THE Directory has a list of links to "Do It Yourself" websites. Most
of these sites will require to you to purchase the blueprints. If you
are looking for free blueprints, check out Absolutely Free Plans. And
if you are looking for some instructional help in your project, I
suggest the New Yankee Workshop. Another site to consider would be the
WoodStore, which not only has blueprints which can be purchased, but
plans which can be downloaded over the Internet if you are comfortable
with using Adobe Acrobat. If you don't have the software, this site
also has a link to Adobe which will allow you to download Acrobat
Reader 5.0 for free.
Since you are the only person who really knows what you want in
regards to aesthetics, I suggest you browse through each site's plans
and pick out the plan which best suites your tastes and needs. If you
find a plan which appeals to you but has a standard 12, 16 or 24 inch
overhang, don't despair. Simply take the plan and modify it by
shortening the top cords of the trusses, hips and jack rafters to be
flush with the heel (the heel is the portion which sits upon the tops
of the walls) of the bottom cord. Simply build one truss according to
plans. Once completed, take a standard square and place it along the
bottom of the bottom cord. Slide it to the end and draw your line
straight up and simply cut of the excess. Then take a measurement from
the peak of the truss to the end of the top cord (a long to short
measure).
There are some things to watch for when attaching flush fascia. Make
sure the bottom cords of your trusses, jack rafters and hips are the
proper width, meaning they should be cut flush to the building's
exterior cladding. And do not attach your fascia flush with the upper
face of the top cord. Drop the fascia so that the outside edge is
flush with the top face of the truss. By doing this, your roof
sheathing will lay flat from the fascia to the peak. And don't forget
to put ridge blocking in across the peak of your roof.
Links
THE Directory: http://www.gardenbuildings.com/directory/Plans/
Absolutely Free Plans: http://absolutelyfreeplans.com/
The New Yankee Workshop: http://www.newyankee.com/
The WoodStore: http://woodstore.woodmall.com/
Search Parameters
Google Advanced Search:
All Words: sheds
Exact Phrase: building blueprints
Hope this helps you. If you have any further questions, don't
hestitate to respond. I have roughly 12 years of experience in the
construction industry and should be able to help you. |
Clarification of Answer by
mrlathwell-ga
on
25 Oct 2002 12:52 PDT
HIP ROOF: locally known as a COTTAGE ROOF; a roof with four pitched
sides, the line where two slopes of a roof meet is called a hip.
Terminology may change from region to region, therefore I will provide
the descriptions of the elements which form a truss as I learned them
in Alberta.
The bottom cord is the base of the truss. It sits atop of the walls;
the length is the distance between the top plates of the two parallel
side walls. In a house, the bottom cords of the trusses would form the
framework for the top floor ceiling. The top cords form the sloped
portion of the truss. The peak is the point at which the two top cords
meet. The heel of a truss is the portion which sits atop the walls.
The king post is the vertical support between the peak and the center
of the bottom cord. Queen posts are vertical supports at points
(usually half-way) between the king post and heels of the truss. The
slope is the degree of the angle. A 5/12 slope has a rise of five
inches for a run of every twelve inches. Therefore, if one were to
measure from the end or heel of the bottom cord and make marks at one
foot intervals, the difference in the height between the top cord and
bottom cord at any two adjacent points would be five inches. The
greater the numerator in this fraction, the greater the slope.
If you think of a truss as a triangle, the bottom cord would be the
base of the triangle, while the top cords would be the sides. The king
post would be the center line and the slope would be the interior
angles at both ends of the baseline. If you also wish, you could check
out the Canadian Building Digest (
http://www.nrc.ca/irc/cbd/cbd018e.html ). Diagrams of the various
truss styles can be viewed roughly halfway through the article.
Bottom cords are not required in the construction of roofs. If one
desires a open ceiling concept, a beam and post system can be used;
posts at either end of the structure support a beam which itself
supports a joist system to form the frame work of the roof. The joists
have angle cuts at both ends. One end rests on top of the wall, the
other across the face of the beam in specially designed hangers. This
type of system is very stylish and commonly used in A-Frame type
structures which features gables at either end of the roof. But it
doesn't adapt well to a cottage (hip) style of roof. Which is why I
recommended a truss system.
A cottage style roof is likely one of the most difficult styles of
roof to construct and it is best to work with someone with previous
experience. But I will try to provide you with some aspects of
constructing such a roof.
In constructing a cottage-style roof, you will need to construct two
hip girders. These will provide the base for the directional change of
the trusses; the jack rafters (basically trusses cut in half so there
is only one sloped surface) will be attached perpendicular to the hip
girder. You will also need four hip rafters, which will form the
sloped corner lines or the hips of the cottage roof. This is likely
going to be the trickiest portion of the roof. The angles of hip
rafters vary slightly from the slope of an average truss. If you used
a conventional slope of 4/12, 5/12 or 6/12, sloped roof to maintain a
similar slope along the corners or hips of the roof, you will need to
cut angles equivalent to 4/18, 5/18, or 6/18 (rounded for your
convenience). The heel height will also have to be adjusted to bring
the top edge of the hip rafter flush with the top cords of the other
trusses. You will also need eight corner sets which fill in the areas
between the hip girders and jack rafters with the hip rafters. The
number of normal trusses will depend on the length of the structure.
The usual spacing for all the components of a trussed roof system is
two feet on center.
To view a rudimentary drawing of a hip roof, check out
http://www.heritage.nf.ca/society/rhs/glossary/23.html or one might
want to contact the National Roofing Contractors Association (
http://www.roofonline.org/
) regarding instructional diagrams.
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