Time Limit: 1 month
I have a second story casement (crank open) type window with the hinge
on the right side.  The dimensions are 25 width by 55 height (inches).
 I also have a hard-wired backup generator (12500w).  I would like to
put in a portable (rollable) type A/C so that I can use it for the
next power outage with a hurricane.  The problem i have is with
venting the unit.  When I crank the window open, I get a triangular
opening at the top and bottom, and an rectangular opening at the side.
 I would need to somehow fill this void and make it rainproof.  I
cannot access this window from outside, as it is very high and there
is no adjacent window.

The other option would be to have a small window unit in the closet
that can be easily installed without killing my back or putting huge
screws and putty into my new window casings.  The obvious solution
would be to make a plywood template and then screw it in place.  This
would wreck the casement.

Any answers are appreciated.

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Request for Question Clarification by pafalafa-ga on 19 Sep 2005 07:36 PDT

The mobile units generally have a smallish (about 4-inch) hose that
needs to be vented to the outside.

A messy option is to tape heavy plastic over the entire window
opening, then cut an opening for the vent, and tape-it securely into
place (you can do almost anything with duct tape!).

But you may also want to look around for other venting options.  Are
there other appliances in your home -- washer/dryer, water heater, etc
-- that are vented to the outside?  You may want to try and make use
of one of these, instead of the window.

Lastly, it probably wouldn't be that big a job to hire someone to
install a vent through your wall...it could be kept closed at all
times except for those (hopefully rare) emergencies when it's needed.

Let us know if any of these options works for you.

pafalafa-ga

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Clarification of Question by pensacola-ga on 19 Sep 2005 21:40 PDT

There is not a dryer vent, etc. that would work- I'm trying to set up
just one small bedroom.  I also don't really want to put a hole in the
wall- brick exterior.

How about something like this:

http://www.atlassales.com/mini_specs_pac220.html

Yes, any of these portable type units would work.  The problem is not
finding an acceptable unit; the problem is venting it.

I expect that a unit would have a 5" or 10" venting hose.
What about a piece of plywood with the appropriate sized hole that fit
closely in the open window frame?  Plexiglass would work too, but more
expensive.  Perhaps two pieces would be easier to manage and might be
necessary to fit them in place.
I expect that the window frame is metal, probably with a flange that
the pieces could be wedged against.

This is what the window looks like:

http://www.kolbe-kolbe.com/photoGallery/index.cfm?page=photogallery&sub=photoGalleryDetail&rlspage=226&pcat=15&startrow=61

Yes, the plywood would create a closure that you could put a hose
through.  If i am going the plywood screwed to the expensive-finish
all wood (no metal) casing route, I would just bolt up the plywood and
put in a window unit.  That may be the only answer, but I was hoping
someone would have a unique solution that I just haven't thought of.

I got the picture  - nice!
I still imagine that the frame is stepped so that the plywood would
not fall out, just need to be fastened it some way, ...
Ah,
but now it occurs to me that if there is a stepping of some kind, one
could have the board an inch or so larger than the dimensions of the
window frame and hang it on the bottom of the frame (appropriately
dimensioned wooden blocks), with similar blocks on the side and top
that could be turned  - toggles -  to hook inside the window frame on
the other three sides.  Probably should have a good handle or two
mounted on the plywood to hold it while it is being put in place (have
to turn it to get it out through the open window).
Was that comprehensible?
I really like this, because it gets the board on the outside, better
for rain protection, and eliminates your worries about marring your
frame.

In principle, this would work regardless of the details of the window
frame, since the "hooks" and toggles could be big enough to catch on
the room-side of the frame.

How's that?  If it works, you can sell the idea up and down the coast
(but not in Mobile, grew up there and have my own agent  ;)
Myoarin

Hello pensacola-ga,

Did you see my request for clarification comments (above, right under
your question)?  If so, I'd like to know your thoughts.

paf

I do really like the toggle idea.  If you could just guide me a
little.  There is a brick ledge on the outside, so supporting it there
is not a problem.  I will need to keep the plywood pulled tight enough
to the frame to make it stable.  If I understand, the plywood will
overlap the entire window frame an inch or so.  I will  have bolts
with washers on the outside of the plywood.  There will be padded
blocks on the inside that will be twisted into position.   What keeps
the wood from pulling away from the edge of the frame (it seems like
there would be a triangular gap with the block only touching at the
very edge of the frame).  Would it be better just to put a padded 2x4
at the top, middle, and bottom all the way across the window frame on
the inside with wing nuts to tighten them?  I could have a platform
built into the plywood to support the a/c unit once the apparatus is
in place.

Pensi,
Glad you like the idea, and you are already ahead of me with bolts and
washers and padded blocks for the toggles.  These could be tightened
with thumbscrews, but you've probably envisioned that already.
I don't understand where the triangular gap would appear.  
We've got a sheet of plywood slightly larger than the frame (25+" by
55+"), man-handled out to rest on the brick sill (got to have those
handles).  The toggles are hanging loosely on their bolts, maybe three
on each side and one in the middle at the top.  When the toggles have
been turned and tightened, where is the triangular gap?

Your idea with the 2x4s would work, no doubt, but with 1/2" or 3/4"
plywood, to me this seems unnecessary.  ??

About your rack for the a/c unit:  I have been considering a portable
floor unit (your back!) with this as a solution for blocking the open
window with a hole for the vent hose.  I wouldn't want to burden our
construction with a window a/c unit.  Are there ones than fit the <25"
space?

Let me know what you think, and further questions.
Regards, Myoarin

What i mean by a triangular gap is that the bolts will tend to want to
lean inward (towards the center of the window opening). The thickness
of the window casing will be about 6-8" from exterior face to interior
face.  The wooden toggle will not stay parallel to the wall, but will
want to lean inward towards the window opening.  That is why i am
wondering if i need a 2x4 to span the entire 25" of the width of the
window frame.

I think you're right about the portable unit.  They do make small
window units that are cheaper and probably more reliable than
portable; but,  If i use a portable, i could use just 1/4" plywood and
not support any load.  I may try that first and then go to the window
unit if needed.

Let me know what you think about the toggle design and thanks for the
answer.  I will send payment after your comment (i don't know if it
will kill the thread if i do it now).  Thanks again.

Gotcha!
The toggles should have a broad base on the plywood, extending away
from the side that hooks onto the frame.  Hmm, can I make a diagram?


             ___!_!____________
             !  ! !            !
             !  ! !           /
       ______!  ! !          /
      !         ! !         /
      !_________!_!________/ 
                ! !
                 ^  bolt hole

Kind of crude, but I hope you get the idea.  That should keep 1/4"
plywood flat, but I would go for a bit thicker stuff, that will be
stiffer between the toggles. I am a stingy SOB, but have learned that
it is better not to skimp on material (marine quality plywood, too). 
;)  Which reminds me:  if the board rests on the brick sill, be sure
to include the extra length if you have it cut to measure where you
buy it.

Thank you for your offer to pay, but only Researchers like Pafalafa
and Redhoss, whose names appear in blue, can "answer" questions and
receive payment.
It has been my pleasure to help.

I hope the next big storm does not come your way.
Take care, Myoarin