some suggest that
activated charcoal is effective in adsorbing unwanted contaminants,
but pesticide contaminants are often adsorbed to the soil and not
available for immediate adsorption by charcoal. Another commonly
recommended treatment is to add some form of manure to the soil with
the hope that this will stimulate the microbial activity resulting in
rapid break down of pesticide residues. If the pesticide is water
soluble it may be leached from the root zone with excessive water.
However, this practice should be evaluated for its potential impact on
groundwater. For pesticides that are volatile, frequently turning
moist soil on a warm day, as to maximize exposure of the soil surface
to the atmosphere, may help reduce soil residue levels."
http://extoxnet.orst.edu/faqs/pesticide/pestgard.htm
Alphabetical List of Pesticide Fact Sheets
http://www.epa.gov/pesticides/factsheets/alpha_fs.htm
If you haven't done already, you must have your soil and water tested.
You need to establish not only what is there and what is lacking, but
you need a starting point to compare subsequent tests so you will be
able to determine how well and how fast things are improving.
* Visit or call your nearest State Cooperative Extension Service to
get a list of private soil and water testing laboratories certified to
test for contaminants such as pesticide. Universities and state
agricultural services test soil, but these are usually routine tests
for determining what soil amendments to apply rather than testing for
contaminants. Analyses for pesticide residues may be obtained through
the private sector if you are able to pay for it.
Cooperative Extension Services, By State
http://landscaping.about.com/library/blcooperativeextensions.htm
"Again, pesticide residues and petroleum contaminants are not
identified by these tests. Analyses for these are expensive, but may
be obtained through the private sector."
http://www.umass.edu/plsoils/soiltest/soilbrocha.htm
Pesticides in Drinking Water
http://www.slh.wisc.edu/ehd/pamphlets/pesticide.php
AM Test Laboratories
"In addition to the testing of nutrients, Am Test can also provide
testing services with respect to a variety of contaminants. Heavy
Metals, Herbicides, Pesticides and various Petroleum Products
(gasoline, diesel fuel, oil) are among a number of contaminants that
may have an adverse impact on plant growth, as well as on your
health."
http://www.amtestlab.com/pages/soils.htm
* Visit or call your nearest university and request a routine soil
test for nutrients. After testing, they will not only give the results
but also give recommendations on what fertilizer is needed.
Soil Tests
"To collect a soil sample for testing, obtain a soil information
sheet, directions on taking a soil sample and a list of independent
testing laboratories from your local WSU Cooperative Extension agent.
Follow the directions for collecting a soil sample. Mail your samples
to a lab for analysis. The lab will send you the test results and
fertilization recommendations. Some fertilizer companies offer free
soil tests, but it may be wise to use an independent lab that has no
connection between the test it conducts and the product it sells."
http://cru.cahe.wsu.edu/CEPublications/eb1713/eb1713.html
Soil and Plant Tissue Testing Laboratory at the University of Massachusetts
http://www.umass.edu/plsoils/soiltest/
Soil Testing Laboratory at the University of Minnesota
http://soiltest.coafes.umn.edu/
Rutgers Soil Testing Laboratory
http://www.rce.rutgers.edu/soiltestinglab/
Taking a soil sample
"General rules for sampling soils
* Individual blocks or paddocks or areas of paddocks likely to have
been subjected to different chemical treatments should be sampled
separately.
* The area sampled should be of the one soil type.
* Do not mix different soil types.
* Preferably, soil should be collected using a core-type sampling
tool. These may be available for loan from your nearest Department of
Primary Industries (DPI) office. Alternatively, you can construct your
own using a clean section of metal pipe between 1-3 cm diameter.
* Sample a typical area. Avoid any part of the paddock which is
atypical eg: fencelines, headlands, near gates, troughs, dams or
trees.
* Targeted sampling from small areas, eg: around power poles, fence
posts, old tree stumps or old dip sites, may be required to identify
residue 'hot spots'.
Because of the variable distribution of chemical residues in soil,
this sampling procedure is more rigorous than that required for soil
fertility testing.
Each sample should consist of a composite of 40 cores, each 10 cm
deep. At least one composite sample should be taken for every 5 ha
(12.5 acres). Mentally divide the area to be sampled (no more than 5
ha) into 40 equal areas or zones, using fence posts or other markers
as a guide. Take one core from each zone. Alternatively, divide the
area into twenty zones and take two cores from each. Combine all the
cores in a clean container such as a bucket and mix thoroughly. Remove
about 1/2 - 1 kg of soil and package up for transport to the
laboratory."
http://www.dpi.vic.gov.au/DPI/nreninf.nsf/childdocs/-2BAF4D73531CD1544A2568B3000505AF-57D1EB72F146450ECA256BC80004E8DD-966D71ECF369B7C44A256DEA0027B670-B0F62ED95036E640CA256C19000EFFD4?open
>>> ORGANIC FARMING
Now here is the good news. It takes three years, from the time
prohibited materials are discontinued, for a farm to be certified as
organic in the U.S. This means that even if you do nothing, in three
years the natural elements of nature will have cleaned your property
for you.
How long does it take to transition land farmed conventionally to organic status?
In order to be eligible for organic certification, land must have had
no prohibited materials applied to it for three years immediately
preceding harvest.
http://www.sarep.ucdavis.edu/organic/complianceguide/faq.htm
Certification
http://www.ams.usda.gov/nop/NOP/standards/CertReg.html
Accreditation
http://www.ams.usda.gov/nop/NOP/standards/AccredReg.html
The National List of Allowed and Prohibited Substances
http://www.ams.usda.gov/nop/NOP/standards/ListReg.html
-----------------------------------------------
>>> COMPOST / GREEN MANURE
"Are there any plants or microbes that could be worked into the soil
(talking a bunch of acreage - so plants would be better) that wold
either neutralize and/or absorb and stabilize the above items?
To help your land "do its thing", there are a number of things you can
do to help it. First and foremost is to get that compost pile going.
Not only will compost help to "stimulate the microbial activity
resulting in rapid break down of pesticide residues", compost will
help to restore the soil to a healthy condition.
Home Composting
http://www.mass.gov/dep/recycle/compost.htm
Building a Compost Bin
http://muextension.missouri.edu/explore/agguides/hort/g06957.htm
Compost It's Mulch Better
http://www.dep.state.pa.us/dep/deputate/airwaste/wm/recycle/compost_sum/home.htm
Composting Links
http://anka.livstek.lth.se:2080/compost.htm
GREEN MANURE / COVER CROPS
GREEN MANURE
Grow Something Good for Your Soil
"Green manure is simply any crop grown to be turned into, or cut down
to lay on top of, the ground for the purpose of adding organic matter
and nutrients to the soil. No matter if your garden is ?tiny small? or
?acres large?, you can make use of green manure. Any part of your
garden not growing a crop can be growing some green manure.
Basically, you plant the seed, let the crop grow, then dig or till it
in or cut it down to lay on the ground to rot. When you feed your
soil, you feed your garden, and green manure is a great food. All the
plants growing in your garden can be considered green manure. Just let
them rot where they are. But sometimes you want to add a little more.
Plant matter has been the only input in my garden for years, except
for a very small amount of compost here and there, and it produces
more than enough healthy food for our use with enough left over to
keep the insects satisfied."
http://www.manytracks.com/Garden/GreenManure.htm
Cover Crops and Green Manure Crops
The Difference Between a Green Manure and a Cover Crop
"A cover crop is numerous numbers of plants, usually specific annual,
biennial, or perennial grasses or legumes, growing and covering the
soil surface.
When the cover crop is tilled into the soil it is referred to as a
green manure crop.
These two terms are often used interchangeably."
http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/garden/07744.html
"Green manuring - growing crops especially for their organic matter
and ability to improve the soil - can dramatically build up poor and
exhausted soils and maintain the fertility of better ones. "
Green manuring will help your soil in many ways. Perhaps most
important, it boosts your plot's organic matter (O.M.) level. And a
high O.M. level (2.5 to 4%)
- keeps nutrients from leaching down beyond reach of crops,
- provides food for microbial soil life,
- helps legumes fix nitrogen in their root nodules,
- and helps the soil produce good structure and maintain the air-pore
spaces essential to good crop health.
In addition, your green manure crops will till the soil for you.
Alfalfa, for instance, can send down roots as deep as 60 feet, pulling
up nutrients for next year's crops. A single rye plant grown in good
soil can produce an average of three miles of roots per day - 387
miles of roots and 6,603 miles of root hairs in a season! Such root
and roothair growth will fiberize the soil, helping loose soils bind
together and clay ones open up.
Green manures also provide a living mulch that will protect soil from
erosion and other weathering effects. Indeed, right now, during the
late summer and early fall, is an excellent time to put in a green
manure crop. The plants will protect your garden from winter damage
and will produce organic matter during the off-season, when much of.
your plot would otherwise lie fallow. Then next spring, your soil will
have good tilth instead of being hard and compacted.
Many fall-planted green manure crops will also pump excess water out
of the soil, allowing you to prepare the soil and plant crops much
earlier than usual. Fava beans, for instance, can pump soil dry in as
little as five days of warm weather. (If, on the other hand, you are
trying to conserve soil moisture in early spring, you may want to
harvest your green manure crop on the first warm day.)"
http://www.motherearthnews.com/top_articles/1986_September_October/Green_Manure_Crops
Definition: Cover crops and green manures
"Considerable confusion occurs relative to the use of the terms cover
crops and green manures, as they are used in different ways by
different authors. The terms are often used interchangeably.
Traditionally the term "green manures" has referred to plants which
are turned under or incorporated into the soil while green, or soon
after flowering, in order to enrich the soil. In recent years however,
the term has been used more loosely, and green manure may sometimes
refer to plants or plant vegetation which may be applied as a mulch to
the soil, either slashed and fresh or after the plant has dried out."
http://ppathw3.cals.cornell.edu/mba_project/gmcc/ccgmdef.html
----------------------------------------------
>>> BREEDS
"Along the same lines, we'd like to start raising some cattle and
chickens totally without any of the above pollutants. Are there
specific breeds of cows and chickens (and/or turkeys) that are better
suited for this? Where could they be obtained?"
For small farms, breeds to look for are generally those that pack alot
into a small packages (quality rather than quantity). Jersey cows are
a perfect example of that. They are small so they weigh less, eat less
(both hay and pasture) and in turn give less milk. That may sound like
a fault until you realize that milk from a Jersey is higher in milk
solids, protein, and fat compared to other larger breeds who give
higher volumes of milk (water) but the milk is lower in nutritive
value. The same can be said about smaller beef breeds, who are very
efficient at converting pasture feed into meat. In addition to the
size, look for dual purpose breeds (for example eggs and meat),
friendly natures (you want to like them), and hardy breeds that don't
require alot of pampering. Heritage breeds are gaining in popularity
(the old varieties that grandma used to keep) and most would be
suitable for you. As far as where to purchase them, visit your nearest
Cooperative Extension Service (see link under "Soil" above) - they
will be able to help you.
Organic Farming
What feed additives and supplements are permitted?
Natural (nonsynthetic) feed additives and supplements are permitted,
as are synthetic substances that are on the National List. These
include synthetic vitamins and minerals, which are limited to the
amount necessary for adequate nutrition. Slaughter by-products are
prohibited for feeding to mammals and poultry, and urea and manure
re-feeding is prohibited for all livestock. Synthetic amino acids are
not included on the National List, with the exception of a temporary
allowance granted for methionine for use in poultry until October
2005."
http://www.sarep.ucdavis.edu/organic/complianceguide/faq.htm
>>> POULTRY
CHICKEN
The ICYouSee
Handy-Dandy Chicken Charts:
Our Flock (Backyard Breeds)
On this chart are the fourteen breeds that make up our flock. Unlike
most of the breeds on the original ICYouSee Handy Dandy Chicken Breed
Chart, these are breeds with which I have had first-hand experience.
Most of the breeds listed on this page are Dual Purpose -- breeds
developed both for their egg production and use as table birds. With a
few exceptions, all of our birds, hens and cocks, have done well in a
mixed-breed, backyard, small-scale free-ranging flock. All of the
breeds have proven robust in our New York State climate. Some have
thrived, and all have survived in an unheated hen house through
winters where outside temperatures can reach 20 below (Fahrenheit)
with no more special protection than coating of petroleum jelly on the
combs and wattles of some single-combed cocks."
http://www.ithaca.edu/staff/jhenderson/chooks/dual.html
The ICYouSee
Handy-Dandy Chicken Chart:
Alphabetical List
http://www.ithaca.edu/staff/jhenderson/chooks/chooks.html
Advice for Small Flock Owners - links
"Sites listed here are those with an emphasis on care, health, and
flock management and other advice about poultry. Some may include
information about the different breeds as well."
http://www.ithaca.edu/staff/jhenderson/chooks/chlinks.html#care
GEESE
Mother Earth News
" Geese are the cheapest and easiest of all poultry to raise.
Extremely hardy, they are rarely affected by any disease or insect
pests. After they are two weeks old all they need is plenty of water
and grass and they will gain a pound a week until they are about 12
weeks old. They may be eaten at this age and are called "green geese".
Geese have no use for fancy housing - a simple 3 sided shed where they
can keep dry in the severest winter weather is all they want for they
prefer to stay in the open even at night.. As for fencing, any low
wall or fence 36 inches high holds them. At breeding time geese make
their own nests, hatch their own eggs."
http://www.motherearthnews.com/Livestock_and_Farming/1970_March_April/Geese_Grow_On_Grass
>>> LIVESTOCK
The first thing a would-be small-scale meat producer has to decide is
which creatures to raise.
COMPARING THE FIVE BEST BACKYARD ANIMALS
Randy Kidd
NO "MOO"
"As you read on, you'll soon notice that I've limited this analysis to
rabbits, chickens, sheep, goats, and pigs . . . and left out the most
popular mainstay of the American barnyard: the cow. The reason for
that omission is the fact that although a beef or dairy cow could
probably be kept in a very large back yard, Bossy poses many more
problems than do other domestic animals for the limited-space meat
producer.
For one thing, a cow's contribution to the manure pile can be pretty
sizable. Bovine animals also require quite sturdy fencing, and
butchering one of the critters demands a great deal of help and effort
(while the 500 to 600 pounds of beef thus harvested will stuff a
freezer so full that you'll have no room left for other foods). Last
but not least, cows need considerable grazing room-at the least, an
acre of lush pasture-which is more land than many homesteaders can
spare."
Rabbits / Chicken / Sheep / Goats / Pigs
BACKYARD LIVESTOCK COMPARISON CHART
http://www.motherearthnews.com/top_articles/1982_November_December/Comparing_the_Five_Best_Backyard_Livestock_Animals
Livestock on Small Acreages
Protecting Water Resources and Health
One animal unit = 1,000 pounds of live animal weight.
One to two acres of land is needed to support one animal unit.
http://www.uri.edu/ce/healthylandscapes/livstck1_final.pdf
DAIRY
TEN COMMANDMENTS FOR RAISING
A BACKYARD DAIRY COW: PART I
http://www.motherearthnews.com/library/1981_July_August/Ten_Commandments_for_Raising_A_Backyard_Dairy_Cow__Part_I
Mother Earth News
Ideal Small Farm Cows DEXTER Cattle
"Pound for pound, no bovine can match the diversity of Dexter cattle,
one of the smallest cattle breeds. Standing just 36 to 44 inches at
the shoulder, Dexters are the perfect old-fashioned, family cow.
Gentle, versatile and economical, Dexters efficiently turn pasture
into rich milk and lean meat, if you're so inclined. In recent years,
interest in Dexter cattle has surged worldwide."
http://www.motherearthnews.com/library/2001_December_January/Ideal_Small_Farm_Cows__Dexter_Cattle
The Amazing Irish Dexters
"Suppose someone could "invent" the perfect cow for homesteaders . . .
what would the bovine beauty be like? Well, the animal would probably
be an economical, small beast that required about half the grazing
land of an ordinary cow or steer . . . yet still gave a fine yield of
both milk and beef, right? Not only that (as long as we're
fantasizing, we might as well go all the way!), but the critter would
be so docile and friendly that it could be a domestic pet as well as a
livestock animal!"
http://www.motherearthnews.com/library/1980_March_April/The_Amazing_Irish_Dexters
BEEF
Backyard Beef
http://www.motherearthnews.com/Livestock_and_Farming/2002_April_May/Backyard_Beef
Backyard Beef
http://www.motherearthnews.com/Livestock_and_Farming/1980_May_June/Raise_Grass_Fed_Beef
Breeds of Cattle
http://www.ansi.okstate.edu/breeds/cattle/
GOATS / SHEEP
Breeds of Goats
http://www.ansi.okstate.edu/breeds/goats/
Breeds of Sheep
http://www.ansi.okstate.edu/breeds/sheep/
>>> ADDITIONAL LINKS OF INTEREST
Bacteria offer a solution to pesticide poisoning
http://www.teriin.org/teriscope/resupdates/2bact.htm
Enzymes tackle another pesticide residue problem
www.ento.csiro.au/pdfs/articles/Cottonenzyme_sep02.pdf&ei=p04HQ5utIYPIaJqW1LgO
Deactivating Herbicide Residues
http://www.dupont.com/ag/vm/literature/K-06168.pdf
Soil Washing as a cleanp method - A TOSC Fact Sheet
http://www.egr.msu.edu/tosc/dutchboy/factsheets/fs_soil_washing.shtml
BIOREMEDIATION SOIL
http://www.50connect.co.uk/index.asp?main=http%3A//64.233.161.104/search%3Fq%3Dcache%3AaL7mIjGU09AJ%3Awww.50connect.co.uk/50c/articlePages/homeandgardens_index.asp%253Fsc%253Dvegetableandherbgardens%2526aID%253D12567+organic+gardening+chicken+manure+fed+commercial+feed%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dfirefox-a
The Soil Association's online library contains more than 400 documents
about organic issues and our work. Each document is categorised so
getting to the right information is easy - just click on a category or
search for a keyword or phrase.
http://www.soilassociation.org/library
>>> BOOKS
Rodale's All-New Encyclopedia of Organic Gardening : The Indispensable
Resource for Every Gardener
by Fern Marshall Bradley (Editor), Barbara W. Ellis (Editor)
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0875965997/
Encyclopedia of Organic Gardening
by J I Rodale
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0875960618/
The Organic Gardener's Handbook of Natural Insect and Disease Control :
A Complete Problem-Solving Guide to Keeping Your Garden and Yard
Healthy Without Chemicals
by Barbara W. Ellis
http://www.amazon.com/gp/reader/0875967531/
The Rodale Book of Composting : Easy Methods for Every Gardener
by Grace Gershuny
http://www.amazon.com/gp/reader/0878579915/
Let it Rot! : The Gardener's Guide to Composting
by Stu Campbell
http://www.amazon.com/gp/reader/1580170234/
Great Garden Companions : A Companion-Planting System for a Beautiful,
Chemical-Free Vegetable Garden
by Sally Jean Cunningham
http://www.amazon.com/gp/reader/0875968473/
Backyard Livestock: Raising Good Natural Food for Your Family
by Steven Thomas
http://www.amazon.com/gp/reader/0881501824/
The Encyclopedia of Country Living: An Old Fashioned Recipe Book
by Carla Emery
http://www.amazon.com/gp/reader/0912365951/
The New Seed Starter's Handbook
by Nancy Bubel
http://www.amazon.com/gp/reader/0878577521/
Successful Small-Scale Farming : An Organic Approach
by Karl Schwenke
http://www.amazon.com/gp/reader/0882666428/
Basic Book of Organic Gardening
by Robert Rodale
http://www.bookfinder.com/search/?author=&title=Basic+Book+of+Organic+Gardening&submit=Begin+Search&new_used=*&world_english=on&binding=*&isbn=&keywords=&minprice=&maxprice=&classic=on¤cy=USD&mode=advanced&st=sr&ac=qr
You can search for used books at BookFinders as I did for the "Basic
Book of Organic Gardening".
I enjoyed working on this for you and I hope you find my research hits
the spot. I feel the most important pieces of information here are the
organic certification 3 year rule, soil and water testing, and the
Co-op Extension Services (they are a wealth of information and are
there to help you). If you have any questions, please do not hesitate
to post a clarification request and I'll do my best to help (wait for
me to respond before closing/rating my answer).
Thank you,
hummer
Some of the search terms that I used (I tried many):
organic gardening
green manure
compost
soil testing
biological farming
small scale farming
backyard livestock
small cattle breeds
grow your own
organic certification |
