Hello thaddeus76,
Thanks for an interesting question.
The first page I found in my search talked about the damage that can
be done by carpenter ants but did not go into a specific description
of the carpenter ant. They do have a good suggestion for ridding an
area however:
"Although they don’t eat the wood, they tunnel through it to build
elaborate, inter-connected galleries that can’t be seen from the
outside but can seriously weaken the wood...
To get rid of carpenter ants, kill the reproductive ants in the nest;
dust boric acid powder into the infested area. If the nest area is
inaccessible, drill holes around it and apply boric acid powder or use
an insecticide that would be recommended by a professional
exterminator. Keep in mind, however, that colonies of carpenter ants
can develop quite quickly, so it might be preferable to have
professional exterminators do the job."
Real Estate Weekly http://www.reweekly.ca/content_view?CONTENT_ID=177
I then searched for wood eating ant and came across this description
of carpenter ants at
http://www.safe2use.com/pests/carpenter-ants/ant-carpenter.htm :
"GENERAL DESCRIPTION
Adult - The most visible ant found in and around buildings; they are
large, approximately 1 /4" to 3/4" in length. Thorax evenly rounded.
Circle of hairs at abdomen tip. (Polymorphic adults will vary in size
in the same nest.) Black, yellowish or black variegated with reddish
(rusty) brown or grayish in color. At least ten species are native to
the United States; they are found nesting in decaying wood, including
lumber in buildings, but do not eat wood; primary foods are honeydew
derived from other insects, as well as fruit, fruit juice, meat,
grease, fat and dead insects. Their thin waist consists of one petiole
or "knot" which is pointed. The legs are long and the antennae
elbowed. The winged forms have four wings, the front wings longer and
larger than the hind wings. The male can be distinguished from the
female by its smaller head and protruding genitalia. Ants in the genus
Crematogasta are also called "carpenter ants". The most common species
is Lineolata (Say) which is variably colored and only about 1/8" long.
They sound like crinkling cellophane as they move about inside their
nests. "
So, they do appear to vary in size to as small as 1/8th inch, further
indicating that what you are seeing may well be one of the carpenter
ant species. Further on, they mention "Carpenter ants are usually a
symptom of a water leak or moisture problem because they usually nest
in wood that remains wet.", again indicating that this could well be
what you are seeing at the hot tub.
This page, entitled "Facts about Carpenter Ants", continues with this
helpful information:
"NATURE OF INJURY - These ants carve galleries into the damaged/soft
wood (with the grain) to make their nest. They may eventually hollow
out and damage sound structural timbers. They are also a visual
annoyance as they wander in search of food, and the foraging workers
have rather large mandibles with which they can bite. Bang on the wall
and then listen for carpenter ant nests with a stethoscope.
FOOD - They do not eat wood, they only cut galleries and create frass
(wood fragments or sawdust) as they hollow out their nests from
decayed areas in your building. Workers forage for sweet food such as
honeydew, syrups, honey, jelly sugar and other sweet materials, e.g.,
apples and fruit, or even garbage, dead or living insects, grease, fat
and/or meat scraps. They may travel 300 feet or more from the brood
nest to find food. Food is carried back to the nest where it is
regurgitated and used to feed the queen, larva and non-foraging
workers. "
So, you might check the area to see what food source you might be able
to remove or prune.
They continue with suggestions for locating the nests:
"For control of carpenter ant infestation, you must locate the nest.
Some people have had success putting out sugary food and/or trays of
frozen crickets and following the ants carrying food back to their
nest. If you can remove the nest completely, no further control will
be needed. Otherwise, poison the nest with boric acid, sodium borate,
silica gel or diatomaceous earth. Install negative ion plates. "
I found this page very interesting and complete and recommend you read
it in full to better understand what you are dealing with.
Some pictures of carpenter ants may be found here:
http://www.internet4classrooms.com/susan/antpics.htm and if you are so
inclined, you can view a movie of carpenter ants dining here :
http://www.internet4classrooms.com/susan/antfeeder.MOV
An Adobe pdf file entitled "Indentifying and Controlling Wood
Destroying Insects" can be found here:
http://www1.uwex.edu/ces/pubs/pdf/A3093.PDF . I thought it offered a
good comparison of carpenter vs. common ants.
http://www2.yardiac.com/long.asp?tgs=595570:20132264&cart_id=215436:840818566083&item_id=1551
is a page entitled "Carpenter Ant and Termite Killer". They claim:
Nothing contains wood eating pests better than Bayer Advanced Power
Force termite killer. If you have a problem Klor is your solution.
Also kills ants, cockroaches, crickets spiders, fleas and ticks!!
Kills Carpenter Ants and Termites
Kills 75 Outdoors Pests
Results Guaranteed
Kills on Contact
Protects Against Wood-damaging and Home-invading Insects
One Quart Treats up to 21,000 sq.ft. (approx. half the size of a
football field)
It is available for sale on this page. Note: I have no experience with
this product and this is not a personal recommendation.
In searching for remedies for carpenter ants, I came across "The Best
Control"
by Stephen Tvedten at http://www.thebestcontrol.com/toc/toc35.htm .
This book, which is also available for online purchase as a CD-ROM, is
described as:
""The Best Control" is a book written by Stephen Tveden. With more
than 30 years in the pest control business, Steve has researched and
applied the methods of safe pest management successfully in over 350
schools. The Best Control is easily searched and contains a
compilation of information, direction and advice currently being
utilized by pest control experts, schools and individuals all over
the country. It gives step-by-step directions for using common
household items and other safe methods of pest problem solving that
can be used to discourage and rid yourself of many of your worst
pests. This do-it-yourself approach can assist you to keep your
family, school, business and neighborhood pesticide free. The methods
and materials recommended in this book are referred to as "Pestisafes"
as opposed to "pesticides". Pestisafe ® is a registered trademark of
Stephen Tvedten. "
And lastly, one more interesting page on Carpenter Ant Control will be
found at http://www.carpenterants.com/ . Do click the link to see
potential damage they can cause! They also offer very good desriptions
of the problems and several other treatment solutions not offered on
the pages above including:
PRODUCT NAME: Drione Dust.
PRODUCT DESCRIPTION: White Powder, low odor, very
light and powdery. Drione is very safe to use. In fact, it is
labeled as flea powder to be applied directly on dogs and cats!
The great feature of Drione is that it floats like smoke when
applied. This means it will penetrate hard to reach spaces
and voids where carpenter ants are likely to nest.
And...
PRODUCT NAME: Hand Duster.
PRODUCT DESCRIPTION: Bellows type of duster which allows you to
apply dust to voids, under moldings and other areas where
carpenter ant nests are hiding.
And perhaps bestyet for your needs:
PRODUCT NAME: Carpenter Ant Gel.
PRODUCT DESCRIPTION: Yellow gel, syrupy or "loose" which comes in
a syringe for application. Unique product in how it works.
Basically, the main attractant, honeydew, is something
carpenterants will readily accept as it is necessary for
their young. When applied, the ants will find it quickly,
gather up as much as they can, bring it back to their nests
and distribute it to their young. The young will immediately
eat it and their excrement will then in turn kill the entire
nest! Within days, the nest will be dead.
TARGET PESTS: Carpenter ants, although other ants will eat
it as well and will be controlled.
WHERE TO USE IT: Inside or outside. Where ant activity is
highest. Apply it in the evening when carpenter ants get
busy for the night. This will allow for quick acceptance and
longer life of the product since extreme temperatures will
break it down. http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page560.html
I trust this has helped to identify the culprits and offer several
different methods of dealing with the problem. Best of luck reclaiming
your hot tub!
Regards,
-=clouseau=-
search strategies: ants eat redwood OR hot tub
carpenter ants
wood eating ant |
