I am planning to move from dial-up to broadband in my home and would
like some advice on how to proceed.  I am somewhat familiar with
computing but have never dealt with broadband issues or with wireless
networking.  I am looking for some step-by-step input on the following
items:

1.  I am going the DSL route vs. cable.  DSL is much more suited to my
situation.  If there are any dramatic reasons why cable would be far
superior to DSL please let me know, although logistically cable would
much more difficult.  I have already checked with my local phone
carrier (Verizon) and they have confirmed that DSL is available on one
of my current phone lines (at an UL rate of 128K and a DL rate of
768K);

2.  Advice on a firewall.  I have tried using Zonealarm on one of my
laptops and I have been confused as to which programs I should allow
to have access to the internet.  Any advice on alternative software? 
Is Zonealarm really the best firewall?  If so, what is the best way to
learn to use it correctly (i.e. which programs should I allow to have
access to the internet?)

3.  Hardware concerns.  I have the following PC's I would like to link
to the wireless network:

--A desktop with an ethernet port (running XP); 

--a laptop with built-in 10/100 Ethernet and integrated Wireless LAN
802.11a/b connections (NEC Versa Litepad running XP);

--another notebook running XP with no current wireless capacity.

--an older desktop running Windows 98.  If setting up this pc to
access the network is difficult (given the age of the machine and
operating system), I would consider skipping it.

Please recommend hardware needed to set set up the wireless network. 
I would also like a brief explanation as to the difficulty of setting
up the system as well as suggestions on where to buy the equipment if
available.

4.  Finally, any advice on setup/maintenance of the system.  Are there
other things (either software or hardware) that I need to buy that I
have not listed here?  Is a firewall a necessity?  What are the
advantages/disadvantages of using my current landline RBOC (Verizon)
vs. other 3rd party DSL providers?  Do different providers mean
different service levels/UL-DL speeds/prices?  If so, what other
3rd-party providers would you suggest and why (this is for the near
Boston suburbs...area code 781).

Thanks...

---

Request for Question Clarification by aht-ga on 02 Jan 2004 13:40 PST

colan-ga:

I am working on an Answer for you, but I have a couple of
clarification requests that I hope you can reply to.

1. Do you currently have cable television service to your home? If
not, is your home pre-wired for cable television, including the cable
company's cable to the home?

2. How densely populated is your neighbourhood? How far away are your
neighbours? What type of home do you have (ex. single story
bungalow/rancher, two-bedroom condo unit in a 20 storey building, that
sort of description)?

3. Do you use your home Internet connection for work purposes as well
as personal use? If so, please describe how you use it for work
purposes.

Thanks,

aht-ga
Google Answers Researcher

---

Clarification of Question by colan-ga on 02 Jan 2004 14:45 PST

aht-ga:

1.  I do not currently have cable service to my home.  When we moved
in cable was not available to our neighborhood.  I THINK it is now
available, but I am not sure.  I do not think the home is pre-wired
for cable (thus my comments that I believe DSL is more realistic from
a logistical standpoint);  I THINK the local cable service is Comcast,
but I am not certain.  Note that I currently get my video feed via
satelite so if I did go cable it would be for data access only.

2.  Neighborhood is relatively sparse...4 homes on our street all on a
couple of acres of land apiece.  I do not know if any of our neighbors
currently have cable data or video access. We are across the street
from an elementary school (I do not know where their broadband comes
from).  The nearest large neighborhood is about a quarter of a mile
away and is relatively dense (80-100 homes on 1/2 acre plots.  My home
is a 2 story single family home (actually 3 stories since one of the
computers is in the attic--the older one with the Windows 98 operating
system.)

3.  I do use the computer somewhat for work, but it is generally word
processing and light spreadsheet work.  I use a couple of web services
that would benefit from broadband access for work currently.  If/when
I have broadband available, I might increase the amount of
work-oriented tasks I do on the computer.


Finally, since originally posting I did some further detective work
and it looks like Covad and Earthlink (and perhaps others) also
provide DSL service.  I assume that the 3rd party companies simply use
the Verizon backbone to provide the service, but I am no expert here. 
Clearly, there are various pricing plans and features of the different
products, and I would appreciate any guidance you could give (assuming
you convince me that DSL makes more sense than cable) on what plan or
features would be useful.

Thanks...

---

Clarification of Question by colan-ga on 02 Jan 2004 15:02 PST

One further clarification...I checked and Comcast IS apparently
available to my home (if I can believe the website).  The price for
data only seems very high ($20 per month MORE than DSL).

colan-ga:

Thank you for your request for advice on upgrading from dial-up to
broadband, and on deploying a wireless network in your home. I hope
that you find the following information of use.

I will arrange this Answer in line with the points in your Question:

1. Choice of broadband technology - DSL vs. cable
	a. technical advantages of each
	b. advice on providers
2. Firewall advice
3. Hardware considerations
4. Setup/maintenance advice

===================================

1. Choosing a Broadband Solution
--------------------------------

You have already made the easiest decision, namely to upgrade from
dial-up to broadband. However, as you already sense, the choice of a
broadband provider is a difficult one.

The leading technologies for residential broadband service are digital
subscriber lines (DSL) and data-over-cable service (we'll just call it
cable here), DSL being delivered using a new or existing telephone
line and cable being delivered over a new or existing cable TV line.
The availability of each depends solely on the network infrastructure
of the local telephone company and local cable company. Reasons why
either service may not be available range from a lack of either
telephone or cable service to the residence at all, all the way to a
lack of data service to the service providers local facility (the
'central office' for the telephone company, the segment substation for
cable).

For your reference, other technologies available in some parts of the
world include fibre-optic cabling to the home, wireless, and
satellite.

Choosing between DSL and cable comes down to a few parameters that are
specific to your situation, which I shall now discuss.

DISTANCE FROM SERVICE PROVIDER FACILITY

This affects DSL more than cable, and affects each differently. For
DSL, the nature of the technology means that, the further away you are
from the central office (CO) or remote terminal (RT, used in newer
suburban developments), the lower the bandwidth that will be available
to you. Think of this as being similar to water pressure from a city
main; the farther you are from the source, the lower the pressure you
receive. The advantage of DSL is that you are the only user of your
DSL line. So, continuing on the water pressure analogy, you will get
whatever pressure that it is possible to deliver down that pipe, there
won't be anyone tapping off pressure midway down the line.

For cable, the reverse is true. The actual bandwidth available to you
is less dependent on any distance parameter, but more dependent on the
number of other cable Internet users there are on the same segment as
you. Here is where distance does play a role; in some suburban areas,
and for most multi-dwelling buildings, there are a lot of cable
customers all hanging off the same segment/loop of cable. If a large
number of them are also subscribed to cable Internet, then they all
must share the total available bandwidth. At peak times (such as after
school, when all the kids in the area go home and start downloading
MP3's, sending instant messages, and playing online games), this can
slow the cable Internet experience down to a crawl, just like a busy
freeway at rush hour. Given your description of your neighbourhood,
Comcast may have simply extended the segment serving that new
development over to your area, so you potentially would be sharing
your service with 100 other families.

EASE OF OBTAINING SERVICE

You've mentioned that you currently have satellite TV, and that cable
service was not available in your area when you first moved in. That
most likely means that Comcast would need to run cable to your home in
order to provide the service, something that they most likely would
charge you for. If their cable is simply strung along poles running
down your street, then at least the installation would be simple to
get to the outside of your home; if there are no poles on your street,
then that means their cable is running underground, and would require
a trench be dug on your property to get to your home. The online check
simply indicates if your street address is 'passed' by a cable run, it
unfortunately does not indicate if the cable runs right to your house
already.

In addition to this, you would be looking at the need to install at
least one cable jack in the house to accommodate the data service.
Again, additional cost.

Since Verizon says that they can deliver 128kbps up/728 kbps down
service, that already implies that you are at some distance from their
CO. They would have offered you 128/1.5M service if you were within
12,000 ft (as the telephone line crawls) of their location. This isn't
the whole story, though. Depending on the quality and complexity of
the telephone wiring in your house, you may or may not be able to get
anywhere close to the 128/728 service level. For example, if you have
many extensions in the house, and if you go with the self-install kit,
you will need to install a device called a Z-filter on each of those
extensions. If there is any marginal wiring in the house, or of one of
the Z-filters is not within its performance specification, then the
DSL modem will automatically lower its performance to compensate for
the interference. Since you mention that you have more than one phone
line, you should also note that the Z-filters normally supplied by
most DSL service providers filter only the middle pins, or 'Line 1',
of a standard two-line phone jack. Therefore, there may be a need to
do some simple rewiring depending on how your phone lines are hooked
up.

AVAILABLE PROVIDERS

When it comes to DSL, the thing to note is that regardless of who your
Internet Service Provider is, the actual physical connection between
your home and the Internet Service Provider belongs to your local
telephone company. In this case, Verizon. Beyond the phone line itself
and the voice/data splitter in the phone company's facility, there is
also a data network (ATM, or asynchronous transfer mode network)
between that facility and the actual connection to the Internet. That
connection can be Verizon's, or a 3rd party's, and it is that
connection that actually enables your Internet service (as well as
e-mail, etc.).

Since this is the first time that you are getting DSL service to your
home, the majority of issues that can arise will have to do with the
quality of that physical connection. So, the general advice I would
give anyone in your situation is to start with the local phone company
as the service provider, ensure that DSL can be successfully delivered
over your phone line, then shop around around for other service
providers to take over the Internet service part.

For cable, the situation is similar; Comcast will always be the party
responsible for the physical connection, and there may or may not be a
choice available to you for a 3rd party to 'own' the connection
between the Comcast network and the Internet.

RECOMMENDATION

In your situation, since you do not already have cable service in your
home, the DSL option is basically the only option to consider. Even if
the Comcast service may provide superior peak bandwidths, it is highly
likely that the service will be shared with many other parties,
possibly even the elementary school across the street. The additional
cost per month, along with the installation costs, will make the cable
option unaffordable.

For your initial DSL connection, stick with Verizon so that there is
only one 'throat to choke' if tweaking is needed to get your
connection working optimally. Then, after your service is stable, you
can consider going with a different service provider based purely on
the economics of their offers.

OTHER POINTS TO CONSIDER

As I previously mentioned, the DSL experience will depend greatly on
the quality of the telephone wiring in your home. Therefore, when you
first start installing the service using their self-install kit, I
highly recommend that you start by unplugging every telephone that is
connected to that particular phone line. That will reduce the
possibility of a bad phone causing noise on the line and disrupting
the DSL connection. Once you have established a connection, go to:

http://bos.speakeasy.net

(if not available, go to http://www.dslreports.com/stest and select a
different server)

and run the Bandwidth Speed Test that you will find there. If
possible, run the test several times over a reasonable period of time,
then record the average results for later comparison. Install the
Z-filters and plug the phones back in. After you are done, run the
speed test again. If the results are noticeably different from the
original results, there is a possibility that there is either a bad
Z-filter, or a bad phone. The best way to trace this is to unplug a
phone, and retest; repeat until the bad phone is found.

An alternative to consider is to dedicate a single phone jack as the
one through which the DSL service will be delivered, and to have a
knowledgeable person do some simple rewiring in the junction box where
all of the phone lines in the house connect to the telephone company's
lines. The line for the designated phone jack gets connected directly
to the line with the DSL service. All other phone jacks that need to
connect to that line must be connected first to a different type of
filter referred to as a POTS splitter, and the splitter is in turn
connected to the phone line. If this is something you wish to learn
more about, please ask for clarification and I will provide it.

A final point to consider is the situation where you may have an alarm
system in the house that uses the phone line to connect to a
monitoring service. If the line that the alarm system uses is the same
line that the DSL will be delivered over, then it is necessary to
install a filter for the alarm's built-in analog modem as well. Since
many alarm systems are designed so that they 'take over' the phone
line when tripped, this actually entails designating a phone jack as
the DSL jack as mentioned above, and installing the POTS splitter. It
sounds more difficult than it actually is, the only complication is
that many alarm monitoring companies will insist that their technician
be called out (and paid) to do this in order to maintain their
monitoring service's integrity. In my own home, I did this myself, but
I am also highly experienced in working with electronics and telephone
systems.

-----------------------------

For more information on this:

DSL:

xDSL- Webopedia.com
http://www.webopedia.com/TERM/x/xDSL.html

How DSL Works - Verizon Online
http://www22.verizon.com/forhomedsl/channels/dsl/how+dsl+works.asp

How does DSL Work? - Bolt Home Systems
http://www.bolthomesystems.com/networking/dsl_work.htm

DSL FAQ - Broadband Reports
http://www.dslreports.com/faq/faq


CABLE:

DOCSIS - Webopedia.com
http://www.webopedia.com/TERM/D/DOCSIS.html

TechTV: The Path to Cable Internet
http://www.techtv.com/screensavers/broadband/story/0,24330,3359373,00.html

Cable Modems and Wiring Issues - Broadband Reports
http://www.dslreports.com/faq/cabletech


GENERAL:

How Internet Infrastructure Works - Howstuffworks.com
http://computer.howstuffworks.com/internet-infrastructure.htm

=============================


2. Firewall Advice
------------------

I am glad that you have already experimented with using a firewall
program on one of your laptops, as that is one of the most important
security steps you can take. The free version of Zone Alarm is
actually what I personally use, and is the most user friendly of all
of the firewall programs available. The basic rule to follow with Zone
Alarm is, if when you start up a program, you receive a prompt asking
if you will permit it to access either the local network or the
Internet, then you are usually safe in saying Yes (and optionally
checking the box to have ZA remember your instructions for the next
time you start up the service). If, however, you receive a request
when you have not started up a program, then you should be somewhat
concerned. Remember that services such as Windows Update or many
anti-virus programs run in the background, and occasionally will
access the Internet to check for updates using the name 'Services And
Controller App'. However, if you do not recognize the name of the
program, simply say 'No', but do not check the checkbox. If later on
you find that something that should be working, isn't, then chances
are it is because it cannot access the Internet, and you will know
what program that last cryptic name belongs to.

Since you are now considering deploying a home network, then you will
be gaining an additional layer of protection through the hardware
firewall that will be built into the DSL gateway router that I will
talk to in greater detail in the next section.

Even with the hardware firewall in place, you should still deploy the
free version of Zone Alarm on your other computers. This is to provide
some protection against the threat of a virus or worm somehow getting
into one of your computers (through, for example, an e-mail
attachment), and infecting the other PCs in your house.
 
I will discuss the hardware firewall in the following sections.
Ultimately, the best advice I can give you here is to learn more about
what the firewall does for you. The best places to start are;

How Firewalls Work - Howstuffworks.com
http://www.howstuffworks.com/firewall.htm

Gibson Research Corp - ShieldsUP!
http://www.grc.com/default.htm (then scroll down to 'ShieldsUP!')

---------------------------
For more information on this:

ZoneAlarm free download
http://www.zonelabs.com/store/content/company/products/znalm/freeDownload.jsp?lid=zadb_zadown

Agnitum Outpost Firewall - free version
http://www.agnitum.com/download/outpost1.html

=============================

3. Wireless Home Networking
---------------------------

Given your description of your home, a wireless network is indeed the
best option for you. Your level of success in deploying this network
will depend on several factors, such as the type of construction
(wood, brick, metal), the layout, and the location chosen for the
wireless base station.

You described your home as a two-storey w/attic single family
dwelling. You also mentioned that one PC (the W98 one) is in the
attic. Naturally, the two laptops are mobile, and the desktop running
XP is mostly likely your 'main' PC and is most likely located in a den
or spare bedroom. If not, simply modify my advice to suit.

Your first consideration will be in choosing a wireless-enabled DSL
router. Verizon will be providing you with a DSL modem. The DSL router
will be able to emulate a PC, and work with the DSL modem to initiate
and maintain the DSL connection regardless of the state of the PCs in
the house. That way, you do not need to remember to leave any of the
PCs turned on just so that the others can continue to access the
Internet.

My high level recommendation for this is to stick with a single brand
for any equipment you need to purchase. With the exception of the
Litepad, none of the other PCs have wireless equipment. I would
recommend that the DSL router be located by the desktop PC, so that
you can simply connect that PC to the router using an Ethernet cable
and save some money.

For the other PCs (the other laptop, and the attic machine), you will
need to buy wireless adapters at the same time as you buy the wireless
DSL router. If the laptop has a free PCMCIA slot, then you will need
to buy a PCMCIA wireless adapter. For the W98 machine, you can
purchase either a PCI wireless adapter that is installed in a free PCI
slot inside the PC, or if the machine has a free USB port, you can go
with a USB wireless adapter instead.

The standard that I will recommend you go with right now is the
802.11b standard, better known by the Wi-Fi mark. Note that 802.11b
does not equal Wi-Fi. Wi-Fi is the mark used to indicate that a
wireless device using the 802.11b standard has been tested by the
Wi-Fi Alliance, an industry consortium focused on ensuring
compatibility between equipment. The reason I recommend this standard,
versus the newer 802.11g standard, is two-fold. First, your Litepad is
already equipped with an 802.11a/b adapter, so using it with an
802.11g base station would force the base station to implement it's
backward compatibility capabilities. For some units, this can reduce
the overall performance of the unit. The second reason is that the
main reason in putting this home network in place is to share the
Internet connection; since the Internet connection itself will have at
most 768kbps download speed, the maximum 11Mbps/minimum 1Mbps
throughput of 802.11b is more than adequate. The price points for
802.11b equipment has also dropped to rediculously low levels (I half
expect to see 802.11b adapters being distributed in cereal boxes
soon). However, if you come across a great deal on 802.11g equipment,
then go right ahead and buy it instead, as the 802.11g standard
requires that 802.11g equipment be backward compatible with 802.11b
equipment.

You can buy Wi-Fi equipment at most major home electronics stores such
as Best Buy or Circuit City. As for brands, I am going to play it safe
and recommend the acknowledged leader in home networking equipment,
Linksys.

For the wireless DSL router, I recommend the Linksys W11S4PC11, a kit
that contains a Linksys BEFW11S4 wireless 4-port broadband router and
a PCMCIA adapter for the other laptop. For the W98 PC, look for either
the WUSB11 USB adapter, or the WMP11 PCI adapter. If you have a
choice, go for the USB unit. Since the computer is located in the
attic, it will have the most difficult time with acquiring and
maintaining the wireless connection. With the USB unit, you will have
the flexibility to move the adapter around to try to optimize the
signal, whereas the options with the PCI version are more limited.

I also suggest picking up an Ethernet cable to go between the desktop
PC and the DSL router.

You can find all of these at BestBuy.com:

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?id=cat01028&type=category
(Linksys equipment starts on page 3 of the search results)

Setting up the wireless network should be relatively simple, if you
follow these steps:

1. Buy the wireless equipment before you attempt to install your DSL connection. 

2. Follow the Verizon instructions in the self-install kit to set up
the DSL connection on your desktop PC (note that the software you
install is temporary, you will be uninstalling it after the router has
been installed).

3. After confirming that you are able to use the DSL connection (and
checking out your speed using the links I provided in section 1), shut
down your computer.

4. Unpack and set up the Linksys router, following the instructions in
its Quick Start guide to hook it up between your PC and the DSL modem.

5. After following the Quick Start instructions for a PPPoE type of
DSL connection, you should be able to surf the Web from the desktop
PC. If you have not already done so, CHANGE THE ADMIN PASSWORD FOR THE
ROUTER.

6. Again following the Linksys Quick Start instructions, install the
Linksys PCMCIA adapter in the other laptop. NOTE: At this point, you
need to decide on a 'name' for your home network, to replace the
default 'linksys' SSID. I suggest you choose something that is NOT
easily identifiable to you or your home, yet is easy for you to
remember as you will need to type it a few more times before we are
done here. Keep it under eight characters (example: GHOST324). You
will need to configure this on the router from the desktop PC, and
configure it on the laptop through the PCMCIA adapter's setup wizard.

7. At this point, you will also need to set up the WEP key for
security. Start with a 64-bit key, as that is the only level supported
by the actual 802.11b standard. This will help reduce the possibility
of problems cropping up with the Litepad later. To create the key, you
can use the wizard's 'passphrase' option (where you type in a word,
and it uses it to create the key). While that will work for any of the
Linksys branded equipment, it will not work for the NEC's own adapter.
For that computer, you will need to write down the key that is
generated by the wizard (the easiest one to see is the one for the
Linksys router itself), and manually key it in for the NEC. On the XP
machines, XP's own wireless user interface will be the preferred
interface. FOr the W98 machine, you will need to use the Linksys
software that comes with the wireless adapter.

8. Speaking of the W98 machine, this is the one that may require the
most experimentation. Therefore, you may want to leave it uninstalled
for the first week, while you sort out any bugs with the DSL
connection and the wireless connection for the laptops. Only after you
are confident that the DSL connection and the wireless network are
working, should you install the wireless adapter on the W98 machine.

The Linksys router uses a technique known as Network Address
Translation to allow your multiple PCs, each assigned a local IP
address, to all use the single Internet connection (and the single IP
address assigned by Verizon's dynamic IP server). This NAT technique
also creates an effective firewall against Internet based threats, as
the router will prevent any unsolicited traffic from reaching your
PCs. However, this technique may also cause some problems for any
instant messaging or file-sharing programs used on the PCs. There are
instructions in the Linksys user guide for configuring the router to
allow these types of software to be used safely.

------------------------

For more information on this:

Linksys: Education
http://www.linksys.com/edu/

Microsoft Broadband Networking Hardware - Wireless 802.11b
http://www.microsoft.com/hardware/broadbandnetworking/03_choose.aspx?class=WirelessB

ExtremeTech.com : Go Wireless Part II:Unwiring It Up
http://www.extremetech.com/article2/0,3973,1335949,00.asp

==================================

4. Setup/maintenance advice
---------------------------

Even after you have successfully set up your wireless home network,
you will want to periodically check up on it to make sure you are
still in control. The Linksys router maintains a log showing which
machines have connected to it through both the wired ports and the
wireless network. If you do not recognize a machine, then your
security has been compromised. The easiest way to fix this is to
change the WEP key. You may want to do this periodically anyway, as a
good security practice.

The performance of the wireless network will depend greatly on sources
of radio interference in and around your home. Wireless networks
operate in the same frequency range, 2.4 GHz, as some cordless phones
and most microwave ovens. It is therefore good practice to either not
use 2.4GHz phones, or at least move their base stations away from the
wireless router. Try to visualize a straight line between the wireless
router and the other wireless computers, and see if you can find any
other sources of interference that would impact the connection (such
as concrete walls with rebar, metal heating ducts, refrigerators,
etc.)

If you find that your wireless signal strength is weak in areas of the
house where you want to use the laptops (such as a sundeck), try
moving the base station so that it is clear of any immediate
obstructions. If possible, place it on top of a wooden bookshelf so
that its antenna is well above your PC monitor.

Finally, once your DSL connection is working, remember to keep an eye
out for any good 3rd party ISP deals. While you will incur some brief
headaches returning the Verizon equipment and reinstalling the new
equipment provided by the new ISP, the monthly cost savings may well
justify the pain.

---------------------------

I hope that you have found this Answer to be helpful. Please let me
know if you would like any clarifications, using the Request
Clarification button.

Thanks, and good luck!

aht-ga
Google Answers Researcher

---

Request for Answer Clarification by colan-ga on 03 Jan 2004 10:07 PST

aht-ga:

Will the set-up as you have described allow me to print remotely by
using the wireless network and a printer hooked up to the base unit?

---

Clarification of Answer by aht-ga on 03 Jan 2004 11:18 PST

There are several ways to print remotely with this setup.

The base station I suggested, the Linksys BEFW11S4, does not have
built-in support for a 'print server'. If you are looking for a print
server function, then your options become a lot more limited. It
depends a lot on your printer, actually, as most of the routers with
print server support can only support a parallel port printer.

If your printer is a USB printer, then two second-tier manufacturers,
SMC and NetGear, each make a wireless DSL router with USB printer
support. Please note, though, that when these manufacturers claim USB
printer support, what they really mean is that you get a driver that
you install on each of your computers that allows them to create a
virtual USB port with a 'tunnel' through the network to their printer
server. When it works, it works well. When it doesn't work, it's a
nightmare to troubleshoot. As well, all of these units operate with
the newer 802.11g standard, which means that they cost more than a
802.11b solution even if you look past the additional cost for the
print server capability.

The method I usually recommend, and the method that most likely
matches your current situation, is for the printer to remain directly
connected to the desktop PC running XP, and for that printer to be
shared in the local network to all of the other machines. This
requires that you set up the "Client for Microsoft Networks" on each
of the computers, and turn on "File and Printer Sharing". The downside
to this is that the desktop PC must be on whenever someone needs to
print. If you usually leave the desktop PC on anyway, that isn't an
issue. If not, then it will be necessary to investigate alternatives
to the base station I originally recommended.

Regards,

aht-ga
Google Answers Researcher

---

Request for Answer Clarification by colan-ga on 03 Jan 2004 14:23 PST

aht:

Thanks for the point on the printers.  Leaving the base unit on should
not be a problem.  When I get to that point in the setup I may come
back and ask for more details just in case I don't get it right.

Again, thanks.

---

Clarification of Answer by aht-ga on 03 Jan 2004 16:04 PST

No problem. If you are no longer able to request a clarification at
that time (I am not certain, but I believe there is a time limit to
how long the clarification button remains active), post another
Question with my name in the subject so that I pick up on it.

Good luck,

aht-ga
Google Answers Researcher

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Request for Answer Clarification by colan-ga on 17 Jan 2004 13:04 PST

aht-ga:

I am in the midst of setting things up.  

Under your answer #3 Part 5., you say "After following the Quick Start
instructions for a PPPoE type of DSL connection, you should be able to
surf the Web from the desktop PC. If you have not already done so,
CHANGE THE ADMIN PASSWORD FOR THE ROUTER."

Question:  How do I change the ADMIN password for the router?

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Request for Answer Clarification by colan-ga on 17 Jan 2004 13:09 PST

One more question:

Could you please further explain the WEP security key process.  I am
not exactly sure how to do this on the router or the other machines. 
What software to I use to set the Key?

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Clarification of Answer by aht-ga on 17 Jan 2004 22:20 PST

colan-ga:

I'm glad to hear that you've started to set up your wireless network!

To answer your clarification requests:

ADMIN PASSWORD
--------------

Assuming you purchased the Linksys BEFW11S4 I suggested, the admin
password is changed by accessing the router's configuration pages, and
selecting the 'Password' tab. The instructions on how to do this can
be found on pages 21-26 of the User Guide found at:

ftp://ftp.linksys.com/pdf/befw11s4_v4_ug.pdf

(this should be the same as the paper version you received with the router)


WEP SECURITY SETUP
------------------

Again, assuming you purchased the Linksys router, please read the
following Linksys support page a couple of times to familiarize
yourself with the location of the various pages you need to access,
then please do the following:

read
http://www.linksys.com/support/top10faqs/BEFw11s4/Setting%20up%20and%20troubleshooting%20WEP%20encryption%20on%20a%20BEFW11S4.asp

and read
http://www.linksys.com/Products/befw11s4_sec_add.pdf

then
1. First, log into your router (per the instructions in the Linksys
page) and go to the WEP Key Setting window;

2. Because you have a mixed environment (ie. some computers using XP,
some using the Linksys client software to control the wireless
adapter), you must MANUALLY enter the WEP key. Because of the length
of the WEP key, and given the low probability of a hacker driving up
to your house and sitting there for a few hours to hack your network
without you noticing him or her, I suggest you use a 64-bit key. As
this key is entered using hexadecimal notation, and a 64-bit key
consists of 10 hexadecimal characters, I suggest you use something
that you can easily remember, but that is not easily associated with
you or your house. One such thing would be something similar to the
phone number of a friend, preferably one located in a different area
code from you (example, '8002255288' if your friend happens to be
AT&T).

3. After you have picked your WEP key (ie., your friend's phone
number) select the 64-bit key option in the router, and enter the key
in the field for the key and apply the changes.

4. In the computers with a wireless adapter (such as the NEC laptop
running XP), you also need to set the WEP key. For the XP laptop, you
set this by following the instructions on pages 2-3 of the second
Linksys document I mentioned above,
http://www.linksys.com/Products/befw11s4_sec_add.pdf , taking note of
the fact that I am telling you to use a 64-bit key (ie. 10 characters)
instead of the 26-character approach mentioned in the document. The
reason for this is to try to maximize the likelihood that the Wi-Fi
adapter built into the NEC will work with the Linksys; not all
manufacturers' products play well together at the 128-bit setting
(aside: 128-bit = 104 bit + 24 bits of admin overhead).

5. For the non-XP computer, you would set up the WEP key using the
Linksys client software, either during the setup wizard (which you can
re-run even if you have already installed the software previously), or
by access the client software directly per the following:

http://kb.linksys.com/cgi-bin/om_isapi.dll?infobase=linksysrev.nfo&record={4AB}&softpage=IKW_ENU_JDocView

 Again, please remember that you are not using a passphrase, you are
entering the WEP key directly.


Additional Clarifications
-------------------------

I am happy to field additional clarifications that you may require.
However, I must inform you that I will be offline from January 19th
until about January 24th, and therefore will not be able to respond to
any further requests until then. If you run into a situation where you
are unsure how to proceed, first consider visiting the Linksys support
site at:

http://www.linksys.com/support/default.asp

and click on the Knowledge Base link. Here, you will find the answers
to frequently asked questions about any of the Linksys equipment
(similar to the links I've provided above). While it is not a
substitute for asking a direct question of an experienced person, it's
probably the next best thing.

As well, if all else fails, you may consider posting a question to
Google Answers, where another Researcher should be able to help you.
If you do this, please reference this question by including the
following link in your Question, so that the Researcher can be fully
aware of your situation:

http://answers.google.com/answers/threadview?id=292365

Please let me know how this goes, and my apologies for the inconvenience!

Regards,

aht-ga
Google Answers Researcher

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Request for Answer Clarification by colan-ga on 03 Apr 2004 16:41 PST

aht:

In your instructions on sharing a printer with the network, you state "This
requires that you set up the "Client for Microsoft Networks" on each
of the computers, and turn on "File and Printer Sharing".

One clarification...how do I set up the "client for microsoft networks?"

I know it has been a long time and if you want me to pay some more
after all this time, please let me know.

Thanks...

Cole

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Clarification of Answer by aht-ga on 03 Apr 2004 16:56 PST

Hello again, colan-ga! I hope all has been well for you since we last
corresponded. Setting up the client (and printer sharing) is
relatively straightforward, here are some links that will help you.

To set up the Client for Microsoft Networks in Windows 98, please
follow the instructions here:

http://www.ae.utexas.edu/lrc/ms_client.html

For Windows XP, the client is usually installed already by default. If
not, then follow this:

http://helpdesk.uvic.ca/hownote/2001/ht2001041.html

For File and Printer Sharing in XP:

http://helpdesk.uvic.ca/hownote/2001/ht2001042.html

And for Windows 98:

http://helpdesk.uvic.ca/hownote/1999/ht99032.html


That should take care of things for you. 

Regards,

aht-ga
Google Answers Researcher

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Request for Answer Clarification by colan-ga on 04 Apr 2004 14:30 PDT

aht:

RE printing on a network...under LAN properties on the main computer
with the printer attached, I have client for MS networks checked as
well as file and printer sharing for MS networks.

However...How do I actually print from the other computer?  How do I
know it is going to the network printer?

Sorry for the incredibly naive questions...thanks...

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Request for Answer Clarification by colan-ga on 04 Apr 2004 14:57 PDT

O.K.

Now I've really screwed something up.

While trying to set up the printers...I now cannot access the internet
via the wireless (laptop) computer.  The wireless connection still
says that it is connected, but I cannot get on the net.  I ran the
network setup wizard on both my main PC and the laptop so that I could
get them to recognize the printer.  I clicked on "share Printer" on
both of them, but now I cannot print either.

HELP!!!

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Clarification of Answer by aht-ga on 04 Apr 2004 15:40 PDT

There is a likelihood that using the network setup wizard has changed
the WEP key settings on the wireless laptop.

Please start from the beginning of the process described above in the
original posts to set the WEP key in the laptop again. That is the
most likely cause of the problem.

To use the printers over the network (once your wireless connection is
fully functional again), you need to activate printer sharing (which
you have already done), then on the computer where the printer is
installed, do the following:

a. Go to Start>Control Panel>Printers
b. Right-click on the printer's icon, and select Sharing...
c. Change the setting to "Share this printer", and give it a useful
name, then click OK
d. In the other PCs, start up Windows Explorer
e. Go to My Network Places -> Microsoft Windows Network -> (your
network) -> (the host PC)
f. You should see your printer on the right-hand pane, right click on
it and select Connect...
g. You most likely will need to supply the driver disk at this point
for the Win98 machine; the WinXP machine should automatically receive
its driver from the host PC

Please let me know how this goes!

aht-ga
Google Answers Researcher

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Request for Answer Clarification by colan-ga on 04 Apr 2004 16:34 PDT

aht:

First...again...thanks so much...

I have made so much progress...BUT!

I have fixed the communication links with the wireless pc's and can
now access the internet again (whew!).

I followed your directions and I was able to set everything up. 
However, when I try to print a test, I am getting an error and it will
not print.  It appears that the item transfers o.k. to the base
machine (I can see the print job on the main machine), but when it
goes to print is gives a print error and will not make it to the
printer.

If you know an easy solution to this, I am all ears.  If not, I'll
just go ahead and lug my laptop over to the prrinter and reconnect the
cables.

Thanks again for all of your time.

Colan

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Clarification of Answer by aht-ga on 04 Apr 2004 18:52 PDT

This will be a little more difficult to debug. First, I am presuming
that you have previously installed the printer 'locally' on the
laptop, meaning that the laptop should already have the driver
installed. When you followed the above directions to 'Connect...' to
the shared printer, it should have installed it as 'XXXXXX on YYYYYYY'
where XXXXXX is the printer name, YYYYYYY is the host PC's name. Can I
presume that you are selecting that printer on your list of printers?

aht-ga:  First, thank you for taking the time to put things down with
such clarity.  After reading your detailed answers, I am very glad I
got your advice before trying to learn this all through trial and
error.  I plan on putting this through over the next few weeks and I
may need to get some clarification once I roll my sleeves up and dig
in.

Nonetheless, your answer was exactly what I was looking for.  Thank you very much.