What is the best way to eliminate and remove month old pet urine odor
from wood and concrete?

If these areas are indoors, as I suspect, I would give the places a
good brushing with hot, soapy water, wipe dry & then spray with
disinfectant.

There is a product called Nature's Miricle that is very effective. 
You should also shine a black light on the area to find any urine you
may have missed.

Hi I had the same problem with and I used this recipe, it works everytime!

   1. Mix one teaspoon of a neutral detergent (a mild non alkaline non
bleaching detergent) with a cup of luke-warm water.
   2. Blot.
   3. Mix one-third cup of white household vinegar with two-thirds cup of water.
   4. Blot.
   5. Mix one tablespoon of household ammonia with a half- cup of water.
   6. Blot.
   7. Mix one teaspoon of a neutral detergent (a mild non alkaline non
bleach detergent) with a cup of luke-warm water.
   8. Blot.
   9. Sponge with clean water.
  10. Blot again.

And here are some 'Sponsored Links' that have appeared at the top of my screen:

Oxy Odor & Stain Cleaner
Don't use enzymes - Use oxygen to
remove pet stains and odors forever
PAWS.Bio-OX.com 
 
 Pet Odor / Urine Removal
Urine odor, Dog, cat, skunk odor
Non-hazardous, 100% safe to use.
www.sorbtech.com 
 
 Purare. EcoQuest dealer
Clean air, natural cleaners and
personal care, energy bars & drinks
www.ecoquestintl.com/purare

Try spreading bicarbonate soda over the areas

Try a product called Urine-Off...it's only been on market for a year,
but it seems to be the only thing that works.  A flooring installer I
know uses it w/every flooring job...so good that it lifts 10 year old
stains out of an oak floor that had been peed on by a dog of the
previous owner.  He's been installing for 30+ years, knows every
product on the market, and is pentecostal about this one.

Hi, Gmahan

Great Comment but what an unimaginative name for the product!

I'm sure that they'd sell more if they had called it 'P*ss-Off!'
(Asterisk deliberate).

There is a product called OdoBan.  I normally buy it at Sam's Club.  I
used it at a rental place one time that we pulled the carpet out
of....saturated with cat urine.  We stripped the area to the sub
floor.  Spread bleach.  Let it dry.  Then spread the OdoBan.  Worked
wonders.  Have used it since on carpet and such and it works great.

Hi beeker16,

Use what professional Carpet and Upholstery Cleaning companies use:  

Microban
http://www.chemspecworld.com/product_detail.asp?par=10&product_id=391

In your local Yellow Pages, look up "Carpet and Upholstery Cleaning
Supplies" and call a couple listings to find it.  No special license
is required, however it is pricey.  When you purchase it, ask the
salesperson for instructions.  It may require more than one
application if you don't use enough the first time.

It works.  My company guaranteed pet odor removal and used this
product exclusively.

~~Cynthia

Will Microban work on furniture as well? I have an odor in my sofa
from pet urination that I am not sure how to get rid of.

I have just bought a new home that is a serious "fixer upper. The
previous owners were slobs to say the least. They had a very large dog
that was far from house trainined. I believe it had a goal to cover
every inch of the home with urine. I move in on August 1st and I an
very concirned with the urine problem. I have two cats. As anyone with
cats knows, this will become a larger problem if not delt with before
they get there. The Dog seems to have hiked on the walls as well as
squating on the floors. My downstairs is hardwood and shouldn't be
tough to clean but upstairs was carpet. I have removed all of the
carpet, padding, carpet tack strips and molding. All were saturated
pretty well with urine. Now that I can see the flooring, I can really
access the damage created by the dog. One room in particular has more
stain than not.

I have spoken to many, many contractors who run into this problem
often. The first rule is to NEVER NEVER NEVER use amonia. Since this
component is a main component of urine, it can atually cause animals
to try to cover the scent with their own... thinking its urine. They
told me that they use a respirator or an inexpensive mask that is used
for chemical use. This mask can be purchased from any Wal-Mart for
about 5 dollars. They put straight bleach in a spray bottle and apply
a heavy mist (not a stream) to the urine area. CHLORINE IS CAUSTIC AND
WILL HURT YOU. DO NOT INHALE. You should take care not to inhale
bleach as it is chlorine and is very very caustic and WILL hurt you by
contact or inhalation. It is also caustic to mix bleach with other
cleaning solvents. After the area is treated, you must vacate the
premasis for 24 hours. When you return apply backeing soda or a
bakeing soda based carpet deotorizer. Actually grind it into the spot.
This will work very well but I am not certain if this will actually
prevent pets from finding the spot again. This method was redundat per
all of the contractors that I spoke with, however a majority of them
said that they no longer use the bakeing soda. They now use the
product "Urine-Off" as mentioned by Gmahan. Some use it excluesively,
others still use the bleach and follow up with the Urine-Off.

You can find information about this product including vendors and
online ordering information at urine-off(dot)com. I have read up on it
and will be purchasing it tomorrow. I am going to adhear to the
information from my research and spray bleach on the surfaces first,
then follow up with a few treatments of Urine-Off a day or so after
that. I am putting a lot of faith in this product as it costs
$100.00US per gallon. Unfortunatly, my alternative is to spend
$1700.00US on new flooring for my entire second floor. My problem is
compounded by the fact that in this area of Texas, the codes don't
require subflooring. They use a 3/4inch tongue&groove wafer board for
flooring. It's nice in that it doesnt have uneven seams to be felt
benith carpets, but when wet... oh yea. Wafer board... partical
board... you can call it what you like... it doesn't mix with water.
So my challange is to eliminate the odors to the point that my cat's
don't mark the areas (they are both "fixed" so im already one foot to
the good), AND in such a way that it doesn't ruine the floors beyond
use. Since I'm reinstalling carpet, it will be a real life saver if
this works.

I'll repost next week and let you know how it goes.

AE

I have just bought a new home that is a serious "fixer upper. The
previous owners were slobs to say the least. They had a very large dog
that was far from house trained. I believe it had a goal to cover
every inch of the home with urine. I move in on August 1st and I am
very concerned with the urine problem. I have two cats. As anyone with
cats knows, this will become a larger problem if not dealt with before
they get there. The Dog seems to have hiked on the walls as well as
squatting on the floors. My downstairs is hardwood and shouldn't be
tough to clean but upstairs was carpet. I have removed all of the
carpet, padding, carpet tack strips and molding. All were saturated
pretty well with urine. Now that I can see the flooring, I can really
access the damage created by the dog. One room in particular has more
stain than not.

I have spoken to many, many contractors who run into this problem
often. The first rule is to NEVER, NEVER, NEVER use ammonia. Since
this component is a main component of urine, it can actually cause
animals to try to cover the scent with their own... thinking its
urine. They told me that they use a respirator or an inexpensive mask
that is used for chemical use. This mask can be purchased from any
Wal-Mart for about 5 dollars. They put straight bleach in a spray
bottle and apply a heavy mist (not a stream) to the urine area.
CHLORINE IS CAUSTIC AND WILL HURT YOU. DO NOT INHALE. You should take
care not to inhale bleach as it is chlorine and is very, very caustic
and WILL hurt you by contact or inhalation. It is also caustic to mix
bleach with other cleaning solvents. After the area is treated, you
must vacate the premises for 24 hours. When you return apply baking
soda or a baking soda based carpet deodorizer. Actually grind it into
the spot. This will work very well but I am not certain if this will
actually prevent pets from finding the spot again. This method was
redundant per all of the contractors that I spoke with, however a
majority of them said that they no longer use the baking soda. They
now use the product "Urine-Off" as mentioned by Gmahan. Some use it
exclusively; others still use the bleach and follow up with the
Urine-Off.

You can find information about this product including vendors and
online ordering information at urine-off(dot)com. I have read up on it
and will be purchasing it tomorrow. I am going to adhere to the
information from my research and spray bleach on the surfaces first,
then follow up with a few treatments of Urine-Off a day or so after
that. I am putting a lot of faith in this product as it costs
$100.00US per gallon. Unfortunately, my alternative is to spend
$1700.00US on new flooring for my entire second floor. My problem is
compounded by the fact that in this area of Texas, the codes don't
require sub flooring. They use a 3/4inch tongue & groove wafer board
for flooring. It's nice in that it doesn?t have uneven seams to be
felt beneath carpets, but when wet... oh yea. Wafer board... particle
board... you can call it what you like... it doesn't mix with water.
So my challenge is to eliminate the odors to the point that my cat's
don't mark the areas (they are both "fixed" so I?m already one foot to
the good), AND in such a way that it doesn't ruin the floors beyond
use. Since I'm reinstalling carpet, it will be a real life saver if
this works.

I'll repost next week and let you know how it goes.

AE

Sorry about the double post. It seems to have posted the pre-edited version. =(