I have taken a 25 gallon gas water heater to use in an "El Paso" type
(off the internet) supplementary hot water heater system. Originally
vertical, the tank is now in use laid horizontally. The original inlet
and outlet openings have been plugged, and 2 simmilar plugs removed
from what is the bottom of the horizontal tank. What is the 'cold'
inlet feeds directly into the bottom of the tank, and what is the
'hot' outlet is connected to part of the old 'dip tube' which leads at
a slight angle past the original chimney to as high up in the tank as
could be managed.
The problem is that, the tank fills but does not discharge. At least,
the disharge is slow or non existent. So I end up with no hot water at
the house faucets.
To isolate the problem area, I 'broke' the lines to the inlet and
outlet of the collector and tried a direct feed to the inlet with the
same result - no noticeable flow. I tried feeding through the outlet,
again no noticeable flow; and, on disconnecting the feed line there
was an escape of air, indicating some kind of blockage. A lcal plumber
suggested that the problem was that the outlet should be at the top of
the tank (for which there is no provision, but in any case isn't that
what the dip tube is for? What should I be doing?

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Request for Question Clarification by alienintelligence-ga on 25 Aug 2002 16:31 PDT

Hi hisnibs...

Since this tank was in prior use... are you
sure there isn't sedimentary buildup that
you dislodged when turning it on end? 

Are you sure that the dip tube on your unit
doesn't have some type of safety or check
valve?

Have you considered having someone weld
a bung into the "top" of the tank?


-AI

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Clarification of Question by hisnibs-ga on 25 Aug 2002 18:03 PDT

Hi A-I,
1. Yes there is sediment, and for this reason I installed filters to
prevent it raching the solenoid valves. Also when the water does run
out of the 'cold' inlet there is no carry of sediment. I have
considered a 'floating slab' of solid salts which covers the inlet,
and which lifts by incoming pressure; then as the water rises and
covers the slab it settles. the more water over the slab adding more
downward pressure to grdually close off the flow until the tank is
full.(When this happens the drain valve acting as a vent to the hot
outlet closes) Continueing water feed applying municipal water
pressure finally applies enough pressure to close off (other than
seepage) the cold inlet. This seems more logical than anything else.
2. No there is not a check valve in the dip tube. (Unless you consider
the solenoid drain valve in item 1). Interestingly, when diconnecting
the tank from the plumbing; feed through the cold inlet eventually
runs out the hot outlet. BUT AT A MUCH LOWER RATE.
3. Yes! But what is the point. I am hesitant because this is a glass
lined tank.

Further.
With the Collector tank disconnected I connected the pipes leading to
the internal plumbing with a short tube, in effect 'short circuiting
the system' and the total internal water pressure dropped. I thought
I'd be able to shower, and all I got was a dribble.   When I by-passed
the 'solar system' inside,  pressures returned to normal. I am puzzled
that 3 Normally Closed solenoid valves, when open should create enough
back pressure to hold up normal water pressures.
SO IN EFFECT I've got 2 sources of blockage.