Greetings Kaci2,
Only a plant professional could really tell you what's up with the
lily pads but I did find some information that may assist you. If you
find it "answer worthy" let me know and I'll be happy to post my
research as an answer.
"If all the pads on your waterlily are yellowing no matter what you do
and the bloom is fading away before it can even get to the surface you
may have a dirty rotten scoundrel at work on your waterlily. Crown Rot
is not a pretty thing. Hold your nose with one hand and pinch the
tuber with the other because if it is mushy - it is smelly too! And if
this is the case you have a murderer on your hands who will not stop
at only one plant. Crown Rot is highly contagious and any exposed
waterlily should be mercifully thrown out in the trash to prevent
further spread of this disease."
http://www.ponddoc.com/WhatsUpDoc/Plants/Wilting.htm
"Crown rot and water lily rot are two different forms of lily rot. I
always encourage when breaking up the nymphaea rhizomes in the spring
and when the water is still somewhat cold, to cut the rhizome with a
sharp knife, not just break them apart. This leaves a clean cut where
as breaking them apart leaves ragged edges which, in turn, can
encourage the rot as the ragged and straggly edges rot and die away.
Not always, of course, but it can. To help control this, and if one
cannot wait till the water gets into the 50's + degrees, I always
encourage the use of powdered charcoal rubbed into the cut or broken
parts.
"Now, if you are afraid of crown rot, which is a highly contagious
disease and can go through a pool of lilies like wildfire, then I
encourage the use of 'Subdue 2 E' as a crown rot preventative. When
receiving new plants and if there is any doubt at all, then treat as
1 oz to a 100 gallons of water. Remove all mature leaves, root
fragments and make a clean cut on the butt end of the rhizome. Float
rhizomes for four days. Drain and rinse rhizomes, then pot up.
One oz. to 100 gallons figures out to be 1 drop to a gallon."
http://www.tawgs.org/Articles/LilyPad040100.html
"Yellowing Lilies: If the crown is planted too deep, the leaves will
first yellow and then turn black and die. The rhizome will then rot
away. Don't mistake the yellowing of an occasional leaf as a problem.
Remember each lily leaf only lasts a few weeks, then it dies.
Yellowing Lilies: Lack of sunlight will cause yellow leaves. Lilies
need a minimum of 6 hours of sunlight a day...Use plant fertilizer
tablets that are labeled for water plants. Use these once a month."
http://www.bonniesplants.com/lilies_hardy/hardy_water_lily.htm
Dealing with Water Lily Rot
"To remove the disease, empty the pool, remove all silt, and use a
bottle of bleach to rinse every surface- This reliably clears the pool
of infection. When introducing new plants, a spoon of bleach, in a
bucket of water should 'clean up' new plant introductions. It is
possible to treat a pool with a particular treatment, however the
doses are lethal to fish and insects, this is best done in a water
garden for plants only. There is a slow release method, involving
impaling clay 'pills' close to the roots which can be considered
reliable as an ongoing deterrent to the disease."
http://www.members.aol.com/abdavisnc/swgrot.html
"As temperatures drop most water plants begin browning out and losing leaves."
http://www.ponddoc.com/WhatsUpDoc/Seasonal/PreparePlunge.htm
[If you had a cold snap after the beginning of warm weather, it may be
that the cold weather browned the leaves. If you smell no noxious
odor, perhaps cold is the culprit.]
Best regards,
journalist-ga
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